Question about Dishwashers
SOURCE: Zanussi DE540X Dishwasher
I have the same problem. First fault was caused by poor workmanship on the assembly of the PCB. There is a relay (the largest component on the board) which was badly soldered and caused some arcing resulting in solder splattered around the plastic casing and a lost electrical connection. This relay switches the mains voltage on to the heater i.e. 240V around 8.5A for a 2kW heater. (26 ohms suggests a 2215W heater for the case mentioned). Re-soldering this connection solved the problem for about a year. Now the dishwasher is showing the same problem. I have tested the relay and it is operational, but does not seem to be turning on during a wash cycle. A new board costs around £100. Zanussi will not even provide the technical details to allow a home fix. I will post my finding if I get to the bottom of this problem. It may be to do with electrical temperature sensor. My hunch is the controlling PCB is cheaply made and will not last a reasonable lifetime. A dishwasher is in itself a very simple piece of equipment with only a few valves, a pump and a heater so should not give problems in its first five years of life subject to normal usage. I will not consider purchasing any Zanussi appliances in the future.
Posted on Jun 20, 2007
SOURCE: test bosch heating element
remove the kick plate at bottom of dishwasher, at the left leg there will be a wiring diagram. remove console and test element from there. diagram will show which wires to test
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
Not sure why you would want to remove the panel? When this problem occurs First try putting in diagnostic mode and going thru the cycles. Anyway the tech sheet will be located behind the panel this will walk you thru putting in diagnostic mode.
There is a series of 4 screws that hold the top portion on. These are located on the inside of the door and require a torx bit to remove. Remove the screws and then lift up and out on the cover to remove. There is not a lot of wire there so I usuall remove the lower panel also,same procedure just remove the screws and slide down slightly to remove this panel. You will have to plastic pcs that slip over the hinges at the bottom and these may fall off when removing the panel. To reassemble put lower panel on first and leave the top two screws out until the control portion is installed then put in the rest of the screws.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
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