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no you don't have to hook up both of the power terminals. but should have it hooked up so you get the proper power to the amp. use a disubution block with two 8 gauge wires.
do you know if the radio's rca jack's are good? have you ever had another amp in the car? if it worked before try new rca's from the radio to amp. recheck all connections from amp to speakers and make sure no wires fell off.
The "CUR" display means that the amp is drawing excessive current and the protection circuit is activating. Too low impedance or shorted speakers will cause the amp to draw excessive current.
The Alpine V12 is a Class D mono amp with only one set of speaker outputs. All versions, M301, M501, and M1001 are only stable to 2ohms. Assuming that all 6 of your connected subwoofers and speakers are 4ohm and they're all connected in parallel, the amp sees a .67 ohm load, far below it's rated impedance.
When brand new, the amp could probably operate at low to moderate volume levels without drawing excessive current. But as electronic components age, their tolerances change and they become less able to withstand excessive current or mismatched impedances.
I'd get a 4-channel amp and drive the 4" speakers off the front channels and the 6X9's off the rear channels. And just power the subs off the V12 making sure that they are connected to show a minimum load of 2ohms.
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.
its your fuse box. i would bypass the fuse box and wire this amp directly to the battery via monster cable. make sure you attach a 30wieght fuse to the monster cable that is running from the battery to your amp. ground the amp against the trunk. scrape the paint of a section and drill a hole in the trunk. use this for the ground for you amp. this will fix the no power issue.
I'm not specifically familiar with that model but I'm pretty sure the"CUR" is indicating under current or not enough current. what's happening is your amp is under load and doesn't have enough power so it shuts down rather than smoke. I would suggest you run heavier cable from the battery to the amp and add a giant cap so that when the amp surges the cap will compensate for the sudden draw. This is not a cheap fix but if you install heavy duty power cable and a quality giant capacitor (2 farad) you will be able to push the amp until your speakers catch fire and your amp will be fine.