Question about Washing Machines

1 Answer

Transmission problem Took the agitator off and the agitator shaft pulled right out of the transmission! Had been having a problem with it not spinning on spincycle and getting a burn smell. Started by taking the agitator off and that's what happened: the shaft came with it. Do I need an entirely new transmission? Can I set the shaft back in the transmission and reattach? I thought it was a bad belt because I could finally get it to spin on spincycle after opening and closing the lid numerous times and then it started squeaking really bad while spinning.

Posted by on

  • cardigon Jun 30, 2008

    The machine is a commercial (in a laundromat) Maytag mat12pdbaq

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 481 Answers

It sounds like a GE or Hotpoint washer. if so the transmission is bad and i would replace the machine. transmission is $175+

Posted on Jun 30, 2008

  • Mike Durland
    Mike Durland Jun 30, 2008

    maytag has a  similar type transmission as GE, but i have not had that problem with a maytag. i would still think that the transmission is bad. if you cannot snap the shaft back down in place then the retaining clip may be broken inside the trans. the transmission is fairly basic on the inside if you want to take off the side plate(if it has one) of the transmission and try to reinsert the shaft to save some money. just refill the transmission with 90w gear oil. the squealing could be caused by the bottom bearing down near the large pulley. special tools are required to replace this though. 

×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

The agitator works well during the wash cycle. When the drum spins, the agitator will not if the clothes touch the agitator. The water empties, but the agitator prevents the drum from spinning.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom as well as the agitator keeping the drum from spinning. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (15 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil in the transmission available at auto parts stores) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Jan 20, 2011 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Does not agitate unless pushed down on


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.

Following is a description of how to take them out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

Dec 12, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Ge frontload washer seems like it is not aggitating... what would be the problem???


Hello there:

The first thing to check when your GE washer is not agitating, is the belt. Let me tell you how to check the belt & the clutch with out having to take the washer apart.




The belt: Set the timer in the spin cycle and pull the timer knob to turn the washer on.
If the washer drains the water and then spins the way that it should, this tells you that the motor, belt & clutch are not the reason why your washer won't agitate.
A broken belt could be the reason your washer is not agitating or spinning.



The agitator: After making sure that the belt, motor & clutch are working ok, lets check the agitator.
The agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the transmission shaft.
Too much usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is not agitating.




The clutch: A bad clutch could also be the reason the washer won't agitate or spin. Usually when the clutch is bad the washer will be noisy, like when you have bad brakes on your car.


The transmission: The transmission could be the reason your washer is not agitating. A common problem with the transmission is oil leaking right on top of the motor pulley and the belt.
As you can see, there could be different reasons why your GE washer is not agitating. You just need to keep checking each part until you find the problem and replace the part responsible.

Oct 03, 2010 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My 2090 Kenmore model washing machine (serial #cj3302826) is slow on the spin cycle. If any clothes are on the agitator,it will not spin. Remove clothes off and along the edge, it will spin. Also, does the...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

As far as the agitator spinning during the spin cycle:

It's not supposed to. It may spin simply because of the oil in the gearcase turning the agitator shaft but it shouldn't be driven by the gearcase. See the following Whirlpool Service Manual on how the transmission / gearcase works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

What should happen is:

When the washer goes into spin mode, the gearcase reverses direction moving two plastic cams (Agitate Cams) together which push up against a spring which lifts the agitate shaft away from the agitate gear.

If the agitate cams (about $12.00) are worn (not necessarily broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/8") so that the agitator will spin along with the drum.

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

If you suspect the agitate cams:

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)



May 18, 2010 | Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Have a Kenmore series 90 washer. During spin


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. In actuality, the agitator will still spin somewhat due to the oil moving the shaft.

If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators (about 1/16"). We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom.

A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main

agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Apr 09, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Grinding gears when in spin mode When the washer went into rinse mode a loud sound from the gearbox happened. It sounds like the gears are grinding together and not syncing together. took out the clothes...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the following:

WHIRLPOOL PARTS SITE

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


MORE DETAILED WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It sounds as if the problem is in the transmission itself.

(It's not as bad as it sounds.)

If you're reasonably comfortable with basic tools (socket set, pliers/vice grips etc) getting to the transmission and taking it apart isn't too difficult and much less expensive than having a repair person charge $170 for a new transmission.

In any case, see the following for how to remove the transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE TUB.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=f4b39cb9484cdf1ec5d8d486fe9692d9

The first possibility is the Agitate Cams in the transmission. (Whirlpool part # 62580 / 81) (about $12)

These are two plastic pieces that lift the agitator shaft when the washer goes into spin mode.

If they are worn they may not lift the shaft high enough to keep it out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. See the above on how the transmission works.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace).

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil (available at most auto parts stores).

Remove the transmission cover 8 bolts.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams. EVEN IF THEY DON'T APPEAR BROKEN THEY MAY BE WORN ENOUGH TO CAUSE THE PROBLEM.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

While you have the transmission apart, I'd check the other cams and gears inside. There aren't that many.

As an aside, replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil on ours (we had basically the same problem) cost less than $30 vs $170.


Mar 28, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 90 series Model # 110.28902790, during the spin cycle the agitator start to spin and then hangs up for a moment then tries to spin again.It keeps repeating this process while making a...


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.28902790

Please see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same parts.


The problem points to a worn Agitate Cam.

Whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

The cam is a two piece plastic part that lifts a gear above the main agitate assembly in the transmission so that the agitator doesn't turn during the spin cycle.

We had the same problem. The cams had worn enough that they weren't lifting the gear (less than 1/16").

They aren't expensive at all but do require pulling the transmission.

See the following for a description of how to remove the transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the tub!!

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It may seem like a difficult job but it really isn't. It is a bet messy but it's a lot less expensive than a $170 transmission.


Nov 06, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer makes loud metalic clicking/grinding sound when washing and spinning Model number (110.15942401)


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.15942401

There are a few places to check in the washer.

1. The Clutch

2. The Brake system

3. The splines on the agitate shaft and / or agitator

4. The agitate cam and / or gear in the transmission.

Please see the following :

ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore operations and maintenance manual describing how the washer works and in particular how the neutral drain assembly works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

You'll be able to see on the Sears site, the internal construction of the transmission. The Agitate Cams and Neutral Drain assembly cogs are plastic and can wear / break over time.

When ours had a major noise / grinding problem when spinning, we tracked the problem to the agitate cams not lifting the agitate gear high enough (less than 1/16" above the gear on the agitate shaft. Replacing it cost less that $15 vs. $170 for a transmission.

If the Drive Brake, Clutch, agitator splines and agitator shaft seem OK, the problem points to the transmission.

If it appears to be the agitate cams, following is a description of how we replaced them.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Oct 07, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I need to replace the cam agit for this sear kenmore washer. is it a serviceable piece and if so, what tools do i need?


Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.
remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)


Sep 15, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

228 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Washing Machines Experts

Gerry Harvey
Gerry Harvey

Level 3 Expert

1456 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

70347 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

15109 Answers

Are you a Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...