a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You.have to check if the compresor is working or damage. Try starting direct the compresor, Generali should be the electric part outside the compresor just change at the electric parts and should work. If you send a picture of the position on the connectors I will help you to try the compressor
1) Failed compressor relay
2) Failed compressor
3) Failed component in the defrost system
4) Bad door gaskets
5) Failed door light switch
Questions to answer -
1) Is the compressor (large black domed item with three tubes (one stubbed) at the bottom back of the frig.) warm or hot? If cool, then you could have a failed relay inside the compressor enclosure. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall, locate where the wires go into the compressor terminal box. Remove the clip holding the cover, and pull the relay off the compressor. Inspect for evidence of burning. Replace if necessary and reinstall all covers. You should always hear a clicking sound when the compressor tries to start. If it does not start, and you hear it click again a few seconds later, then it's likely you have a failed compressor.
2) Was the condenser fan running? The condenser fan pushes rejected heat away from the condenser coil. If it's not running, it's hard on the compressor, and the refrigerator does not cool.
3) Was there thick ice buildup inside the louvers of the back wall of the freezer? Heavy ice buildup here is an indication of a failed defrost control or heater and requires further diagnosis to determine the problem. A knowledge of use of a volt-ohm meter is required, along with a willingness and ability to do some mechanical and electrical dis-assembly and test.
4) Was the fan running inside the freezer? Freezer fan should run when the compressor is running, but not during the defrost cycle (or it would slightly heat up the refrigerator.).
5) Look up my "Tips and Tricks" article on testing your door gaskets.
6) Open the door slightly and look inside as best you can. Is the light
on or off? Continue to open the door until you see the light go on to
confirm the light switch is working.
Following each of the above steps may not help you fix your unit, but will give you an indication of things to look for and describe when you post a request for help when trying top fix you refrigerator.
You will have a 60-90 fill cycle, then circulate, then another 60-90 fill, then on to ice making. When Ice making starts all remaining functions come on, such as the condenser fan, and compressor. Check for these functions after the initial fill/rinse/fill has finished. if the condenser fan comes on but the compressor does not, you very well may need a control board located behind the on/off switch panel. With constant heavy loads/usage, and or a dirty condenser coil the compressor relay solder joints often become weak and short open on the board, this can sometimes be fixed by just cleaning and re-soldering the relay joint on the board. Pleazer Appliance...
I am having trouble finding thesae parts in stock so you may need to get some local help. I noticed that your model has 220 volts ac what country are you located? I recommend that you also do a compressor windings test as below to insure that the compressor is worth buying the start relay components. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Hello - When was the last time you cleaned the condensers? You may do so by removing the toe grille and use extended vacuum attachment and condenser cleaning brush to remove dust buildup from condenser coils usually located on the left side underneath. If you hear the compressor running and if it is providing warm air then that means it is operating correctly and the sealed system is removing heat from the cabinet.Fan motor/evaporator may be the primary issue. However, if you do not hear the compressor and the unit is blowing room temperature then the unit may possibly have a sealed system leak, faulty compressor or overload relay. Contact a professional to move forward accurately from this point.
I believe what is happening here is a defective start relay and overload. Right now I would pull refrigerator away from the wall and unplug. Next remove the cover over the compressor feel top of the compressor and if it is not possible to keep your hand there from heat tells me the compressor is trying to start. Keep unplugged until replacing the Start Relay Kit below.Most times the compressor that begins to do these symptoms can be fixed by replacing the=>
W10189190 Relay and Overload Kit These parts can be found by removing the rear cover near floor and then pulling the cover on the side of the compressor. Click Here=> ASD2522WRB02 Unit PartsIn that photo is a compressor top left of photo. Number location 13 is the cover of the part I am talking about and location 12 in that photo is the start relay and overload. If you have trouble I will be here to assist you, Thanks Sea Breeze
the a/c pressure switch is located to the left side of the condenser radiator, as you stand in front of the vehicle. you may have to remove the bumper in order to get access to this switch.
there are 2 relays dealing with the a/c , numbers 16 and 17, on the relay plate at the drivers knees, the plastic panel will have to come down. 16 is the clutch relay and 17 is a/c control module.
hope this is of some help
Check under the hood in the fuse/relay panel. Lift the cover and look inside the cover for the correct location for the fuse/relay controlling the cooling fans. Either the fuse will be blown or the relay is bad. Use a test light to check the fuse for power on both sides,if you have power on the fuse then the relay has gone bad. Hope this will help you.
Good day, Four possibilities. 1. The condenser cooling fan motor located on the bottom back of the machine between the compressor, and box condenser has failed, and needs replaced. It should be running if the fan in the freezer is running. 2. Loss of refrigerant or a restriction in the system. Testing limited to a qualified tech only. 3. The combo relay overload mounted on the compressor( under a cover) has failed. Most appliance parts houses will be glad to test them for you. 4. Locked compressor. Tech only solution.
PS. If the machine is less than 5 years old, the compressor is under warranty. Contact your selling dealer.
Check to make sure condenser fan is working (this is the fan located near the compressor). It should be running at the same time the compressor is running. If it isn't, make sure there is power to it by testing with a voltmeter. If there is, replace the fan. If the condenser fan is working, clean the coils and check the evap fan.