Very excited when I recieved my amp and subs. Only one problem, the amp will not power on. I assured myself that the battery to amp wires are powered up. Yes, it is throwin energy. The fuse must be good, all wires are making proper contact. But, I noticed two 30 amp fuses on the side of the amp. Will the amp not power on whatsoever if a fuse is blown or will it still have a light flashing or something.
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you need another reciever/amp to power that sub, because that denon reciever is designed for a powered sub,. if you have another old reciever/amp laying around, you can connect the sub out from the denon into an auxillary input of any old reciever/amp, (switched to that input) with speaker wires from old reciever/amp to the passive sub
It sounds like you are describing an earth loop problem. I won't go into detail in this post, but try an isolation test first. disconnect everything from the reciever except the sub and try connecting say a BATTERY powered mp3 player or cd player to minimise connections to the electrical mains earth. you could also isolate things by taking your sub to a friend's house and trying it on their system. If it is an earth loop use a process of elimination to find out which two pieces of equipment causes the earth loop. then apply filtering. you can buy earth loop isolation transformers for about AU$26 and I've used one on my sub myself. Theyhave RCA (phono)plugs on each end and they connect inline with the signal cable to the sub amp.
as for the thumping sound it might be the speaker protection circuitry cutting off the amp to protect the subwoofer speaker from damaged. This might be triggered if the earth loop sound is causing the sub amp to overload and clip.
Failing this there might be a dried out overheated electro capacitor in the amp circuit causing the hum. Hav a chat to your local electronics person, who should be able to spot it! Hope this puts you on the right track Happy Hunting!
Here are all the possible problems which can turn on your ABS light.
C1101 Battery voltage over volt: 18V or more ○ ○ BR - 69 C1102 Battery voltage low volt: 9.5V or less ○ ○ BR - 69 C1200 FL wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66 C1201 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67 C1202 - No signal: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68 C1203 FR wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66 C1204 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67 C1205 - No signal excite: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68 C1206 RL wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66 C1207 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67 C1208 - No signal excite: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68 C1209 RR wheel sensor: open or short to ground ○ ○ BR - 66 C1210 - Range/Performance: speed jump or damaged exciter ○ ○ BR - 67 C1211 No signal: air-gap error or wrong excite ○ ○ BR - 68 C1604 ECU hardware: ECU internal or valve failure ○ ○ BR - 70 C2112 Valve relay: valve relay or fuse failure ○ ○ BR - 70 C2402 Motor-Electrical: open or short to battery, motor relay, fuse or motor lock fail ○ ○ BR - 71 C1503 TCS switch failure δ ○ C1605 CAN Hardware failure δ ○ BR - 71 C1610 CAN Bus off failure δ ○ BR - 71 C1611 EMS Time-out failure δ ○ BR - 71 C1612 TCM Time-out failure δ ○ BR - 71 C1613 TCM Un-matching failure δ ○ BR - 71 C2227 Brake disc overheat δ ○ C1274 G-Sensor signal fail (only 4WD) ○ ○ BR - 72 C1275 G-Sensor open or short to ground (only 4WD) ○ ○ BR - 72
You'll need a scanner which is compatible with Hyundai's ABS system to retrieve any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored in its computer. Any time the ABS light comes on, there's a DTC stored in its computer - that code will tell you where the problem exists. Then you can go from there.
ok here is how it goes power wire from the battery all the way to amp..then ground wire from amp to a good ground on car then the remote wire which you have to run from the amp to the back of your stereo which in most cases is blue then hook subs from the sub box to the amp
if you wanted to use your receiver as your controller and source then try to find out the receivber has got a bridge (jumper) between the pre-amp stage and the power amp stage. if your receiver does not have that, then you can just connect your receiver tape record out to one of your DSP inputs. subwoofers, the DSP has got a sub woofer out connector. you can use that (RCA type) to your sub woofers. put in series because DSP has got only one output for sub. or, you can connect your subs directly to the mains speakers, parallel connections. maybe one sub to your left and the other to your right channel.
Is the amp being fed directly from the head unit's RCA preamp outputs or is it being fed by another amp's preamp outputs? Try temporarily wiring up a speaker you know is good in place of the sub and see if anything changes.
As i read your problem i can recommend you that connecting each of the hifonics amp to each hifonics sub with the same specs by getting the specs in interfacing the two or you can simply look to the output of the amp and the input of the sub and find a suitable plug that fits to them.
In the case if you want to run each hamp to individually run each sub but sharing 3 farad capacitor: what i can suggest is that you connect in parallel one connecting wire of each input or ouput of the amp or sub. Its like connecting a connector from each of the input or output of the amp or sub to one leg of the capacitor, and connecting two wires to the other leg, one is being connected to the amp or sub and the other wire is connected to the other amp or sub.
In the case of putting a circuit breaker at the car battery: what i can suggest is that you find an appropriate circuit breaker that fits the specs of the car battery then connect it in series on the positive supply or read the specs of the circuit breaker before you connect it to the battery. Having a circuit breaker is like having a fuse but with special advantages in favor of the circuit breaker.
In the case of having power to the amps you can run one power wire to the amps by dividing the power wire into two, one connected to the amp and the other wire to the other amp. Then you can connect each amp and sub in series individually by connecting one wire b/w amp and sub. I hope i solved your problem