Very excited when I recieved my amp and subs. Only one problem, the amp will not power on. I assured myself that the battery to amp wires are powered up. Yes, it is throwin energy. The fuse must be good, all wires are making proper contact. But, I noticed two 30 amp fuses on the side of the amp. Will the amp not power on whatsoever if a fuse is blown or will it still have a light flashing or something.
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when you car is running, it charges the battery somewhat. So the voltage problem is not a problem. The red light means the amp is going into ''Protect Mode". This usually happens when something is wrong with the amp. Usually the amp is getting hot. Check all of you connectiong and check the final impedance of the subs. Make sure the amp can handle the impedance of the subs. If you need anymore help, message me.
It should not have affected anything unless the amp gets too hot due to being bridged or the ground and a power source touched each other which would have sparked and put the some amps in protection mode unless it has a fuseable link then it will blow the fuse such as the 12v battery or the power on wire which is blue and is called the (remote wire).
When adding (Amplified Powered Equipment) to your car you have to in most cases:
What kind of sub and amp do you have?
Make sure that your battery terminals are tighten.
Depending on the size battery thats already in your vehicle you will need to Upgrade your battery size with about 800 Cranking Amps or add a Capacitor depending on the wattage of the amp
Alternators are a big issue as well due to amp outputs in your case it shouldn't unless your light is slightly visible on the dash.
ok here is how it goes power wire from the battery all the way to amp..then ground wire from amp to a good ground on car then the remote wire which you have to run from the amp to the back of your stereo which in most cases is blue then hook subs from the sub box to the amp
Power caps store power from the battery and they feed constant power to the amp so you dont get no drainage! this could be one reason..
have you bridged both subs and wat gauge wire are you using.
these amps can only handle one bridged sub at 4ohms and this amp is recommended that u use 8gauge or higher. if your running to subs i normally reccomend using 4 gauge power wire as you get more rms power feed to the amp
you can get a power cap or anyother accersory cheap online at my suppliers.. caraudiosecurity << click to enter >> hope this helps and please rate me :)
you are going to need an amp that can supply the right amount of rms power to make it sound good. these sony subs are rated for 380 watts rms. so in order to find an amp that will supply two, you must multiply that figure by two. so you will need an amp that can supply around 500 to 750 watts continuously (or rms). also you are going to want an amp that is either class d or class ab rated. these amps are built to push subwoofers exclusively and will give you the best efficiency and sound out of your subs. you will also want to get an amplifier is a monoblock amp, and not a stereo amplifier. make sure the amp can put out that rms rating at 2 ohms as two 4 ohm speakers equal 2 ohms wired in parallel. i have a kenwood kac9152d that puts out about 2000 watts max at 2 or 1 ohms (900 watts rms) that i used with my two sony xplod 10's for about 2 years. it was kick ***! now i dont know if you need that much power but they will handle it as long as you dont push them too hard for long periods of time, otherwise you might end up blowing them up! (depending on the box size that is, and the quality of it as well...)
i have years of car audio installation experience and can help with setting up and wiring any mobile entertainment system you can imagine. may i ask what kind of music you listen to and what kind of box do you have for these subwoofers?
You should go with a 4 guage power wire kit. If your amp is going in and out
at high volume than that is your problem. 8 guage will work but, if you want
the proper current which is your power from your battery, going to your amp
than I would recomend the 4 guage amp install kit or just the main power
wire coming from your battery. If you would like contact me and I will send you
to a very good sight with all the info you will ever need for car amplifire installation.
Is the amp being fed directly from the head unit's RCA preamp outputs or is it being fed by another amp's preamp outputs? Try temporarily wiring up a speaker you know is good in place of the sub and see if anything changes.
As i read your problem i can recommend you that connecting each of the hifonics amp to each hifonics sub with the same specs by getting the specs in interfacing the two or you can simply look to the output of the amp and the input of the sub and find a suitable plug that fits to them.
In the case if you want to run each hamp to individually run each sub but sharing 3 farad capacitor: what i can suggest is that you connect in parallel one connecting wire of each input or ouput of the amp or sub. Its like connecting a connector from each of the input or output of the amp or sub to one leg of the capacitor, and connecting two wires to the other leg, one is being connected to the amp or sub and the other wire is connected to the other amp or sub.
In the case of putting a circuit breaker at the car battery: what i can suggest is that you find an appropriate circuit breaker that fits the specs of the car battery then connect it in series on the positive supply or read the specs of the circuit breaker before you connect it to the battery. Having a circuit breaker is like having a fuse but with special advantages in favor of the circuit breaker.
In the case of having power to the amps you can run one power wire to the amps by dividing the power wire into two, one connected to the amp and the other wire to the other amp. Then you can connect each amp and sub in series individually by connecting one wire b/w amp and sub. I hope i solved your problem