Question about Nikonos V 35mm Point and Shoot Camera

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Nikonos v film will not advance I have rewound the film and reloaded and it all looks correct but will not advance to number 1 help

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  • newquay 2 Jun 30, 2008

    Have tried it but still no joy I think I might have to take it to an expert? I don't think I would be competent to strip it down

  • newquay 2 Jun 30, 2008

    had a fiddle and it is now responding so thank you very much for your advice but LED lights not showing up in viewfinder. As you can see I know zilch about cameras what am I doing wrong? By the way where are you situated?

  • newquay 2 Jun 30, 2008

    Hi again, now on number 4, although don't know if it has taken a photo or not, how do I tell? camera set at A new batteries new film Wish it just had an off on switch no sign of LEDs does it take a time for the batteries to charge if so do you leave the shutter switch to the on position or not Wish you were in the UK near to me. Why do they make manuals so difficult to understand from a novice point of view. I need an idiots guide you know do this do that not tech stuff I cannot understand once again thanks for your help in this

  • newquay 2 Jul 01, 2008

    Hi Kevin we go down to cornwall every year one thought could the shutter be stuck I can't hear a clik or anything to tell me if it is taking a piture or not, not I think , if the release lever is now working does that mean power is getting through?

  • newquay 2 Jul 02, 2008

    Hi Kevin back again tried the above, shutter not opening is there anything else I can try thank you

  • newquay 2 Jul 08, 2008

    Hi Kevin I will try and find out how much it will cost for a service over here, and compare if you can give me an idea. I don't think it is water damage the inside is pristine

  • ryanMR2 Feb 26, 2009

    I have the same problem with the film advance lever being stuck but I am pretty handy with electronics and tools. What would I need to do to fix this?

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  • Master
  • 667 Answers

One thing that can happen with the V is that the oring on the release lever gets dry. This can cause the release to stick in the down position. If it was in the down position and you tried to advance the wind arm, it may be jammed internally. The only way to fix this problem requires dis-assembly of the camera. There are sites with info on this or I can help you here. If this might not be the problem, try releasing the shutter in the M90 mode.

Posted on Jun 30, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Kevin Pettit
    Kevin Pettit Jun 30, 2008

    Just in case you have trouble finding someone to work on it, I have been repairing Nikonos for over 20 years and I do have new o-rings still.

  • Kevin Pettit
    Kevin Pettit Jun 30, 2008

    The LEDs won't light until the counter is at 1 or higher and the camera set on A or the numerical settings, M90 and B are mechanical modes and the power is off in those setting regardless of the counter (same switch)

    I am located in Columbus OH


  • Kevin Pettit
    Kevin Pettit Jun 30, 2008

    Fresh batteries should provide instant power. There is a couple of things to check. The batteries sit in the battery cap so that positive is up, the plus side into the camera. Something else that can be wrong is the battery box inside the camera is plastic. I have seen them box break, so the contact does not make a good connection to the batteries themselves.

    If you think the user manuals are difficult, you should try reading one of Nikon's service manuals

    not related to the problem, but I have been to Newquay. Bought my first set of brass darts at Studs Sports, 3560, in 1978, still have them too, Cheers, Kevin


  • Kevin Pettit
    Kevin Pettit Jul 01, 2008

    No, even the it is fairly quiet in operation, you should hear some action from the shutter. You can check the mechanical operation with the film door open and the pressure plate flipped up to exposure the shutter curtains. Use m90 or B to do this.

    The power could be failing at several points, the release lever movement only insures manual functions, (if the shutter is functional)


  • Kevin Pettit
    Kevin Pettit Jul 07, 2008

    Not really, it sounds like mechanical failure or even worse, water damage. If you are not handy with small tools, a shop will be your best bet. Postage to the states still may be cheaper for similar service, just longer in turn around time

  • Kevin Pettit
    Kevin Pettit Jul 09, 2008

    For service and repairs on a Nikonos V, you would be looking at 75$ (38 £) + postage

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There is not any in camera developing. This is not a digital camera it is a film camera wherein we put a film cartridge with a specified number of shots into the camera then thread the film leader to the takeup spool, close the camera advance the film a few frames, then we are ready to shoot. After the specified number of shots, 24 or 36, film is rewound into the canister, camera back opened film canister removed then taken to the lab for processing.

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My Nikon N75 says error and there is a flashing circle with a dot in the middle when i look through the lens.... What does this mean?!


If the LCD panel shows "E" then the film isn't loaded properly. If the LCD panel shows "ERR" and "E" blinking, then the film is not correctly advanced. If the LCD panel shows a blinking "E" when the exposure meter is turned on, then film remains in the camera after it has been rewound. In all cases, reload film.

If it's not one of those cases, or if the problem persists, please reply to this post giving further details.

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Film advance lever stuck. Changed batteries but can not move the film advance lever.


Hi fmerlin, If you have film in it you may need to remove the film to free up the advance lever. Go into a closet cover under a blanket etc. Also, Walmart and most drug stores have a big change bag that they could do it for you. With film out it still will not advance it will need to go to Nikon.

Aug 18, 2010 | Nikonos V 35mm Point and Shoot Camera

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Ttl auto does not work


Digital Camera Fully Compatible, Newly Developed S-TTL System "S-TTL" enables TTL auto shooting by an external strobe for a digital SLR camera as well as for a point & shoot digital camera.
INON S-TTL auto strobe supports any manufactures' model providing highly accurate exposure control.
Film camera era without strobe selection problem TTL stands for "Through The Lens" and TTL auto strobe system controls flash amount to provide correct exposure based on calculation by camera's internal sensor metering reflecting strobe light from a subject through the lens. This TTL system meters actual light amount reflecting from a subject providing accurate exposure.
When we start with the history of underwater TTL auto strobe, underwater camera?"NIKONOS V" released in 1984 was the first to provide automatic TTL flash control for underwater strobe SB-102, SB-103 succeeded by NIKONOS V compatible underwater strobes form other manufactures. The 5 pin electrical sync connector for NIKONOS V is most popular and widely adopted to connect an underwater strobe and underwater film camera (underwater camera/housing).
A film SLR camera has flexibility to select an underwater strobe. As far as housing has NIKONOS type electrical sync connector and properly wired, automatic TTL flash control is usable with any TTL auto strobe like Nikon SB-105, INON Z-220, Z-22 connected via electrical sync cable.
NIKONOS type 5 pin electrical sync connector and NIKONOS V with INON Z-22 strobe
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Film camera compatible strobe is not usable for a digital camera!? Underwater TTL strobe circumstances have been drastically altered with the spread of digital camera among divers. Some underwater housing for digital SLR camera has NIKONOS type electrical 5 pin sync connector as same as film camera housing. Since the housing has same NIKONOS type sync connector, existing film camera compatible underwater strobe has been considered compatible with a digital SLR camera via 5 pin sync cable but happened to experience error message on the digital camera or blackout on an image even the strobe worked. Why this happened?
This is because automatic TTL strobe system difference between a film camera and a digital camera.

The film TTL auto system makes single flash while digital TTL auto system employs pre-flash type making two to three flashes. Film TTL auto strobe system starts firing at the same time the shutter opens and reflecting strobe light from a subject is recived at a film. The reflecting light on the film is metered by the sensor to determine when to cease firing for correct exposure. This process takes only about 1/1000 second.
In contrast, digital TTL auto strobe system can not calculate adequate exposure based on reflecting light from a subject since image sensor (CCD/CMOS) reflectivity is comparably low comparing to a film. So digital TTL strobe system gives preliminary flash for very short period of time (pre-flash) just before the shutter opens metering reflecting light from a subject by the sensor to calculate necessary amount of light for correct exposure and starts emitting main flash at the same time the shutter opens. Canon E-TTL and Nikon i-TTL employs this system.

When we connect conventional film camera compatible TTL strobe to pre-flash type digital SLR via sync cable, the strobe makes full dump by pre-flash signal then the shutter opens before the strobe has been fully charged resulting in quite under exposed image only with ambient light. Even two time flash compatible strobe like INON Z-220 strobe, does not fully support a digital TTL and force to use Manual flash mode.





Film SLR:
A strobe starts firing at the same time the shutter opens and quenches firing when correct exposure has been obtained.
A film compatible TTL strobe connected to a pre-flash type digital SLR via electrical cable flashes does not support TTL auto exposure resulting in synchronization only with first pre-flash or totally uncontrollable.
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The birth of digital fully compatible S-TTL S-TTL auto compatible INON D-2000 strobe and Z-240 strobe works in TTL auto mode by simply setting their main dial to S-TTL position. A film camera seems to depend more on photographer's skill, experience and feel since the camera does not allow checking images on site. A digital camera allows us to check images right after shooting and enable to try to shoot again as much as we like. And high capacity memory card further allows to shoot hundreds of images. The digital camera makes entry level of underwater photography getting down and nowadays more people buy a digital SLR camera and underwater housing even they have just started underwater photography. However underwater photography gets more difficult because underwater strobe does not work in TTL auto.
INON is among the first to support digital TTL auto system with "S-TTL" auto mode equipped D-2000 strobe and Z-240 strobe.
The proper name of S-TTL is "Optical Synch TTL". S-TTL enables to perform in TTL auto exposure as same as genuine TTL strobe from camera manufacture, based on camera's built-in flash light to use as a signal to be transmitted to a strobe. S-TTL uses digital camera's built-in flash light not as a light source but as like a controller to trigger S-TTL strobe.
The built-in flash of a digital camera makes weak flash (pre-flash) before main-flash to calculate exposure. This pre-flash is transmitted to S-TTL strobe to control the strobe to make pre-flash to a subject. The reflecting light from the subject goes through the camera's master lens to an image sensor then a processor calculates main flash light amount for correct exposure.?Finally the built-in flash makes main-flash which is transmitted to the S-TTL strobe to cause main-flash of the S-TTL strobe.


Digital camera's built-in flash lights are transmitted via an optical fiber to the
S-TTL strobe to make pre-flash and main-flash instead of the built-in flash.
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1 Answer

I can't get my film to rewind in my camera. Help!!!


  1. there s a small silver button on the bottom that releases the film so it can be rewound
  2. the rewind crank is on the left side on top, a little are flips out to allow you to crank it. Turn in direction of the arrow until you feel the tension release.
If you already did this and you feel hat there is still film in the camera the next question is
  1. did you load the film correctly - if not the film did not advance and thus no tension when you rewound the film
  2. is the film broken off inside the camera - too much pressure when rewinding the film without releases the clutch (little silver button)

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Your film is already rewound (if I understood you correctly). Your camera is beeping because the film is rewound and there is no film for the camer to take the photo on since it has been rewound.

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Well, I'm not a camera repairman, but it sounds to me (and probably to you too) that the electronics are damaged or perhaps there's dust in the contacts inside. I also have an MZ-50. There's so many electronics involved and they don't age so gracefully. I would consider buying another one off eBay or you can get a ZX-30 (same as MZ-30) for $75 from Blue Moon Camera & Machine with a 1 year warranty (parts and labor). The best way would be, in my opinion, to get a manual, mechanical camera from the 1970s and put a good lens on it. Those seem to last forever. No electronics to worry about. Advance and rewind the film manually. You can use a digital camera as a light meter to set the aperture and shutter speed. I'm thinking of going this route when my MZ-50 finally conks out.

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