Power Problem??? - Maybe Battery Related or On/Off Switch
I am at a loss as to what to do?
I've looked thru the posts and have not been able to find a problem similar to mine.
I have a Canon
Digital Rebel / EOS-300D... which - when you turn it on - sometimes
works & sometimes does not. I KNOW it is not possessed by the Devil
(even tho it feels like it might be)
I thought initially that it was the battery, so bought another battery
- charged it fully and inserted it into the Camera - alas, it made no
It is almost as if the camera does not recognise that there is a battery in it.
I turn the ON switch to "on", and get nothing (even with a fully
charged battery) - no red power up flashing light, no date/time display
and LED display... Nuthin'?
Then, I could try tuning it on and off 1, 2, 3, 15 times - sometimes it
will actually work and turn 'on' correctly.... and sometimes not.
I have also cleaned the terminals on both batteries & inside the Camera, to make sure it is not just a dust problem. SO the only other thing I can think of, is that it may be the On/Off switch its self?
I would really appreciate any suggestions or help anyone can provide.
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Re: Power Problem??? - Maybe Battery Related or On/Off...
Intermittent problems are often caused by the door switches - the battery door and card door both cause switches to activate. If it's been dropped on a corner, or the doors aren't closing completely, it'll not come on at all. Squeeze the area around those 2 doors to see if it comes on. If not, there's a loose connection inside that'll have to be opened up.
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Are you sure the battery is being drained during this process? That would be a major draw from something, but then you said "...suddenly full power again,". It sounds more like a connection or a terminal working loose at times, not able to pass normal voltage. You sure need a voltmeter, my friend.
I think I would want to have that new alternator tested again, just to make sure it is not defective. A lot of aftermarket parts are turning up like that. Did you replace the alternator and battery because this condition was present? Do you know your battery cables and ground points are all good and secure, and corrosion free? You might want to double check all the grounds you can find- the battery negative cable, the engine to body strap, or cable, maybe an engine and computer harness ground point-look around the top of the engine for a ground wire coming out of the engine wire harness and going to ground at a nearby bolt. Also check all alternator connections.
If you have to keep looking, look at the power side of the power distribution scheme. From the battery, power goes to the Power Distribution Center, maybe called a junction box or junction block...it is where the fuse and relay block under the hood receives power, both from the battery and the tie-in from the alternator, and then distributes it to the major circuits for the car. With all your symptoms, it sounds like the problem is not far from the battery in the power distribution. Sayeth Dr. monte. Good luck.
NO.. complete power loss would be caused by a bad battery, a bad connection of the battery cables either at the battery or at the starter or at the ground for the neg. cable., (probably the cause). More info please.. how did this happen? was it while you were driving ? Post a comment here and give us more info.
The problem could be related to service bulletin. It refers to check for loss of power to the transmission shift solenoids. This defaults the transmission to second gear. The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission solenoid power supply circuit. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system. If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device, and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. With the ignition switch in the run position, test for battery voltage at the circuit fuse in the transmission solenoid power supply circuit. If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens, else, test for continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch. If NO continuity is between the fuse and the ignition switch, repair the open in that circuit. If you have continuity between the fuse and the ignition switch, the most likely cause is the ignition switch. Replace the ignition switch. If you do need to replace any of your car parts this site looks like it has cheap prices, free shipping and great reviews http://www.buyautoparts.com/
If Your phone turns off on its own, then it means there is something cutting off the power supply while it is at work. Most likely the battery is sagging inside the unit hereby causing the power to fail at some interval. I will advice You prop or pad the battery, before You do that, i suggest you open the battery cover, remove the battery, then you use a dry piece of cloth to clean the metallic sheets that is inside the phone(terminals) then you scratch off the surface of the metals on the battery with a screwdriver, do not scratch it too hard. Then you cut and fold a little paper to pad the battery to sit well inside its compartment. Then you power on the phone. This time take not of it, it will not power off itself anymore.