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The OPEN is to be used when the air temperature is cool enough, not to have to use the AC. When it's open, the fan continues to operate and pulls cool air in from the outside and circulates it inside the room. Generally, this is only used at night, when temperatures are milder and there's less humidity. When it's CLOSED, the AC is in cooling mode and only the inside air is used to cool and is exhausted as needed. Hot, humid days & nights are when it should remain closed.
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It could be that it is not charged correctly. Check the insulated copper
line outside if it is sweating and the condensor is discharging hot air, then the ac is doing all that it can. Check the evaporator inside to see
if the drain has condensate coming out of it.
Getting the heat out of the attic is a good idea, but you must have enough make-up air in the attic for the fan. If you do not have enough
make up air, it will start to draw air from inside the house. One way to check this is if you have a gas water heater and or furnace. If you put
a flame by the exhaust pipe in the basement and it blows it out, then you now have a backdraft problem.
Run the AC withoutthe fan, my real guess is the unit is not properly
charged or you do not have a big enough AC unit.
If the out door fan keeps running and the compressor cycles off that would be the overload in the compressor.
What keeps the windings cool is the refrigerant back to the compressor.
For the overload to cycle it would have to be either not enough cooling back to the compressor or high amp draw, which could be the metering device (txv or orifice) or low on charge, or other things would be a bad capacitor, sometimes a bad start relay not staying open, when compressor gets up to speed or anything causing the compressor to draw high amps.
To check the refrigerant, he needs to check the superheat at the compressor it should be appoximately 12° to15°, and next time the compressor goes off if you shut the power off and feel the top of the compressor and if it's hot 130° or higher it's probably refrigerant.
When ever you hear a buzzing like you are hearing means one thing one of the fuses on the outside disconnect box is bad. Only getting 1/2 the power. Find the bad fuse and get the same size and will be good to go. ken
by the outside unit, you will have a shutoff. pull out the shutoff, and unscrew the cover. 2 cylinder like fuses are inside. It is likely that one or both are bad. When you turn on the AC and the outside fan does not turn on... this is likely this is the solution.
Turn Tsat to fan to see if inside unit will come on. If it does Tstat needs replaced. If not it is fan motor or fan relay. Possible cap. Do you here the fan relay come in. If it is a Good man unit it is time delay and you wont here it. Need to know your make of unit. Rusty
F1, F2, and F3 are the strength of the fan blowing the air conditioner. F1 circulates the least amount of air, F3 the most. I generally find that if the air conditioner isn't getting the job done on F1, F2 will do it. I typically only use F3 if I just want to circulate air fast in my place for awhile. As far as what is "better" with closed vent or open, that depends on what you want to do. If you are using air conditioning on a hot day, then vent closed is better because it will cool only air circulating in your place. Vent open will allow fresh air in from outside, and if it's a really hot day, the air conditioner might have a harder time cooling off the fresh air than the circulating air inside your place (as it's continually being cooled repeatedly by your air conditioner).
The cooling coil is more than likely iced over stopping the air circulation. Put the fan control in the on position and turn the cooling to off. After an hour or so the ice will clear from the coil and air circulation will be re-established. Then return to cooling and leave the fan control in the on position when in the cooling mode. This will provide air circulation to melt any ice from coil during the off cycle.