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You need the dryer checked with a volt meter point to point to see where you are loosing the voltage. This must be done with the power on and is dangerous for someone who has no background in this type of troubleshooting. If the unit has a circuit diagram that you can read, you need to check for voltage on the circuit board. This unit operates on 240 volts and can cause serious injury if the powered terminals are touched. If there is voltage on the circuit board that going to the heating element, the board is probably good.
I think you have done about as much as you can, and maybe it is time to call a service company.
did you check the heating elements, check to see if you have continuity through the elements. If you do they are good. unplug the wires to the elment because you may get feedback through the wires. I hope this helps
You didn't mention checking the "cycling thermostat". The two large terminals will be closed, and the two small ones should ohm out around 250 ohms. You also need to check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. You could have one of the two breakers thrown. Here is the cycling thermostat in case you find it bad. Keep me posted on your findings.
in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac
there is thermal fuse, Hi limit, and thermistor. the thermistor should have continuity at room temp I don't know what resistence(ohms) it should have. Most units I have seen provide a schematic and trouble shooting guide taped under the control panel for service personal.
you may have several problems, first, check the thermal cut-off with a meter(continuity) at the side top or the heating element. if not beep or mesure "0" on the display then is bad, change it as a kit#279816 part# at Sears. if is good(it beeps) then check the heating element for ohm about 10 to 12ohms. if it reads "0" then is bad, part#279838. if is good then check continuity on the thermal fuse at the blower housing(a white 2prong part) if it not beep then change ir part#3392519. all parts at Sears Website or Sears Service Center. good luck to you.
Check thermistor with ohm meter, make sure you unplug unit first, make sure wires are removed from thermistor or you will read ohms thru the wiring. If thermistor checks ok, the you have a relay board problem. replace power board.
thermal fuse kit.it is blowing due to improper ventilation.their is a clog somewhere from dryer to where dryer vents outside.thermal fuse is located at top of your elemnt cage.you will replace the thermal fuse and your high limit fuse at the bottom of the elemnt cage.but have your venting checked or swept out.
AS LONG AS YOU GET READING THE IS GOOD ,NO READING AND THE PART IS BAD,TRY TO GET ONE OF THE TERMINAL OFF THE HEATER COIL AND YOU STILL CAN TEST IT THAT WAY,MORE THEN LIKEY IT IS THE HEAT ELEMENT BECAUSE EVERTHING TEST GOOD RIGHT?HOPR THIS HELPS,THANKS-MIKE