Been trying to disconnect that cable to no avail, very secure, tried force
Any suggestions on disconnecting cable, dont want to snap it. the end is thick plastic about 1 -1 1/4 inch W by about 1/4 inch H. looks like holes extend out on each side of cable on the adapter part but see no screws, all white plastic like rest of adapter. been yanking & oulling to no avail. i am 270 lbs. so are u sure this is ok to disconnect.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi anonymous, this not an easy procedure for the do it yourself type person, I would suggest taking it to your local dealer or reputable shop, call around for best price should be around $150. But if your willing to give it a try here is the short version: remove necessary parts of the exhaust system to gain acess to the transmission side cover, next back off jam nut and turn in threads of cable end, remove clutch lever and cable end, cut all try straps securing cable, remove tranny side cover, remove ball and ramp mechanism, remove clutch cable end. Your going to need snap ring pliers. Good luck
double posted, with 1999 added.
the FSM says dont reuse steering wheel bolts.. (unique)
here is an online quote to get to the combo switch
Removal & Installation
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
WARNING(bags can kill, my comment)
Wait two minutes for the airbag system reserve capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service.
From below the steering column, remove the three screws that secure the lower steering column shroud to the multi-function switch mounting housing.
Using hand pressure, push gently inward on both sides of the upper shroud near the parting line between the upper and lower shrouds to release the snap features that secure the two shroud halves together.
Remove both the upper and lower shrouds from the steering column.
Remove the Steering Control Module (SCM) from the steering column.
Remove the two screws that secure the left multifunction switch to the SCM .
Disengage the two retaining tabs , next to the screw mounts that secure the left multi-function switch to the SCM.
Disconnect the left multi-function switch from the SCM.
Position the left multi-function switch onto position on the Steering Control Module (SCM) .
Engage the two retaining tabs, next to the screw mounts that secure the left multi-function switch and firmly snap into place.
Install the two screws that secure the left multifunction switch to the SCM. Tighten the screws to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
Position the lower steering column shroud to the underside of the steering column.
Install the three screws that secure the lower steering column shroud to the multi-function switch mounting housing. Tighten the screws to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
Position the upper column shroud over the steering column with the hazard warning switch button inserted through the hole in the upper shroud.
Align the snap features on the upper and lower shrouds and apply hand pressure to snap them together.
Very easy to do. Take the old one off and you will see how easy. At the carburetor, the cable will be secured by a bracket. Unfasten it there, and then on the carb. roll the throttle back to wide open throttle, cable will be loose, lift it out of the groove it rides in and slide the end out of the throttle lever. At the firewall where cable goes to the gas pedal, there will be a rubber grommet that cable goes through. Just punch the rubber grommet out of the firewall. Now on the gas pedal attachment, many different ways to secure it. Some just snap into a hole on back of gas pedal. If you can't see how to disconnect, take the gas pedal off-usually held to floor by two screws-and turn the pedal around to see how the cable connects. Once disconnected, the cable can be removed, usually drawn out of firewall on the engine side. Good luck. Now the next time you have to replace it (like 25 years, !) you will know how to do it. Keep the old Honda running!
Use the pull cord and disconnect the opener from the door. Operate the opener and let the carrier slide back away from the door. Is the carrier moving smoothly when disconnected? Next, lift the door by hand from the bottom to the top. Is it moving smoothly? If not, lubricate the axles of all the rollers on both sides of the door. Check the cable pulleys at the top sides of the door channel, lubricate them as well. Are all cables in all the pulleys, there are 4. After checking those things, there is a "up force" and "down force" adjustment on the opener, try increasing the "up force" by turning the adjustment in the direction of MORE force.
Could be that speedo cable has become disconnected or that the inner shaft has broken. The speed cable is connected between the back of the instrument cluster and the left side of the transmission. Check under the car that the cable is securely fitted to the side of the transmission. Disconnect it and and check on the condition of the square drive flexible shaft. The spinning of this inner shaft is what conveys the output shaft speed of the transmission to the instruments. The instrument cluster can be removed but pushing a length of coat hanger wire with right angle turn on its end between the the cluster and the dashboard surround. Turn the coat hanger to hook behind the cluster and pull forward to remove it. Try several points around the cluster. It is best to disconnect the speedo drive cable to withdraw the cluster (after electrical connections have been disconnected. check that the speedo cable is secure to the back of the instruments. If you remove the cluster completely follow the path of the speedo cable. If you have to replace the cable, tying a length of string to the speedo cable end first and posting the string down the cable path will help the re-installation enormously. Simply pull the string whilst reinstalling the instrument cluster until the end of the speedo can be got hold of. Refit the speedo cable to the transmission only after the instrument cluster is back in place.
THE steps will guide you through a successful scanner to pc interaction
Unpack your new scanner and set it up. Follow package directions and setup instructions to assemble any parts that need assembly.
Plug in your scanner and power it up.
Insert the setup CD in your CD-ROM or DVD drive. It should autotomatically run. If it doesn't, click on "My Computer" and then on the CD or DVD drive to open the CD. Look for a Setup.exe file. Double-click on it to launch the setup disk.
Follow the onscreen prompts to complete the end-user agreement and install the necessary drivers and software to run your new scanner.
When prompted, connect the USB cable to the scanner, then plug the other end into the USB port on your desktop PC.
Windows will recognize that a new device is available on your computer, and find the necessary software and drivers to install it.
Restart your PC if prompted to do so.
Check all cable connections to be sure that they are secure.
Disconnect the USB cable from the desktop and the scanner.
Turn off your computer and let it cool down for 10 minutes.
Turn the computer on, then turn the scanner on. Reconnect the USB cable to the scanner. Try connecting the other end of the USB cable to a different port on your computer.
If none of these suggestions solve your problem, uninstall the scanner and start over.
Removal & Installation
The slightest bind in the speedometer cable can cause unpredictable behavior in the cruise control system. If the cruise control exhibits intermittent surging or loss of set speed symptoms, check the speedometer cable first
Follow the appropriate procedure given previously for removal of the instrument cluster. The cluster need not be fully removed, but only loosened to the point of being able to disconnect the speedometer cable.
Disconnect the speedometer cable and check that any retaining clamps or clips between the dash and the firewall are released.
Safely raise the vehicle and support it on jackstands.
Disconnect the cable fitting at the transmission or transaxle and lift the cable and case away from the transmission or transaxle.
Follow the cable back to the firewall, releasing any clips or retainers.
From inside the vehicle, work the speedometer cable through the grommet in the firewall into the engine compartment. It may be necessary to pop the grommet out of the firewall and transfer it to the new cable.
When reinstalling, track the new cable into position, remembering to attach the grommet to the firewall securely. Make absolutely certain that the cable is not kinked, or routed near hot or moving parts. All curves in the cable should be very gentle and not located near the ends. Note the speedometer cable inside the housing must be lubricated with the proper lubricant before installing it to the vehicle.
Attach any retaining clips, brackets or retainers, beginning from the middle of the cable and working towards each end.
Attach the cable to the transmission or transaxle. Remember that the cable has a formed, square end on it; this shaped end must fit into a matching hole in the transmission or transaxle mount. Don't try to force the cable collar (screw fitting) into place if the cable isn't seated properly.
Inside the vehicle, hold the other end of the cable with your fingers or a pair of tapered-nose pliers. Gently attempt to turn the cable; if it's properly seated at the other end, the cable will NOT turn more than about 1/4 turn. If the cable turns freely, the other end is not correctly seated.
Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Attach the speedometer cable to the instrument cluster, again paying close attention to the fit of the square-cut end into the square hole. Don't force the cable retainer.
Reinstall the instrument cluster following procedures outlined previously. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
It isn't too difficult just do one at a time. Disconnect from your battery and then disconnect other end where it attaches to engine. There may be brackets along it's length that will have to be removed that secure it make sure to reinstall these on the new cables. I would suggest though before attaching your actual ends to your battery go ahead and replace bothe cables so you don't accidently arc your positive cable anywhere. It's just a safety precaution. Remove your negative battery connection before starting procedure.
WARNING: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY OUTPUT WIRE (B+ WIRE) FROM GENERATOR. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN INJURY OR DAMAGE TO
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Remove generator drive belt. Refer to 7, Cooling System for procedure.
(3) Remove generator pivot and mounting bolts/nut (Fig. 2) , or (Fig. 3). Position generator for access to wire connectors.
(4) If equipped, unsnap plastic cover from B+ terminal.
(5) Remove B+ cable output terminal mounting
nut at rear of generator (Fig. 4), (Fig. 5), or (Fig. 6). Disconnect terminal from generator.
(6) Disconnect field wire connector at rear of generator by pushing on connector tab.
(7) Remove generator from vehicle.
(1) Position generator to engine and snap field
wire connector into rear of generator.
(2) Install B+ terminal to generator mounting
stud. Tighten mounting nut. Refer to Torque Specifications.
(3) If equipped, snap plastic cover to B+ terminal.
(4) Install generator mounting fasteners and
tighten. Refer to Torque Specifications.
CAUTION: Never force a belt over a pulley rim using a screwdriver. The synthetic fiber of the belt can be damaged.