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THIS FRONT LOAD WASHER HAS AN ELECTRONIC SWITCH THAT SNAPS INTO THE LOCK MECHANISM. MINE POPPED OUT OF THE 2 CLIPS THAT HELD IT IN PLACE, SO WHEN I CLOSED THE DOOR, THE LOCK LIGHT DID NOT LIGHT AND THE DOOR DID NOT LOCK. HAD ALL KINDS OF ADVICE THAT DIDN'T WORK. UNPLUG THE WASHER, REMOVE O RING AROUND RUBBER BOOT. REMOVE THE FRONT PART OF THE BOOT. THEN YOU JUST REMOVE THE LOCK MECHANISMS, 2 SCREWS IN THE FRONT. PULL THE LOCK MECHANISM HOUSING TO THE SIDE, BE CAREFUL OF THE CONNECTED WIRES, THEN LOOK WITH A FLASHLIGHT. IF THE SMALL SWITCH BOX IS OUT OF PLACE, THEN POP IT BACK IN. THIS PROBLEM STARTED WHEN I WAS CLOSING THE DOOR TOO HARD AND QUICKLY. SO BE GENTLE WHEN CLOSING YOUR DOOR. THE ARM THAT LIFTS TO HIT THE SWITCH THAT TURNS THE DOOR LOCK LIGHT ON AND LOCKS THE DOOR, IS PLASTIC.
Sounds like your door is locked. Unplug the unit for 30 minutes then plug it back it hopefully it will reset everything and you will be able to open the door. Then after you get the door open you will need to run some tests to see what is the problem. Check the door lock sensor and the door lock mechanism
The reed switch has been removed from the newer washers of same model. Nothing to do with the switch. Open door and turn the drum. This has happened to me a couple times. If the drum will not turn , try putting a little force on it. Mine acted the same and it was a sock that was stuck. Didn;t know what it was until I removed the boot where the coin trap is . and found a sock hanging down from the tub. stick your fingers up it the tub( with washer unplugged) and check for any material that might be there.
you can also check you breaker, sometimes only one side of a 220v breaker will trip and the machine will still seem to have power but it does not have the full 220v.
worth a try, turn your breaker off and then back on.