Removing the Washer Top
Three screws secure the washer top at the back of the washer. Remove the three screws and lift the top from the washer.
Removing the Console from the Cabinet
Disconnect the Touch Pad/LED Assembly ribbon connector from the left
side of the Central Control Unit and release it from the wiring harness
brackets on the right side of the washer top
Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release
tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out of the
Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next
to the drawer opening. Release the tab securing the right side of the
console to the washer
Open the washer door and place a flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot
in the bottom center of the console. Push the console up to release
center console tab. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.
Removing the Touch Pad/LED Assembly from the Console
The Touch Pad/LED Assembly is removed as a single unit and contains the
Push Buttons, LEDs, cable, etc. The buttons can be replaced separately
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SOMETIMES THEY HIDE THE CORNER BACKSPLASH SCREWS ON THE BACK ATB 45 DEGREE ANGLE USUALLY PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS..... THEN BACKSPLASH WILL FLIP UP UNPLU MOLED POWER CORD AND ... LID SWITCH HARNESS AND TWO CABINET CLIPS THEN YOU WILL NEED A 1/4 NUT DRIVER A HAMMER AND A SOCKET THAT FITS INSIDE DEMISIONS OF COUPLER ...... REMOPVE CABINET AND SET OUT OF WAY....
DEAD CENTER IN FRONT OF WASHER IS A GREY PLASTIC ,OR WITE PUMP REMOVE UPPER AND LOWER SNAP CLIOPS AND SLIDE PUMP TO THE LEFT THEN YOU HAVE THE MOTOOR TO MORE LARGE CABINET CLIPS WITH TO 1/4 SCREWS REMOVE BOTH AN D PRY UPWARD TO REMOVE MOTOR CLIPS AND YOUR COUPLING WILL BE ON BACKSIDE OF MOTOPR PRY OFF OLD COUPLING OFF MOTOR AND TRANS SIDE ALING D SHAFT ON COUPLING TO MOTOR INSTALL SOCHET IN MIDDLE TAP WITH HAMMER TIKLL SHAFT IS EVEN WITH NEW COUPLINF REPAT FOR TRANS SIDE INSTALL NEW RUBBER BUSHING AND REASSYMBLE.....
Hi, pop off the front cover (3 Torx screws on the bottom lip) After removing the cover you will see a white plastic unit with a screw on cover on the front. Unscrew the cover (no tools needed). Pull the cover off then remove the strainer. It will have gray gook on it plus God knows what else. Clean the strainer in the sink replace screw the cover back on and your in business.
first before replacing any parts,check the wire harness from the motor tachometer on the end of the motor and the e.c.u. electronic control unit,they get small amounts of corrosion and can't pass r.p.m. signals to the control board,you may need to remove and re insert themk to clean the contacts,then if this doesn't help,then replace the hall sensor/tachometer on the motor,and finally the e.c.u. in the very end
you will need to remove the upper rear cover behind the control panel on the back side of the machine and remove the four screws securing it,then remove the wiring harness connecting it to the machine electrics
leaks are usually from valve /dispenser area on top left or from door boot. to check valves open top cover by removing 2 or 3 torx/ 1/4' screws at rear and slide back. check underside of dispenser for cracks, check rubber hose connecting valves to dispenser. to open front and check around boot, remove top cover, remove screws beside dispenser opening (remove drawer) snap control console off starting at dispenser side. On older non teardrop front disconnect and remove interface cables from ccu at rear (ribbon cable in clips on right side. On new teardrop models remove teardrop by unsnapping at top then work down carefully, then unclip console starting at left, disco cables at right side of interface. remove lower kick panel with 3 screws on bottom. then remove 2 front panel screws. remove 2 door lock asm screws and spring clip around boot, then 2 front panel top screws. panel comes right off, carefull of boot. door lock stays behind.
you can remove the lower access panel of unit ( 3 screws across the front bottom of unit), behond there directly in the middle of machine yuoll see large plastic turn screw. that s teh pump housing "filter cleanout". unscreww and clear all debris. be aware however if theres water in machine it will come out on you when you release teh turnscrew
There are no fasteners that I know of. I've worked on this model numerous times and have never seen any. There should be screws holding the front panel in place. Remove the lower panel under the door by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Placing a block of wood under the bottom of the frame to elevate the front feet of the washer off the floor will make it easier to access the screws. The washer is heavy so it may take two people to do this. DO NOT push on the door or the control panel. Use the facing of the washer front panel for leverage. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. There should be a mounting screws for the front panel on each side of the washer. Make sure the screws are present and that they are tight. You may just have a screw loose (no pun intended). I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance.
just remove back ...don't remember seeing broken belt on duet except the sport version..as far as control panel remove top a couple of screws top front and snaps in at bottom but IF AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT