When I upload the pictures to my computer, some come out with wide lines and/or dark shadowed lines across. Some are cut off mid way. I tried a new memory card and am still getting the same problem. HELP
Although your camera is not an A650, recommend contacting Canon, especially if your camera is less than a year old, to have it repaired under warranty service. Even if older, recommend contacting Canon anyways to argue free repair if your symptoms match that of the above link. Call 1-800-OK-CANON.
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Sounds like it could be vignetting from either a lens hood or an accessory. Are you seeing this in all photos or flash only? If flash, sometimes a wide shot with a lens hood on will block the flash output and cause the described shadow line.
If you're getting shadows on the bottom center of indoor photos when take with a flash, it is most probably due to the length of the lens on the camera.
A long, telephoto / zoom lenses will create the largest amount of shadow, while shorter and wide angle lenses will be least likely cast shadows. You can reduce the amount of shadow in pictures by removing the lens hood that may be on the end of the lens. The lens hood is to primarily to shield the lens from direct (sun) light, and probably isn't needed for indoor flash photography. Also, rely less on the zoom function of the lens on the camera and physically moving closer to your subject instead. The flash will need to provide much less light output and result in more flashes per battery.
You could use a separate flash - held off the camera so that the lens is not obstructing the light of the on camera flash. Using a Nikon Speed Light, you can set the on camera flash to provide a low output, that would be used primarily to trigger a Nikon Speed Light held by someone or arranged on another surface etc. Youtube is a great source for real life, practical "How To" videos for many operations of the camera and accessories.
Look carefully at your images taken with flash... on the horizontal image is the lower part of the image slighty darker and have a rounded fall off at the edges? Is the vertical image dark side a straight hard line or is there a rounding to the top and bottom?
What we are looking at is if you have a very wide angle lens with the lens shade attached to the lens, then the built-in flash catches part of the lens shade and make a shadow on your subject... take the lens shade off and try the same shot and see if that makes a difference...
Wide converter can be attached by using the dedicated adaptor ring ZCA-300 and will provide equivalent to 26mm angle of view in 35mm film.
The closest subject distance:
Normal Recording mode: 70.5 cm (from CCD), 60 cm (from the front of wide converter)
Macro mode : 20.5 cm (from CCD), 10 cm (from the front of wide converter)
*1 Set the Lens acc. to Wide Converter. in the setup menu. (Optical zoom will be fixed at wide-angle end.)
*2 Built-in flash can be used when attaching a filter, but shadowing may occur at the bottom of the image. In this case, use of program flash 5600HS(D), 3600HS(D), 2500(D) (sold separately) is recommended.
*3 Filter with 52mm in diameter can be attached to the adapter ring.
The built-in Speedlight on many Nikon cameras is designed to be a convenient way to either light up a dark subject or to add fill light to a daytime scene. The built-in Speedlight cannot replace a full size, external speedlight which should be used when more power or coverage are needed.
Because the built-in Speedlight is compact and close to the camera it cannot be used under all conditions. When using a lens that is physically very long, a subject that is very close, or a wide lens hood it is possible that a shadow may be cast upon the subject. Notice, in the sample below, the round shadow in the bottom center of the photo.
When the lens is too long or the coverage is too wide with a close subject a shadow of the lens itself is cast. In figure "A" below the lens is casting a shadow. Switching (or zooming) to a shorter lens (figure "B") prevents the shadow and allows even illumination.
If your lens, subject, or lens hood choice create a shadow, an external flash (either on the camera's hot-shoe or connected to the camera by a wire or wirelessly) should be used to fully light the subject.
You will see more detail in highlights and shadows (i.e. if you are a few stops over exposed, you will still see the details of a white wedding dress. If you are a few stops under, you will see the details of the shadows of large canyons on the beach) using the wide feature.
The wide mode is used to obtain a larger dynamic range with the S3. The standard mode uses the same dynamic range as the S2. If you are looking for faster write speeds, you would use the standard mode, as the wide mode takes longer to write information. Standard is also used to obtain a smaller Raw file size. Based on the scene being shot, only a photographer would know if he would need more dynamic range then usual. It depends on the highlights and shadows of the subject or scene.