The door from the house to the garage has 3 self closing door hinges which no longer force the door closed. The door is a metal door, somewhat heavy. The hinges have holes at the top. The top hinge is the only one which seems to still have the pin inserted.
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Re: self closing door hinges
This is not a refrigerator problem BUT, you must insert a tool like a drift punch into one of the holes on the top of the hinge and rotate it away from the door position then reposition the holding pin to prevent it from recoiling.
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I have a refrigerator with a top freezer that was constantly popping open, just enough to let the heat in and melt anything inside. This can also cause heavy frost build up from condensing humidity in the air. The frost can build up on the front face of the fridge where it meets the magnetic gasket on the door making it even harder to keep the freezer closed.
The cause in my case was that slamming the refrigerator door sent a puff of air through the ductwork to the freezer above. The sudden pressure increase popped the freezer door open and the door wasn't heavy enough to close on its own. Since this is a beer fridge in my garage I fixed it by putting a stick on childproof latch from H-D on the freezer door. :-)
If this was our main fridge indoors, I would first check to see how much force it takes to open the freezer vs. the refrigerator section. It should be about the same. If not, check the freezer door gasket to be sure no food or ice is built up on it and that the mating surface is clean. Check that the door is closing parallel to the mating surface. A misalignment would make it hard for the gasket to seal or stay sealed. Adjust hinges if necessary. If all seems ok, check to see if the fridge is level or possibly needs to be adjusted so it tilts back just a bit to make the doors self closing and not fighting gravity to stay closed. If all else fails, inspect the door gasket to be sure it isn't broken or stiffened with age. Inspect the bottom of the door gasket with a mirror. I once had a side by side with what looked like a good gasket until I felt around the bottom of the door. Replace if necessary.
The Liftmaster openers have 4 movement switches, a )opening and b) closing limit and c) opening and d) closing force. First check the door for smooth operation by opening the door by hand (disconnect from the opener with the release cord). Any binding should be felt this way. It is possible for a binding hinge, roller or torsion springs to add too much drag and cause the force switch to shut off the motor. Hinges, roller shafts and torsion springs should be lubricated at least annually with a non oily spray (silicone or teflon spray). Not WD-40 or 3-in-1! A light band of lube should be applied to the torsion spring coils. If the door can be operated smoothly by hand, then adjust the closing force switch 1/4 turn at a time. This is a safety device do not use it to overcome another problem!
Setting the Force
The force setting button is located on the left panel of the motor unit. The force setting measures the amount of force required to open and close the door.
1. Locate the purple button on the left panel of the motor unit (Figure 1).
2. Push the purple button twice to enter the opener into Force Adjustment Mode (Figure 2). The LED (Indicator Light) will flash quickly.
3. Push the remote control or control console (Figure 3). The door will travel to the DOWN (close) position.
Actually, you should just read carefully your garage door opener unit's manual.
If the hinge is out of alignment, or simply worn out, replacement may be necessary. But, if the problem is the cabinet door (warped, or enlarged screw-mount holes) a new hinge will give you the same issue you have now. A small magnetic catch may resolve your issue with less expense and no alignment needed. It involves a small (1" square) metal plate with a single screw which you attach near the the lower corner that hangs open. The complimentary magnet attaches to the door frame of the cabinet housing (inside the cabinet). Available at even small hardware stores, the catches cost about a buck, install in a minute or 2, and will discretely solve the problem shown in your video.
well the there are lots of possabilities but the most likly one is that there are shadows or pieces of debris that are on a laser detector or the chain that pulls the garage door is being heated while it is frozen which could change the signal on the closer. or you need a theremal cover on ur opperator system for the opening and closing on the door.... google always helps
Lift-Master 2000SDR opener. Opener generally works fine from the remotes. However, first time in the morning in cooler weather, it will start to close and the reverse and the lights blink. I have checked the senors - appear to be aligned properly. I have lubed the gear and used garage door spray on the rollers and hinges at the proper places. To close the door when this happens, I have to hold the wall button.
If you have a Chraftsman/Liftmaster: 1.Check to see if the door is running correctly. A. Run the door down and pull the emergency release. See if the door will run easily by itself. 1. If it runs hard by hand try lubricating the rollers and hinges with silicone spray or some form of lubricant (not WD 40) 2. If the door is heavy and falls back to the ground, you probably have a spring issue (either broken or needs more tension) in this case call a professional door repair company in your area. B. If the door runs fine then check the up and down force on your operator (the box that hangs from the ceiling and reads Craftsman). If the light(s) on your operator go from front and/or back, the force adjustment screw is on the back of the operator. If the lights are on the sides of the operator then the force adjustment screw is on the right side (looking from the back of the operator and facing the garage door). Turn the light blue adjustment screw with the up arrow to a higher number. C. If this does not solve your problem the top bushing could be going out of your operator. Open the case and see if a lot of black filings are on the top of the big gear. If so the gear assy. will have to be replaced part # 41C4220A
1.Check to see if the door is running correctly. A. Run the door down and pull the emergency release. See if the door will run easily by itself. 1. If it runs hard by hand try lubricating the rollers and hinges with silicone spray or some form of lubricant (not WD 40) 2. If the door is heavy and falls back to the ground, you probably have a spring issue (either broken or needs more tension) in this case call a professional door repair company in your area. B. If the door runs fine then check the up force on your operator (the box that hangs from the ceiling and reads Craftsman). If the light(s) on your operator go from front and/or back, the force adjustment screw is on the back of the operator. If the lights are on the sides of the operator then the force adjustment screw is on the right side (looking from the back of the operator and facing the garage door). Turn the light blue adjustment screw with the up arrow to a higher number.
sounds as if the hinges are no longer closing properly,its the only thing gonna stop door from closing, unless you can physically see something protruding from the door that would stop it. no t totallyunheard of for the hinges to fail, especially after a self clean cycle