Question about Refrigerators
Hi, Single Dad of 4 could use help. 2 year old. I've done the defrost twice; code come back. I have the back panel off and the top controller panel. Not sure what the next step should be... I'm looking for an assembly drawing so I have a clue.
er dh means the refrigs computer is not sensing a defrost cycle (dh means defrost heater) most common problem is a bad defrost sensor located on the evaporator behind the plastic cover in the back of the freezer compartment. your refrig will continue to cool for about 1 week unless you get this fixed then the evaporator coil will ice over and have to be defrosted manually.
this is an easy part to replace yourself and you can purchase the part thru sears.com or any of the other parts distributors on the net. you will need a complete model number from the unit to be sure and secure the correct part.
Thanks for using FixYa peyton...
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
SOURCE: control panel shows "Er dH"
The “er dh” code means a problem with the defrost cycle. It is triggered when the defrost sensor does not reach 46 degrees F within 2 hours of the defrost cycle starting. If indeed the defroster is not working, the evaporator (in the bottom of the fridge in the freezer compartment and behind a plastic cover) will eventually ice up completely, blocking the flow of cold air to the upper compartment. Use a thermometer to check the upper compartment to verify that no or little cool air is reaching it. If the evaporator is iced up, the defrost cycle is not working. Quick fix to restore operation to the upper compartment: tape over all vent holes in the upper section to keep that cool while you work below. There are about 6-7 vent opens in the back wall and two large one on the floor of upper compartment. Remove freezer door, drawers, slide rails and pull back the plastic cover (2 screws hold it in place, one in the center and one behind the ice maker) at the rear of the freezer section to expose the evaporator. Spray hot water on the ice accumulation on the evaporator (it looks like a radiator) to melt it (remembering to sop up what flows to the drain pan at the rear). The entire operation can be done in about 30 minutes (most time is used for removing ice and sopping up water from the drain pan). All should be ok for 3-4 days depending on humidity before the evaporator ices up again. In the meantime, order a replacement control board. You can view this by removing a panel w/ 3 screws at the rear left of the refrigerator. This panel controls all refrigerator functions, including defrost. Most likely, the integrated relay for the defrost cycle failed. Swapping out panels is a 10 minute job. Panels cost about $116 incl shipping from repairclinc.com. Shipping is about a week. You can find a free service manual on line that will help to identify all parts and is particularly useful for removing doors and trays so you can get at the evaporator. All in all, the customer service is useless. The fridge however is very easy to work on and amazingly simple. The replacement board has a slightly different relay for the defrost heater, so LG may have realized a problem existed with the original. It is also possible that electrical surges damaged the relay. In any case, 10 minutes and $116 seems pretty minor to have the fridge back to new condition. Good luck.
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
Check for current flow through the defrost heater. If no current then replace the heater. If heater is OK check thermistor for correct operation.
From service manual chart (their words not mine):
ER DH is Poor defrosting.
Indicates: Even though it is passed
1 hour since then
Defrosting , if Defrosting
sensor is not over 8°
Remarks: Temperature fuse Disconnection,Heater
disconnection, DRAIN Jam,
Poor Relay for Heater
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
This is a refrigerator manufactured by LG and is well known for this type of malfunction. There should be two 1/4 inch screws on the outside of the freezer drawer tracks near the front that will allow you to pull out the entire door assembly. Once this is done and the unit is fully defrosted and unplugged, there are a couple/few screws in the back freezer panel. Once the panel is removed, this part is located on the upper right side of the evaperator coils. It is sometimes wedged in tigtly but should pull out with a good tug. Unplug the white harness, remove defective part and reverse this process. Good luck and happy shopping for the shoes.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
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The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.
This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.
Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.
You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.
All displays should be on.
The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.
The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.
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Posted on Sep 25, 2010
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