Question about Car Audio & Video
I have a Silversonic 2200watt car amp I have wired it up and it powers on but no sound comes out of the subs. My stereo is putting out sound as I plug my headphone in and hear it. My amp just gets very hot. It does not go into Protect mode.
Does anyone know where I can get the manual for a megakick Silversonic 2200 car amp?
A picture can be found at
SOURCE: Amp goes into protect mode.
I would definately suspect wiring. If you can use a volt meter. Put it on the b+ to ground and see what the reading is should be 12+ then try the ground to remote wire should be 12+. If it drops below 12 volts when car starts. Recheck wires for loose connection. Also double check the wire you have the remote wire connected to. You might even want to disconnect from the amplifier and use a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the amp to remote on the amplifier and see if it stays on then. If it stays on you will have to find the loose connection or find a different wire to get remote power.
Posted on Feb 05, 2007
Hi Saint108. You're describing it well, and i know what the problem is already. The MA audio amp, can't hold with a 2 ohm load. It's too low for that amp, that's for sure. Those are budget amps and they are not well built enough to handle low ohm setups like that. It's overheating and there's no ways around it.. Other than wiring your subs differently ! Just wire your sub directly (not in parallel) in a 4 ohm load, you will notice it will stop overheating that much. Do it quick, you'll most likely fry your amp giving it such hard work !! The HUM you're hearing could be related to it also. Try that, and keep me posted on the status. Thanks ! Cheebster.
Posted on Jul 02, 2007
sounds like you need another amp, if the amp has a speaker already connected to each channel, you have no open channel to connect a sub-woofer.
Some years ago I seen an amplifier that was designed to use 3 speakers on 2 channels. what they did was had a speaker on each channel and then they bridged the 3rd speaker across it. That amplifier was designed for this configuration, unless you have an amplifier like that you should not try it. It may result in smoke from the amp.
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
If you are connecting the negative lead of the voltmeter to the chassis of the car, and then checking the voltage at the amp on the ground power input of the amplifier, then your amplifier is not grounded properly. The amp should also be grounded on the chassis of the car, so if you have 4 V DC on it, it can not possibly be grounded to the chassis. The chassis is the same potential at any point on the car.
Could it be that the 4 V DC is at the power terminals +B or positive voltage? That would not be an uncommon thing to have since the amplifier will hold some charge after it is turned off and that would be normal.
Since you have a voltage meter, you could check the current draw of the amplifier if your meter also have a setting for current or amps.
If so, connect the meter in series with the ground of the amplifier. That means to disconnect the ground wire at the amplifier, and use the meter to complete the ground connection by putting one lead of the meter on the ground wire that should be connected to the chassis of the car and the other lead to the ground terminal of the amplifier. It does not matter which lead you connect to the wire or the amplifier, that would only make your measurement i postive current or negative current, but the meter must be set up properly for current. Most of them have a diiferent jack to put the positive lead into for current. most have two different jacks. If yours does also, choose the lead with the larger amp rating. Most have 10A and 300mA, the lareger amp rating is 10A. That is 10 amps max and the 300mA means 300 milli-amps which is .3 amps max.
Do this with the amplifier turned off and the car off. If you measure any current at that point you do have a current draw with the amp off and the amp would need to be serviced by a professional. If you have no current draw there, the amp is not the source of your battery draining. This would find out for certain if the amplifier is really draining the battery.
If you have found this information help a rating of "FixYa" would be appreciated.
If you need more help just ask,
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
One of the more confusing things with a car stereo can be when the amplifier goes into protection mode. One minute it's working and the next minute it's not. Here's a brief troubleshooting method that will hopefully help you if your amplifiers ever go into protection.
1. Try to determine the cause. Amp's can go into protection mode for several reasons. Knowing what happened before it cut out can help determine how to fix it. Did the amp not work as soon as it was turned on? Did it happen after blasting for hours (may be thermal overload and it needs to cool)? Did it cut out after you hit a bump (a wire connection may have come loose)?
2. Tear it down. Get the amp down to it's most basic state. Remove all of the speaker wiring and RCA wiring and leave only the power, ground and remote leads connected. If you still have a problem in this state then either your amp is defective or you may have an installation problem such as the amp touching metal.
Remember that an amplifier should only be connected to the vehicle through the power and ground terminals. Mounting the amplifier to the metal of the vehicle, including putting the mounting screws into metal, can cause problems for your amplifier. Always mount the amplifier to a non-conductive surface. An easy way to accomplish this is to mount the amplifier to a wood board and then mount the board to the vehicle.
3. If the amp is OK in this torn down state keep adding the other wires back on until you find what causes the problem. Add the RCA cables first. Then add the speaker wires one at a time. If the speaker wires cause the problem then they are probably touching metal. Check to make sure that a speaker wire isn't being pinched somewhere between the amp and the speaker. Also check that the speaker wire or speaker terminals aren't touching the vehicle metal near the speaker opening. Rear decks and door panels can easily touch unprotected speaker terminals if not properly installed.
If the problem starts occuring when you connect the subwoofer wires to the amplifier you may have your subwoofers wired at too low an impedence. First check the specs on your amplifier to make sure what kind of loads it is stable under. Then go here and check the wiring configuration to make sure that your load is not too low:
If you believe your amplifier is defective contact the manufacturer first. Many have flat repair rates that are very affordable and cover parts and labor. However local repair shops may be cheaper if it is just a small repair. Compare the manufacturer's repair rate to that of a local shop. If you don't know the reputation of the local shop it may be better to send it to the manufacturer who will have working knowledge of the amp and parts readily available.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
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It sounds like your charging system may be causing the problem. The voltage may be too high or the stereo may be too sensitive to high voltage. You need to connect a voltmeter to your system to make sure it's not charging over 14.5v. A normal charging system wii charge at 13.5-13.8v.
Have someone connect a digital multimeter to the B+ and ground wires of the head unit. Have a passenger monitor the voltage while driving. If the head unit cuts out at the same voltage each time and the voltage isn't excessive, the head unit needs to be repaired. If the voltage goes up above ~14.5v, the charging system needs to be checked.
Oct 17, 2007 | Car Audio & Video
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