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Hi, I ordered new bearings for my LG wm2277hg washer... I found a good post on how to remove the bearings (I thought), so took everything apart, ordered the two new bearings and a new rear seal and took everything the plastic tub separated, removed the rear motor components and tried to use a rubber mallet to drive the drive shaft and drum out of the front on the back half of the tub...they won't budge, any advice on how to get the old bearings out...also if there are any tricks to get the new bearings in? Seems simple enough, but they are so tight, seems they are press fit and I don't have any tools to support that.

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Have you remove the tub nut from the shaft?

Posted on Dec 06, 2010


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Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

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Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Don't order any spares until you've stripped it down. See below:
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  • Remove bolt holding rotor onto splined shaft.
  • Push down on top of tub to make the rotor more accessible then pull it off the shaft. Be aware that hefty magnets in rotor tend to pull it back on. Beware - strong magnetic fields!
  • Disconnect cables running to stator (that rather impressive ring of coils) and remove the six bolts which attach it to the tub.
  • Do NOTremove the 23 bolts which go through the steel plate at back of tub into polypropylene tub itself. I did - nothing happens!
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  • Remove sprung wire which holds the rubber bellows to the front of the machine (the "port hole"). Leave it attached to the tub but fold the rubber into the drum so it's out of the way.
  • Disconnect rubber tube connecting the tub to the pump. I found it easier to remove it at the pump side
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  • There is a long tube, about 1cm diameter running from an air chamber near the bottom of the tub to a pressure sensor (to monitor water level) mounted at the front top right. Disconnect from the pressure sensor.
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  • Pull out the drawer and remove the two screws holding the soap dispenser. That will be in the way too! Leave hoses connected.
  • Also unscrew the solenoid valves. That's the last thing in your way.
  • Pop out the nylon gizmos which hold the suspension springs where they attach to the cabinet.
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  • If you replace the rear drum, rescue and reuse (or order a new) seal (huge O ring) between the two halves of the tub. Also rescue and reuse thermocouple.
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Two days doing it blind without instructions! More like two hours if I had to do it again.


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Here is a link posted by another member of this site for the Svr Repair manual;  

This will help you trouble shoot issues with this machine.  I removed my clutch and lubed needle berings in the clutch pully and that took care of my issue of DC/UC errors in spin cycle.  Here is a quick note on my repair action.

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I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a spin cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

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Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model.


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