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Three things come to mind: A) High humidity has overwhelmed the defroster & blocked the passageways so air will not circulate. (Put important food in a cooler, turn the temperature dial to off & leave doors open until ice melts out. Generally overnight. Be prepared to mop up excess water) B) Defrost timer stopped working. (Generally behind a cover panel on the fridge side. Un-plug unit & remove panel to find a small metal box in the airflow path from the freezer. They generally have provision to manually turn the timer wheel with a screwdriver. Plug back in & allow to run & see if the ice melts. If so, the clock motor is shot. Replacements can be bought on-line) C) Burned out defroster heating element. Generally older units. (Un-plug & put essentials in a cooler. Remove cover panel on freezer side to expose cooling coils. Allow ice to melt overnight, (again, lots of water). In the AM you can see the glass tube enclosed heater coils. All dark & smokey inside, heater is burned out. Replacements on-line for ~ $75.) If the unit is more than 15 years old, consider a more energy efficient replacement. Good Luck!
A PAIR OF FAN MOTOR WILL COST YOU$90 DLLRS PLUS INSTALL, ANY ONE CAN INSTALL THE FANS , UNIT WILL HAVE TO BE REMOVED FROM INSTALL, ONCE ON A TABLE DRILL OFF THE RIVETS AND REMOVE COVER, LIFT THE BLUE INSULATION COVER THAT WILL BE EXPOSED AND YOU WILL SE ALL 4 FANS TWO COLD SIDE(EVAP SIDE) TWO HTO SIDE (CONDENSER) USE A PHILLIPS SCREW DRIVER TO REMOVE FANS INSTALL THE NEW ONES AND CLOSE UNIT USING SELF TAPPING SCREWS OR 1/8 RIVETS AND A HAND HELD RIVET GUN.
is this one of those units that if you reverse the 12 volts it will heat the food instead of cool it,if so did you possibly get the power reversed,i know its an a.c. adapter,but it still needs to be rectified to d.c. to operate the unit after the adapter
Keep it off the floor a few inches. Use foam or wood blocks or strips.
Keep the inside dry. If ice forms on the cooling unit, it will stop the fan. If this happens, you can defrost it by unplugging it for a short time. Dry the inside good.
Keep the outside fan and heat sink clean. Use the "canned air" and blow off the fan and heat sink.
You can take off the fan covers and remove the fan units ( use care the fans ar easy to damage) Pull the stickers off the back a put a drop of very light lube. Put it all back together and should work.
When you get tired of doing this every month, or the unit fails. Go by a koolatron unit. Better unit, less trouble. Only one moving part. And if it need replacemnt, most truck stops have them.
It sounds like the thermostat is "stuck closed". Try unplugging the cooler, MAKE SURE ALL POWER HAS BEEN DISCONECTED. Remove thermostat cover with thermostat on it. Carefully pull one of the wires spade connectors off the thermostat. Insulate the end of the wire you disconected with electrical tape. Now plug the cooler back in. If the compressor stays off the thermostat is the problem. Let me know if that helps. I know of a common replacement cold controll for that unit:)
Between phone calls to danby and my neighbor, we fixed this problem. My E4 was on the left (lower chamber). If you have one on the right it is the upper chamber. The E4 is a defrost sensor that can be ordered from Danby's distributor (call Danby for the one in your area). The part and shipping were around $30.
If your E4 is on the left...
- remove the top shelves
- open the cover inside the cooler above the digital read outs (the top unscrews)
- inside is were the repacement sensor plugs in
- replace the one with the long cord
- run the sensor down the back to the lower chamber
- replace all covers and parts
If the E4 is on the right...
- remove the top shelves
- look on the right hand wall for a black plastic grate, the sensor is under this grate
- replace the sensor (simple plug and play)
- replace the racks.
Please pass this on, it was a ***** to deal with Danby and I nearly trashed the cooler out of sheer frustration.
You can google "coleman 5640" and quite a few websites will come up that offer repair parts and the cord is one of them. There are only three parts that you can still buy for that model cooler. The cord, the motor, and the removable tray. Hope this helps.
I bought one but it was missing the cord, so I hooked it to the
benchtop supply. I found out if you place positive to the red
terminal/grey wires under the outside cover and negative to the
blue/black wires it cools. With a DPDT switch and a couple of LEDs you could wire it so you dont need that special coleman cord, any lighter cord will work provided it can handle about 6 amps, I recommend 12 to 14 gauge wire and a 6 amp fuse.