Check these: Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive Before testing the lid switch, unplug the washer or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer
from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses
the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning
and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make
sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your
switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the
internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may
differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.
There are two primary types of lid switches. One type
on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another
style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case
the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is
used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the
harness that connects to the switch.
Test the switch for continuity using a multitester.
Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each
terminal. The multitester should display a reading of infinity. Depress
the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a
reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Some lid
switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it
for continuity with a multitester. If the fuse is bad, replace it with
one of the same rating
Disconnect the power source to your washer before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Locate your washer's motor. There will be to wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. Set your multimeter to the R x 1 setting. Touch each of the meter's probes to one terminal each. Your motor should show little resistance (a reading of zero, or close to zero).
Now check the ground connection. Place one probe on the bare metal housing of the motor. Place the other probe on each terminal, one at a time. You should not receive any reading on your meter from this test.
If your washer's motor fails either of these tests, you will have to replace it.
Disconnect the power source to your washer before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Locate your washer's motor. There will be two wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. The wires will be held in place with metal slip on connectors. Firmly grasp and then pull on these connectors to remove the wires. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
Depending on your model, your motor could be secured to the washing machine with any number of screws. Remove all the screws before you remove the motor. There may also be a spring present to help secure the motor to the machine. Remove the screw before removing the motor, but be sure to replace it after the new motor is in place.
Discard used motor and insert new one in its place. If yours is a model that makes use of stabilizing spring, put it back in place now. Secure the new motor to the machine with screws, if you removed any from the old motor. Reconnect the motor's wiring harness.
Restore power to the unit. Run your washing machine through a cycle to make sure it is functioning as it should.
hope this helps you let me no
×
87 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×