Be carefull, defective or cheap grinder can produce lots of dust in your coffee, hence blocking the tiny space in the extraction cartridge after a while. If water goes out without the handle in place, it's not a pump problem. It happened to me, I had to clean the extraction catridge thouroughly. I couldn't acheive anything with the needles, the extent of the mess was too great, it was like ciment in there. I had to go to an extreme mesure, only do that if everything else fail. Remove the extraction catridge from the handle and put it in your oven, yes the OVEN. Do a auto-cleanup cycle with your oven (yeah, you need your oven to do this, if not, ask a friend who have one !) this will reduce any coffee dust into hashes, it may discolor the cartridge a little bit, but this is only cosmetic. Run a cycle without coffee to get rid of the hashes and voilà !
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It's probably one of two things:1) They pressure contacts that engage the electromagnet may have burnt carbon deposits similar to spark plugs. One needs to clean in between the contact (two on each side) while putting slight pressure as the contacts meet.2) The spring mechanism that engages these contacts has snapped at the securing point, thus not able to put enough pressure to engage these contacts that power the electromagnet. For some reason it's always the left side. If the toaster is more than 5 years old I would suggest buying a new on , even though these toasters are very reliable. As the crumbs that left inside are so powdery and coats every surface inside, as well.
To me this problem sounds like there is something wrong with the pump.
I think its better to buy another Karcher machine and get the 12 month warranty. As with old pressure washers you could spend money on certain parts to fix the machine but a few weeks/months down the line a different part of the machine could break and then you end up having to buy a new machine anyway.
Also being 15 years old you would have to check to see if parts are still made for the machine. This is because once Karcher discontinues a machine parts for that machine are manufactured for 10 years from that discontinue date.
broken ground to the frame,cracked magnet assembly in the distributor next to the rivets,the distributor hall ic has rust near it,or the vortec 50psi pump is overfuelling.there are 2 different fuel pumps.pressure is 13 psi.disconnect pump and put it on a fuel machine at 13 psi and see how it runs.the fuel pressure regulator can only compensate so much. ground the ecm case directly to the chassis with a jump cable.start with those
It depends: how steep are the hills? Assuming you have the standard 4-speed or 5-speed gearbox, it's likely that the tiny engine (built for economy, not for power) is simply not generating enough torque to pull the car up in high gear. Have you tried simply downshifting?
If the problem truly is the engine losing power and not just lugging due to being in too high a gear on a steep grade, you should check your fuel pressure and you may also want to check the condition of the fuel pump and feeder lines inside the gas tank. A 20 year old car will probably have some disintegration of the feeder lines, they may even be partly broken off inside the tank resulting in poor fuel flow, or disintegrated rubber may be gumming up the strainer or the pump itself. Personally, I'd replace the fuel lines, fuel filter and if low pressure still exists, the fuel pump as well.
The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.
This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).
The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.
If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.
Hi Ben, had the motor impellor shattered in the old pump ie-chunks broken off ? if so there is every possibility that these pieces have lodged in the wash delivery pipework at an elbow or indeed at the arm boss itself -i would try to check as much of the pipework as possible because this would definately reduce your final pressure at the arms, good luck KIT
If it has worked for a year and your able to choose different cycles with the same result. It seems to functions with one common element failing. If the control unit cant detect how full the machine is with water it will shut down. Sounds like a water problem steming from your pressure switch. Not sure which model you have but usually it will sit on the water pump or under the console with a clear hose if under the console. If so a quick test of attaching an ohm meter set on continuity then blowing lightly to see if under pressure the switch reacts by closing if it doesnt then the switch is bad.
Check out the water inlet solenoid valve if this is clicking then it is probably the water level pressure switch which appears to be controling the flow of water mechanicaly dependent on whether the water is high enough in the machine and therefore giving enough pressure to close the switch .This may be stuck closed.