Question about Continental Fish File Refrigerator - 1 Row

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Heater/ Air Conditioner Blower Motor

The cabin blower quit working in my !995 Lincoln Continental. I was told by the dealer that it sounded like it might be the resistor. I obtained one, and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem. If I run a hot wire direct to the motor, it comes on and works fine. What other parts could it be?
The car has the climate control panel on the dash that supposedly sets the cabin temperature at exactly the temperature you have set it to.
Any help in this would be appreciated.
Thanks

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You should relist under lincoln continental, not refrigerators. If you have electronic temp control, you should not have a resister. You should have a bower motor speed controller.

here's info for 1996 system. I don't have 1995, sorry.

A/C Blower Motor Speed Control
The A/C blower motor speed control (19E624) is located under the A/C evaporator housing, to the left of the blower motor (18527).

  • The function of the A/C blower motor speed control is to convert low power signals from the EATC control assembly to a high current, variable ground feed for the blower motor.
  • A/C blower motor speed is infinitely variable and is controlled by the electronic control assembly software and A/C electronic door actuator motor position.
  • A delay function provides a gradual increase or decrease in blower motor speed under all conditions.
Heater/ Air Conditioner Blower Motor - aa1dc43.gif
Blower Speed Override Thumbwheel
Rotate the blower speed override thumbwheel more than 10 degrees to turn OFF the AUTOMATIC blower indicator and provide manual control of the A/C blower motor speed.
  • The display will show FAN and a fan symbol.
  • Rotating the wheel fully down against its lower stop locks the blower motor (18527) at its lowest speed.
  • Rotating the wheel fully up against the stop, locks the blower motor at its highest speed.
Press the AUTOMATIC button to resume automatic A/C blower motor control and remove the FAN and fan symbol from the display window.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • gerry bissi May 22, 2009

    check fuse #1 40 Amp in power distribution box (under Hood I believe). Confirm in owner manual.

    Check fuse # 9, 40 amp.

    Check blower motor relay, in power distribution box under hood.

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The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons
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The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
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The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.

The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons
The fan or blower has failed.
The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.

The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
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So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.
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Good luck in rectifying the problem.....

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Hello,

The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.

The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons
The fan or blower has failed.
The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.

The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working

Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.

For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it's own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.

So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.
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The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.

The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons
  1. The fan or blower has failed.
  2. The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.

The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working

Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.

For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it’s own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.

So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.
  1. The fan or blower
  2. The timer device
  3. The electric heater coil
By methodically checking these parts you can isolate your problem and fix it.

Take care.

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