Car battery (power source) is connected to the amp, stereo connected, and speakers. Amp works great when car is ON but when stereo turned off and the car turned off, there is 4V DC on the ground side of the amp causing it to drain the battery. What is causing the problem?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Pioneer 760W (Mosfet Power Supply) Amplier
If you are connecting the negative lead of the voltmeter to the chassis of the car, and then checking the voltage at the amp on the ground power input of the amplifier, then your amplifier is not grounded properly. The amp should also be grounded on the chassis of the car, so if you have 4 V DC on it, it can not possibly be grounded to the chassis. The chassis is the same potential at any point on the car.
Could it be that the 4 V DC is at the power terminals +B or positive voltage? That would not be an uncommon thing to have since the amplifier will hold some charge after it is turned off and that would be normal.
Since you have a voltage meter, you could check the current draw of the amplifier if your meter also have a setting for current or amps.
If so, connect the meter in series with the ground of the amplifier. That means to disconnect the ground wire at the amplifier, and use the meter to complete the ground connection by putting one lead of the meter on the ground wire that should be connected to the chassis of the car and the other lead to the ground terminal of the amplifier. It does not matter which lead you connect to the wire or the amplifier, that would only make your measurement i postive current or negative current, but the meter must be set up properly for current. Most of them have a diiferent jack to put the positive lead into for current. most have two different jacks. If yours does also, choose the lead with the larger amp rating. Most have 10A and 300mA, the lareger amp rating is 10A. That is 10 amps max and the 300mA means 300 milli-amps which is .3 amps max.
Do this with the amplifier turned off and the car off. If you measure any current at that point you do have a current draw with the amp off and the amp would need to be serviced by a professional. If you have no current draw there, the amp is not the source of your battery draining. This would find out for certain if the amplifier is really draining the battery.
If you have found this information help a rating of "FixYa" would be appreciated.
If you need more help just ask,
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This could be the reason. If you look at the specs for this amp you will see that the continuous power out is rated for 380W bridged. The speakers rated at 450W should be able to handle close to 315W continuous. Now if you split these numbers being you have bridged these speakers, you drive each one up to about 190W continuous. The speakers are being driven approximately by 60% of the rated capability. I personally like to keep it right where you got it, not exceeding 80% of the speakers rated capacity.
You might not want to do that. The 760W Pioneer amp might require larger wire due to the power consumption of the amp. Most amplifiers require a direct wire from the battery to the amp. The power wire for the factory amp might not require very large wire and if you tie into the power for that amp the fuse could blow and wiring in your car could melt or catch fire, The best installation is to run the recommended guage wire from the battery directly to the amp with a properly rated in-line fuse.
ok here is how it goes power wire from the battery all the way to amp..then ground wire from amp to a good ground on car then the remote wire which you have to run from the amp to the back of your stereo which in most cases is blue then hook subs from the sub box to the amp
You'll need some source of 12V DC power which is not available on your home stereo. A 12V battery or DC power supply will work OK. You'll also need to wire in a toggle switch to "trigger" the amp to turn on. Just put the toggle switch inline with a diode for isolation between the power wire and the "remote" terminal on the amp. Flip the toggle on when you need to use the amp.
The speaker connections and source connections are all shown on page 6 of the manual and would in any case, be the same as if you were installing the amp in a vehicle. Be aware that most home stereo speakers are 8 ohms, whereas speakers and subs designed for vehicles are usually 4 ohm or sometimes even 2 ohm. This will not be a problem. you shoud be able to drive 8 ohm speakers, they just won't be as loud because the amp will not produce it's full power into an 8 ohm load. Plug your RCA's into your home stereo's preamp outputs, or if there are no preamp outputs, use the speaker level inputs on the lower edge of the amp.
Most HK av receivers have pre amp out,power amp in with metal jumpers connecting them for the main or front channels. that would be the best place to hook up the EQ on a AV receiver. If your receiver doesn't have pre out, power in jacks , you can use tape monitor .record out playback in. The tape monitor option is best for stereo use , as the active EQ will charge all speakers in tape mode, possibly damaging other speakers.I run my 901 s with a seperate pre-amp,power-amp hooked up to my Denon AV receiver that way i can run in surround w/standard speakers
ok first the large red is battery connection, black large is ground find good source to ground, the 0.75 is most likely the power on for the amp you should hook it up to the power antenna wire on the radio. this will turn on the amp when the radio is turned on. the grey green and black are prob speaker hook ups input. the four wires are speaker outs, the red wire might be power for cd changer test it to see if it puts out power when amp is on.