Car battery (power source) is connected to the amp, stereo connected, and speakers. Amp works great when car is ON but when stereo turned off and the car turned off, there is 4V DC on the ground side of the amp causing it to drain the battery. What is causing the problem?
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Re: Pioneer 760W (Mosfet Power Supply) Amplier
If you are connecting the negative lead of the voltmeter to the chassis of the car, and then checking the voltage at the amp on the ground power input of the amplifier, then your amplifier is not grounded properly. The amp should also be grounded on the chassis of the car, so if you have 4 V DC on it, it can not possibly be grounded to the chassis. The chassis is the same potential at any point on the car.
Could it be that the 4 V DC is at the power terminals +B or positive voltage? That would not be an uncommon thing to have since the amplifier will hold some charge after it is turned off and that would be normal.
Since you have a voltage meter, you could check the current draw of the amplifier if your meter also have a setting for current or amps.
If so, connect the meter in series with the ground of the amplifier. That means to disconnect the ground wire at the amplifier, and use the meter to complete the ground connection by putting one lead of the meter on the ground wire that should be connected to the chassis of the car and the other lead to the ground terminal of the amplifier. It does not matter which lead you connect to the wire or the amplifier, that would only make your measurement i postive current or negative current, but the meter must be set up properly for current. Most of them have a diiferent jack to put the positive lead into for current. most have two different jacks. If yours does also, choose the lead with the larger amp rating. Most have 10A and 300mA, the lareger amp rating is 10A. That is 10 amps max and the 300mA means 300 milli-amps which is .3 amps max.
Do this with the amplifier turned off and the car off. If you measure any current at that point you do have a current draw with the amp off and the amp would need to be serviced by a professional. If you have no current draw there, the amp is not the source of your battery draining. This would find out for certain if the amplifier is really draining the battery.
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This could be the reason. If you look at the specs for this amp you will see that the continuous power out is rated for 380W bridged. The speakers rated at 450W should be able to handle close to 315W continuous. Now if you split these numbers being you have bridged these speakers, you drive each one up to about 190W continuous. The speakers are being driven approximately by 60% of the rated capability. I personally like to keep it right where you got it, not exceeding 80% of the speakers rated capacity.
An amp is usually wired straight to the battery and power distribution is controlled within it. The battery will deliver a 12v dc current to it. This is the same no matter what vehicle it is installed in. The only case that would be different is if you had a competition sound system.
The cable should not cause the problem unless it is shorting out somewhere on the remote or positive cable. I would use a larger gauge wire first as this is the cheaper way to go, and if the same problem occurs you are having a short in the sub or box causing the protection mode. You will have to back trace to find possible cross connections.
ok here is how it goes power wire from the battery all the way to amp..then ground wire from amp to a good ground on car then the remote wire which you have to run from the amp to the back of your stereo which in most cases is blue then hook subs from the sub box to the amp
You'll need some source of 12V DC power which is not available on your home stereo. A 12V battery or DC power supply will work OK. You'll also need to wire in a toggle switch to "trigger" the amp to turn on. Just put the toggle switch inline with a diode for isolation between the power wire and the "remote" terminal on the amp. Flip the toggle on when you need to use the amp.
The speaker connections and source connections are all shown on page 6 of the manual and would in any case, be the same as if you were installing the amp in a vehicle. Be aware that most home stereo speakers are 8 ohms, whereas speakers and subs designed for vehicles are usually 4 ohm or sometimes even 2 ohm. This will not be a problem. you shoud be able to drive 8 ohm speakers, they just won't be as loud because the amp will not produce it's full power into an 8 ohm load. Plug your RCA's into your home stereo's preamp outputs, or if there are no preamp outputs, use the speaker level inputs on the lower edge of the amp.
Supplies needed: - 8 Gauge power wire (long enough to run from your battery to the amp placement) WITH an inline fuse!! - Depending on your stereo (if it has amp pre-outs or not) you will either need RCA cables (long enough to reach your amp from your stereo) OR a Line-Out converter AND RCA cables. - The power lead that connects to your "REMOTE" line on your stereo (long enough to reach from amp to stereo - usually blue) - A good ground wire ( long enough to reach a metal part of your car from the amp)
====================================================================== STEP 1: Find a spot to run the power wire from your battery - through your firewall and into your car - and then to your amp. (DO NOT CONNECT IT TO ANYTHING YET) STEP 2: Remove your car stereo and look to see if you have PRE-AMP outs (RCA connectors for an amp on the rear of the unit) A- if you do, GREAT.. proceed to step 3 B- if you don't.. you will need to get a LINE-OUT CONVERTER - what this does is converts the higher signals from your standard wires on your radio, to RCA style wires to connect to your amp. B2- you will also want to buy a wiring harness kit for your stereo, unless you want to hack away at your factory wires.. (not recommended) - connect the harness kit to your factory wire harness, wire in your leads for the output converter, and run the other end to your stereo.* *you will need to know which wires run to the speakers you plan to power with the amplifier B3 - once the converter is properly connected - proceed to step 3 STEP 3: Plug the RCA cables into the stereo or converter, and run them properly from behind your radio to the amp but DO NOT CONNECT THEM YET. STEP 4: Connect the REMOTE wire from your stereo to the same wire for your amp . (this enables the amp to turn on/off with your radio.. otherwise.. you will have alot of dead batteries) STEP 5: re-install your stereo into the car. STEP 6: Connect the RCA speakers into the INPUTS on your amp STEP 7: Connect the REMOTE wire to your amp. STEP 8: Connect the speaker wire from the OUTPUTS on your amp to the speakers you wish to power STEP 9: Connect the POWER CABLE to the amp PROPERLY STEP 10: Connect the GROUND CABLE to a metal part of your car (sheet metal, not just a bolt) STEP 11: Connect the POWER CABLE to the battery cable STEP 12: Re-connect your Battery STEP 13: Start your car, and test your radio.
If you have any issues from here.. you need to re-check all of your connections.
ok first the large red is battery connection, black large is ground find good source to ground, the 0.75 is most likely the power on for the amp you should hook it up to the power antenna wire on the radio. this will turn on the amp when the radio is turned on. the grey green and black are prob speaker hook ups input. the four wires are speaker outs, the red wire might be power for cd changer test it to see if it puts out power when amp is on.