My iron will not stay on, one slight move of the iron it shuts off, (light goes off and the iron basically shuts off) one more move of the iron or the cord it goes back on. Very frustrating as these irons are expensive and I would expect better performance from them as I bought my iron a short time ago, perhaps one year. Unfortunatley I am trying to find my bill of sale, hopefully where I bought it from will help me to fix or replace. Sometimes it does not matter if one spends a lot or less on an item, next time I will buy a cheaper item and if it breaks it breaks at least it was not expensive and can afford to buy cheaper than expensive in the long run.
This is a problem with a lot of Rowenta irons. It is the auto shut off that is not working properly and the only way to fix it is to have it disassembled and the switch hardwired to be on whenever the iron it plugged in. It is a thermal metal switch and it just stops working and then the iron will not turn on and the yellow light blinks.
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First let me say I HATE AUTO SHUT OFF!!! It sounds like it has wore out. the computer part that tells it when to shut off it not working. It would be cheaper to buy a new one vs fixing yours. If I were you, find an older iron that has LOTS of steam vents and NO AUTO SHUTOFF at your local goodwill, thrift store or garage sale.
A lot of rowenta irons have a safety or auto shutoff built in them that fails. The only way I have found to fix them is to disassemble it and permanently connect the switch then it works fine, just does not auto shut off.
Unless you have a 5 or 6 hundred dollar iron, or unless it is brand new, and still under warranty, there is an excellent rule of thumb when an iron quits working: Buy a new one! These days, irons can be purchased cheaply enough that it is WELL worth the money. Not just for the convenience, but for the safety issues. This is an appliance that could burn your house down even if it's in PROPER working order. Hope this helps!!
Clarification: When you "switch off" the unit, does the light stay on, but the steamer itself shut off (cools off to no steam)? If this is the case, only the LED does not light (which will not affect actual performance, other than being a "false" indicator driving some users crazy) like an Engine light that stays on in your car. It is likely a bad connection rather than a bad LED (Light Emitting Diode indicator). If the steamer portion is powered on all the time regardless of the switch position, try turning the temperature settings all the way down on the base and iron before unplugging unit to prevent the arcing (sparks) from damaging the input AC plug.
Solution: you will need a small Security Torx Bit/Driver to take unit far enough apart to inspect, troubleshoot and determine cause. You will also need an analog or digital multi-meter to check the unplugged unit' switch using self-powered ohm-out (continuity check) function, testing forward & reverse diode for lo & hi resistance reading respectively, (if you use the Rx1 range, the diode will glow slightly in one direction if it is good & you use an old analog meter). If you are so inclined or know somebody into electronics to do this, you can get these tools at Harbor Freight for $10-$20, good luck and keep in touch.