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Re: powering a pioneer head unit
You can not connect this to an A/C voltage. The radio will not work. In fact it will destroy many internal parts. It must have a D/C voltage supply of about 14.4 volts.That is what it was designed for.
But if you like smoke and fire, it could be fun to watch (just kidding).
Seriously now, what you need is a D/C power supply that is rated for about 10 amps.
The accessory and remote wire does not need to be connected to anything if you are using it in your home. But it does need to be insulated from contacting anything conductive.
The negative ground wire (black) need to be connected to the negative (black) terminal of a power supply. the yellow and red wires are for the positive (red) terminal of the power supply. Then you just need the speakers to be connected and the antenna plugged in. You can use an old car antenna that still has the cord and jack connected to it for the antenna. The speaker wires are color coded in pairs, white and grey are front and the green and violet are rear speakers. The wire with the black stripe is the negative speaker wire and the solid color is the positive.
I hope this was helpful to you, and if it was a good rating like"fixya" is a great way for you to say thanks for the free advice.
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Either that speaker is not connected or, the speaker is blown. To test: Disconnect that speaker from the stereo and, using a 9volt battery, tap the speaker's + and - to the battery's + and -. You should hear a "pop". That would indicate that the speaker works. DO NOT connect the 9 volt battery to the stereo side of the speaker wire!!!!
I have been installing car audio for over 40 years.A small adapter like you use to charge a phone,Doe,s not have enough amps in it to run the deck (Properly) When you crank up the vollume, The deck will cut out, You Can buy a bigger 12 Volt power supply from radio shack or the source that will power it (Properly) It should be at least 3 amp output .
Apparently, you have no power at the 12 volt battery/memory wire at the radio harness of the vehicle. This wire is white with blue in color. Also, based upon your description, you have connected the battery/memory wire and the accessory wire of the radio to the 12 volt accessory (switched) wire of the vehicle. This wire is white with red in color. Check the radio/ stereo fuse of the car. You may have blown the fuse during your installation. You have no memory at the radio because when you turn off the key, you lose all power to the radio. Also, I mentioned the wire colors just in case you used an aftermarket radio wiring harness. Make sure that the yellow from the Pioneer unit is going to the battery power source and, the red of the Pioneer is going to the switched power source.
The four RCAs are for the speaker outputs.They plug into the rear of the Pioneer unit (front and rear outputs). Also, you didn't mention the model number of the wiring harness (necessary to properly diagnose the situation) but, some these units have one or two philips head dials to adjust the volume of the stereo and the volume of the chime. These dials may be on the side of the unit or, oyu may need to open the casing to see them.
get a variable power supply(ac to dc) that will get you 11-14 volts . You wont need a lot of amperes to run the deck.I had a buddy that just used a little car battery charger in his shop when he was jammin in there-kinda ghetto but hey it worked fine
that plug at the back is not for sat radio. It is for use with steering wheel controls. You have the blue plug at rear of stereo and that is the plug for sat radio. Ericson electronics is contracted to build the sat compatible units that wire into this radio through the blue. plug. if you are using 3.5 plug audio control from a portable sat receiver, the you will need to buy an aux input cable for your stereo..
This radio has no IP-Bus (Pioneer's peripheral plug in) plug on the back of the unit or any connection for USB or 1/8" stereo headphone jack on it. You will not be able to conect an iPod to this unit. Visit the website at www.pioneerelectronics.com to see their current iPod solutions. They have multiple head units that allow for you to charge iPod and iPhones as well and give you control through the head unit or through the iPod itself.
I will assume that none of those wires are marked, thus leaving you with the cumbersome task of tracing each wire to its place of origin and properly marking them.
I will also assume that you have a standard hardware configuration whereas the in-dash head unit serves as an input selector and pre-amp for your aux.CD/DVD unit.
A possible shortcut would be to first identify the two power leads( one is a constant 12+ volts & one is a switched 12+ volts that is a remote power lead from the head unit) and the ground that was ran to the missing amp, mark and separate those from the group. Then with a test speaker trial and error those remaining signal (speaker) wires with the in-dash CD player on and loaded so as to find that units signal outputs (there may be more then one pair) You will need to identify left and right output signal pairs by adjusting the head units L & R control and marking those wires accordingly. Next with a pair of signal leads with output, temporarily connect them to all of the other unidentified signal pairs as to determine its speaker and marking them accordingly. At this point you should be able to make your left and right speaker connections.
Note: it will be wise to have a DC voltage tester to check for the missing amp power leads and signal polarity especially if you plan to install a new amp.
Please explain in more detail. You have a power INVERTER, from 12vDC to AC HOUSE CURRENT?
Or You have a CONVERTOR (aka Transformer) to CONVERT AC House current into 12v DC? Your best option is to buy a battery charger, pull it in the backyard, and hook up the battery charger while you are listening. REMEMBER to use the ACCESSORY position on the key switch, to avoid possible damage to the cars ignition system! Leaving the Ignition coil charged (ON) for long periods of time without the engine running can cause it to overheat and possibly render itself useless.
Now you know what the ACC position is for on the automobile.