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Tool to wedge rubber strip into screen door groove

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This is what you need.

Obviously, you don't need a 10 pack but you should be able to buy a single one at your local store.

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

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Output comes then decrease the output


That's because the Electrolytic Capacitors inside the SMPS are breaking down.

Specifically Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

A Capacitor slowly builds up a charge, then releases it all at once.
(Although it happens in milliseconds. Millionths of a second)

Think of a large swimming pool being filled up by a garden hose, then one wall is taken down all at once.

Capacitors are used in flash units for cameras. (Slowly being phased out)

The basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor, is;

A) Outside case: Thin aluminum. Like a Coca-Cola can with the top, and bottom cut out.

B) Top: Thin aluminum flat disk. Has a lK or X shape etched partway into it.
This is the Vent Cover.

C) Bottom: Thin flat synthetic rubber disk. The Positive and Negative lead pokes through it.
This is the Bung.

D) There are three strips inside. (Basic construction)
1) One strip is of foil thin metal, and has the Positive lead connected to it.
This is the Conducting strip.

2) One strip is also thin foil metal, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it. It has the Negative lead connected to it.
This is the Non-Conducting strip.

3) The last strip is a paper-like medium, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The paper-like strip is laid in-between the two metal strips, and all three are rolled up tightly.
There are many layers of this construction inside the capacitor.

When the capacitor starts to fail, it's because the Electrolytic Paste inside is developing gas. Hydrogen Gas.
The gas expands inside the capacitor's case, and the build-up of pressure eventually compromises the seals.

Either breaks the lK or X shape open in the Vent Cover at the top, or pushes one side of the rubber-like Bung down.
Electrolytic Paste starts oozing out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates in a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

Capacitors are used as Filters inside the Switched- Mode Power Supply,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ATX_power_supply_interior-1000px_transparent.png

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

This is NOT an invite to open the Power Supply, and attempt repair.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Dec 07, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

My picture on my monitor has a black strip on the right side throwing my start off the screen


Can you open the little door on your monitor? Maybe the adjustment that shifts your screen from the left to right?

Dec 25, 2011 | Dell 2350-DHB7R21 PC Desktop

1 Answer

I have a broken transistor on my motherboard.. is it possible to repair?


For the life of me I cannot think where a single lone transistor, would be used on the motherboard of a desktop computer.

Electrolytic Capacitors, Solid Capacitors, (Polymer usually), Choke Coils, Integrated Circuits, Diodes, etc, but not transistors.

I believe your reference is to an Electrolytic Capacitor.
A Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

But, the answer is yes in both cases.
Transistor, or Electrolytic Capacitor.

1) http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

2) http://www.capacitorlab.com/replacing-motherboard-capacitors-howto/index.htm

3) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

In link 3 above you can see the difference between an Axial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor, and a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

Look at the second photo down on the right.
The Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor has both leads coming out of the bottom.

Basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor:

Essentially it is a small aluminum can filled with three strips, and capped off with a flat aluminum disk on top, (Vent Cover), and a flat rubber disk on the bottom. (Bung)

The case is like a Coca-Cola can open at the top, and bottom.
The top is capped off with a flat, thin, aluminum disk that has a K or X etched part way into it.
The bottom is a synthetic rubber flat disk called the Bung.

The first strip is a thin foil metal strip. It is the Conducting Strip.
It has a lead (Wire) attached to it, and this lead is the Positive lead.

The second strip is also metal foil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
It is the Non-Conducting strip.
The Negative lead is attached to it.

The last strip is of a paper-like substance, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The paper-like strip is placed in-between the two metal foil strips, and all three are rolled up tightly, then inserted down into the aluminum can case.
The two leads, Positive and Negative, are inserted down through the synthetic rubber Bung.

When an Electrolytic Capacitor goes bad, one of two things happen with the Electrolytic Paste.
One it dries up.
or
Two it creates a gas.

The gas created is Hydrogen Gas. The gas expands, and eventually pushes Electrolytic Paste out of the capacitor.

The top vent cover's etched shape, K or X, breaks open, and paste oozes out,
and/or
one side of the rubber Bung disk pushes down, and out, and paste oozes out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

Capacitors are rated in Voltage, and Capacitance.

How much Voltage is the MAXIMUM they can use, and what the maximum capacitance rating is for them.
Capacitance, for the size of capacitors used on a desktop computers motherboard, are rated in MicroFarads. uf

The Voltage and Microfarad's are marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.
It may be plainly stated, (Printed/Stamped), or in a manufacturer's code.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-to-Identify-Japanese-Electrolytic-Capacitors/595

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/164

I lay the motherboard upside down on my lap. I then use a clean, well tinned soldering iron, (50 Watt or less), to melt a solder joint on one lead of the capacitor.

I have solder wick ready, and waiting to 'soak' up the solder as soon as it melts.
(Solder Wick = Soldering Braid. A bunch of thin copper wires woven into a braid )
You are just trying to remove as much excess solder as you can.

I prefer Soldering Braid (Solder Wick) over a Desoldering Tool. (Solder S-ucker Tool)

A tip of the soldering braid is laid over the solder joint, (Half a fingernail width), so that the braid covers the entire solder joint.
Then the soldering iron tip is laid on the soldering wick, right above the solder to be removed.
When the solder melts, and the braid soaks it up, the braid is quickly removed.

The small length of braid can only be used so many times. I cut the solder soaked area off after using it one time, and use a fresh area when going to remove some more solder.

You aren't going to remove all of the solder in the solder joint. Just enough so that when the solder joint is heated again, it won't flow back into your way when trying to remove the capacitor.

The thin, tiny copper strips going along the motherboard are Circuit Traces.
If you linger too long with the soldering iron, you can burn a circuit trace, and lift it right off of the motherboard, rendering it useless.

You can also heat the circuit trace area where the solder joint is, too much, and this will cause the circuit trace to Not accept solder anymore. (It is 'burned')
{The copper circuit trace is overheated, and will not 'tin' anymore. If it doesn't accept solder we have a problem, Houston}

You are just trying to heat the solder joint enough to remove some of the solder.

Melt the solder on the other lead, and remove as much excess solder as you can with the soldering wick.

Lay the motherboard turned over on your lap, so the bottom side is facing up and the capacitor leads are facing up.
Hold onto the capacitor with your fingers, and thumb, on the top side of the motherboard.

Use the front of your fingers, and the side of your thumb for a fulcrum, with the tips of your fingers, and thumb applying pressure against the capacitor. (Pressure = Gently prying the capacitor away from the motherboard)

Heat the remaining solder on one lead of the capacitor until it melts, and ease THAT lead out of the motherboard a LITTLE. It will only go so far as the other lead is still soldered in.

Now go to the other lead, and melt the remaining solder. Pull it up, and out of the motherboard a little.
Keep alternating back, and forth until one by one, the leads come up out of the motherboard.

The solder joint area on the circuit trace, where the capacitor lead was removed from, (Essentially a copper ring around a hole in the motherboard) needs to be cleaned, and re-tinned with solder.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol, and a small solder flux, and acid brush, to start cleaning the circuit trace area around the motherboard hole.

[ CAUTION!
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE, and burns colorless.
Use in a Well ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present ]

This helps to remove residue. I then carefully brush the circuit trace area around the hole with steel wool.
Follow with a light tinning on this area.

[ Tinning: Solder is applied in a light coat ]

NOTE*
A capacitor has a Positive lead ( + ), and a Negative lead. ( - )
The Negative lead is the one marked on the outside plastic sleeve of the capacitor.

When you remove the bad capacitor, make SURE you know which hole is for the Positive lead.
If you put the leads back into the wrong holes with the new capacitor, the capacitor will explode when you fire the motherboard up. (Turn the computer on)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

If it is a transistor we are 'talking' about the procedure above still applies. IF you were going to keep the transistor, you would use a Heatsink on it's leads on the Top side of the motherboard, close to the transistor itself.

For additional questions please post in a Comment. (Believe upper right of your page. Our website is undergoing improvement changes)

Regards,
joecoolvette

Sep 11, 2011 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

When i turn on my computer the screen stays black as if it's off however, the computer is working fine. Sometime it flashes on but the goes back to black.


I suggest that your computer isn't working fine, it just appears to be.

But to know for certain you need to first diagnose whether the problem is the computer, or the monitor, or monitor cable.
Do you have another monitor and monitor cable available to use for a test?

If you have a VGA monitor, (Also known as CRT. Looks like a small TV), most likely the monitor cable does not disconnect.
For this test you would need another VGA monitor with cable.

If you have a flat screen LCD monitor, most of the time the monitor cable is changeable.
You can first use a Known to be good monitor cable, then if this doesn't work, use a Known to be good LCD monitor along with the good cable.

Still no progress?

Then the problem is the computer.
Bad Power Supply. Weak voltage power rail.
One of the leading causes of computer failure.

Also from the symptom stated it matches.

With a Power Supply that has a weak voltage power rail, (Or more than one), you will have enough power to light LED lights, and perhaps spin fans, but Not enough power to turn the Processor on.

1) ALL of the LED lights on at once use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use from 51 to 125 Watts of power.
Depends on what Processor it is.

This is why the computer may appear to be working fine, but in reality isn't.

Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail will run the Processor for a very short time, then not have the power to keep the Processor on.

How?
Power Supply's used in todays desktop computers are SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply.

There are Electrolytic Capacitors used as Filters in the Power Supply.
They filter the incoming AC electricity, and the outgoing DC electricity to the computer components.

[ Electrolytic Capacitors are in the Input Stage, and Output Stage of a typical SMPS.

1) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

2) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ATX_power_supply_interior-1000px_transparent.png

You can click on the photo to enlarge.
B shows Electrolytic Capacitors in the Input Stage of this typical SMPS. { Blue and 2 of them}
E shows more Electrolytic Capacitors used in the Output Stage ]

Electrolytic Capacitors can break down. They can operate in a weak stage as they are breaking down, for a small time period. Eventually they break down all the way, and fail.

This is how a Power Supply can work sometimes, then eventually one day it does not.

To explain Electrolytic capacitor break down, and failure:

Typical construction of an Electrolytic Capacitor;

Basic,
Three strips are rolled up tightly together, and inserted into a small aluminum 'can' case.
There is a rubber seal on the bottom of the case, and a seal on top of the case that can break open in the middle.

The three strips are;
1) A Conducting Strip
Thin metal foil usually made of aluminum. This is the Positive strip.

2) A Non-Conducting strip also made of thin metal foil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.

3) A paper-like strip that is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The Electrolytic paste soaked strip is put in the middle the Conducting strip, and the Non-Conducting strip, and all three strips are rolled up tightly.

At the bottom of the aluminum 'can' case is a synthetic rubber, flat disk shaped seal.
This is called the Bung.

There is a lead, ('Wire') going through the Bung to the Conducting strip. This is the Positive lead.
There is one more lead going through the Bing to the Non-Conducting strip. This is the Negative lead.

At the top of the 'can' case is a flat disk shaped, aluminum metal seal. This seal has an X, or Y shape etched part way into it.

As an Electrolytic Capacitor fails the Electrolytic Paste develops a gas.
Hydrogen gas.
The gas expands inside the aluminum 'can' case, and with enough pressure developed, the seal on top, and/or bottom are compromised.

The X or K shape that is etched partway into the metal disk on top, breaks open, and/or the synthetic rubber disk shape on bottom has one edge pushed out of the 'can' case.

This allows the gas to push Electrolytic Paste out of the 'can' case.
So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates in a weakened state.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

Apologizes for the 'Windy' dissertation, but I thought it would be better to know what is going on, than receive a "Replace the Power Supply"

With No processor operating you essentially have No computer.
No computer operating = No Signal to the monitor.
(No video signal)


Need guidance in replacing the Power Supply, or suggestions for a Power Supply so you can compare, post in a Comment. (Believe upper right of your page)

Regards,
joecoolvette

Dec 01, 2010 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

My laptop screen is dark. I plug the laptop in a power strip in the family room and the screen works fine. I put it back in the other room, plug it into the power strip and the screen does not come on. The...


You have created a power drop with too much load on that circuit or you have a bad receptacle. Try plugging it in directly to the wall outlet in the other room. Let me know if this is helpful, we can go further if necessary.

Nov 08, 2010 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

My pc keeps on restarting after loading the xp screen


Disconnect any new devices you may have recently added and boot the PC.

As its booting press the F8 key several times, this should bring up several boot options. Choose "Safe Mode" .

This will bring up windows in a stripped down form, once complete click on start - all programmes - accessories - system tools - system restore (This is for XP, vista and win7 are a little different)

Restore to a date prior to when all the problems started.

Jul 04, 2010 | Packard Bell iMedia 6826 (P481000502) PC...

2 Answers

It went to welcome screen and after i typed in my password, got a black screen that says insert disk and press F1 or press F2 and something about setup.


This happens whenever one closes any installation prematurely. Insert the disk then properly cancel or complete the setup and restart the computer you wont get this message.

Jun 22, 2010 | Dell Dimension 2350 PC Desktop

2 Answers

Dvd tray on Dell Inspiron 530 hard drive not opening. The dvd in the tray is not loose because the program runs so it's not the dvd preventing the opening process. The "door" tries to open and when I...


from what it sounds like.... its a gear problem. see, inside your dvd drive, there are a set of gears, and a little "rubber band" that opens and closes the dvd drive. either A). a gear has stripped itself(or broken) or b.) that "rubber band" has broke, and has gotten itself stuck(probably in the gears). Good luck, and i hope that it wasn't an important disk.

Feb 23, 2010 | Dell Inspiron 530 Desktop Computer

1 Answer

Looking for manual or instructions for disassembly/reassembly so that I can replace the damaged power jack.


I repair a lot of laptops. I have found through the years, that they all seem to follow a basic disassembly pattern. Although access to the cooling tube/heatsink/fan combo, and processor, for some of the laptops, is through the bottom, it is just for those hardware components.
To disassemble these type of laptops, you still have to come down from the top.
One laptop I have so far not had the fortune of working on, is a Balance Digital Technology laptop.
I 'googled' a few models just now, and they look to be the same as many HP, or Compaq, or IBM, or Toshiba, or on and on, models I have worked on.

The first thing you need to do, is remove the AC adapter, (if plugged in), and the battery.
Then turn the laptop over, and remove the harddrive, the memory compartment cover, and memory modules, (ram sticks), and any other removable compartment cover, or removable device.

I use a clean egg carton, and label each egg holder as to where what area, the screws came from, and put the various screws in these egg holders. There may be as many as ten or more, different types of screws, and could be up to 50 screws or more.
(Doesn't sound very 'Techie', huh? I work on a lot of laptops, and can just throw these egg cartons away when done)

I also suggest you use a digital camera, or video camera, and good lighting, as you go along. (If available) Helps to reference later as to what went where, and in what order. I also suggest making notes and drawings. Make them legible enough so that you will understand them later.

Turn the laptop over to it's normal position. There is a plastic strip above the keyboard. It's under the LCD screen. This strip may have speakers in it, and/or LED lights.
This plastic strip has tabs going around the edge of it. These tabs keep it snapped in place. I take a flat tip jewelers screwdriver, and ease it in a little bit, where the plastic strip meets the body of the laptop. Just get it under the edge, and carefully pry up. If you can't get it in, move over. You might be right at where one of those tabs are.

You may only be able to ease it up just a little bit, and have to use another small flat instrument to hold this raised part up. Then take your flat tip, and go to another place close to it. Try to pry that part of the edge up.
When the strip first pops up, it comes up with a "Crack' sound. You'll think you broke it, but you could run a truck over this plastic part!
Each time you get the strip up, and a tab comes up, 'Crack'. Kind of unsettles your nerves until you get used to it!

Work around the edge of this strip. Keep popping it up as you go around. Eventually it will come up and off. Look for wires. There are small plastic White connectors. You can ease these little connectors apart with your fingernails. The connectors are different sizes, and have different pins. There's no mixing them up when it's time to reassemble.

The hard part is over now. You should see a screw, or screws to remove the keyboard. It comes up at a 45 degree angle, and is removed at this angle. NOT straight up! After you get it up a little, BE careful! There is a tiny wire harness that the connectors need to be taken apart.

Now you should see a metal shield. This has screws. After this, you remove all the screws you see, and remove all the case screws from the bottom side. Look for 'hidden' screws in the memory compartment area, and the other compartments.

The LCD screen hinges will have plastic covers on them. There may be ascrew that holds each cover on. Most of the time they pop off, like the flat plastic strip did. There will be screws on the front side ofr the LCD screen hinges, and screws on the back side. They may have rubber covers over the screws. They are usally held on with a type of rubber cement. You just take your flat tip, and ease them off.

Apr 13, 2009 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

How to take the Sony VGC-LS35E lcd screen out


You are indeed brave, most of the cases and notebooks are put together with interlocking plastic joints that must be pried apart after basic screws are removed. We who do this all of the time (20+ years of support) use a nylon wedge tool so we won't scratch the cases which we lovingly refer to as the case cracker. In a pinch a small screwdriver will work if used with GREAT CARE. Since China bought IBM's PC business I have given up on their support. Products are good though.

Mar 11, 2009 | Sony Computers & Internet

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