Question about U-Line Icemaker

3 Answers

Replace the thermostat or temp control

How do you remove the temperture sensor tube from the ice maker? Does it just pull out or is it fastened somehow? It seems to be stuck. I did not want to just **** it out if it has something holding it in. This is on a WCM48 model U-Line.

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  • kralla Jun 26, 2008

    I figured it out. You just pull it out. Thanks anyway.

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3 Answers

I just installed a wcm 48,, and the water to the tray will not shut off???? is it a relay somewhere??

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

I just installed a wcm 48,, and the water to the tray will not shut off???? is it a relay somewhere??

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

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I found out that it just pulls out. It was a little corroded, which was why it was hard to come out. Also, when it was installed it was not very straight, which made it bind. Thank you.

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

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1 Answer

Can it be repaired-not making ice


Ice makers can be repaired. Sometimes it is cheaper and more cost effective to just replace the entire unit for about 50 dollars or less on ebay.

If the freezer temperature is not low enough your ice maker will make ice in tray but not empty it into the tray since the interior temp has to be about 10 degrees for the thermostat to activate the unload cycle.

If there is no ice in the tray perhaps the water line to unit is clogged or the solenoid that feeds the water to unit is malfunctioning. Or, maybe the cam mechanism of the ice maker that controls the solenoid is fubar.

Mar 11, 2015 | Ice Makers

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Model C0330SA-1A sump temp sensor failure


Sump temp sensor is not reading water temperature of water running over evaporator plate.This sensor is located in the water supply tube that runs up to the top of the evaporator plate. just pull the sensor out of the tube and replace it.

Jul 10, 2014 | Scotsman C0330SA-1A 350 Lb Half Size Cube...

1 Answer

Ice maker calls for water before the last water makes ice.


Hi,

I recently ran into this issue at our shop, I called the factory and they suggested to replace the thermostats and temp control to the ice maker. This was not the case, apparently there are two different ice makers that look identical but they are different in how they run. Verify you have installed the correct one for this unit, or this issue can happen.

Good Luck

Mar 28, 2014 | U-Line Icemaker

1 Answer

Where are the bin full sensors located for cme256ws-1c full light on will not make ice


The bin full sensors are located behind the water sump tray. Pull the front cover off remove the white plastic guard. Remove the ice deflector grate that is in the water sump tray. Now look where the ice falls down into the bin to the right and left side there is where the bin sensors are you have to pull them sideways you can also open the control panel and look where the bin sensor wire runs and follow it. pull the bin sensors and clean the eyes or replace them.

Jan 03, 2012 | Scotsman Ice Maker CM3 30inW Cubed Ice...

1 Answer

It does not cool or makes ice


Hi

Investigate each of these two areas if your ice-maker is not making ice;

1. Water Inlet Valve
2. Defrost Thermostat

Water Inlet Valve: Your ice maker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer.

An ice maker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.

Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.

Follow the below directions to test your water inlet valve;

Before you begin to test your ice maker's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this test.

1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.

2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.

3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.

4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.

5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.

6. If the test you conduct with your ice maker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.

Defrost Thermostat ;
It could just be that your freezer thermostat is not set low enough. Try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. Or your ice maker might not be making ice because of a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine if it has malfunctioned. If it has, you will need to replace it.

Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost thermostat;

Before you begin to test your defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.

1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.

2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.

3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.

4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.

5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.

Follow the above closely and I believe it should guide you in solving the problem;

I hope this helps.

Good luck.

Mar 30, 2011 | Scotsman DCE33PA1BC 15in Built-in...

1 Answer

My icemaker will get cold but wont make ice.


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Here is what the manual says:


3. Icer-ette freezes but water does not come into mold; no ice production.
_____________________________________________________________

3A. Nonfunctioning water valve assembly. 3A. Clean or replace solenoid valve assembly.

3B. Mold heater assembly. 3B. Contact Raritan Technical Support.

3C. Water supply turned off. 3C. Provide pressurized water.

3D. Icemaker module. 3D. Replace icemaker module.

3E. Cold control. 3E. Replace cold control.
3F. Bad wiring harness plug contacts. 3F. Contact Raritan Technical Support.*

Although this is for troubleshooting non optical sensor refrigerators:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34
The troubleshooting procedures for cycling the unit are exactly the same,
The ice maker module part number for the 120V unit is PN 628366 (do a net search for this part number and save yourslef a bumch of money if you fetermine your moduleis bad) You start the harvest cycle by removing the front cover and then jumpering test points T to H. The white dial will begin to move if there is power to the module. Remove the jumper when the sweep arm reaches 5" o'clock and let the ice maker automatically cycle. It should harvest, and fill in on complete turn of the white dial. If it does not fill you probably have a water supply or water valve problem. There is an inline input power fuse for the ice maker. Power should come in via the red wire.

Mind you the ice maker has an internal thermostat behind the module assy that has to reach 15 deg F to start the harvest cycle. When you jumper T to H you are bypassing the thermostat. If the thermostat fails or the unit does not reach 15 deg F then the harvest cycle will never begin.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly



.


Nov 25, 2010 | Raritan Icer-ette Ice Cube Maker

1 Answer

English instructions for saivod fhs186 ice maker


DO THE BASICS:
Change the water filter
Add ice machine cleaner and go by the directions.
What should be kept clean?
There are 5 things to keep clean:
1. The outside cabinet & door.
2. The ice storage bin.
3. The condenser.
4. The ice making system.
5. The ice scoop.
The ice storage bin should be sanitized
occasionally. It is usually convenient to sanitize the
bin after the ice making system has been cleaned,
and the storage bin is empty.
A sanitizing solution can be made of 1 ounce of
household bleach and two gallons of hot (950F. -
1150F.) water. Use a clean cloth and wipe the
interior of the ice storage bin with the sanitizing
solution, pour some of the solution down the drain.
Allow to air dry.

How to clean the condenser.
The condenser is like the radiator on a car, it has
fins and tubes that can become clogged. To clean:
1. Remove the kickplate.
2. Locate the condenser surface.
3. Vacuum the surface, removing all dust and lint.
Caution: Do not dent the fins.
4. Replace the kickplate.
Winterizing
1. Clean the machine as explained on the next
page.
2. Turn off the water supply.
3. Drain the water reservoir. See page 24, Spray
Pump Repair and follow the instructions to remove
the pump hose (step 2, bottom hose only).
4. Disconnect the incoming water line at the inlet
water valve.
5Remove control box cover and turn the timer
into the harvest cycle.
6. With the machine operating, blow air through
the inlet water valve; a tire pump could do the job.
7. Drain pump models should have about 1¤2 gallon
of RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) poured into the
ice storage bin drain.
Note: Automotive antifreeze must NOT be used.
8. Replace control box cover. Switch off and
unplug the machine.

CUBE ADJUSTMENTS
There are three items that may be adjusted: Cube
Size, Harvest Time, and Bin Level. Note: Cube
Size and Harvest Time adjustments should only be
done by a qualified service person.
Cube size control.
The cube size control should only be adjusted to
bring the cubes to the correct shape, the overall
size cannot be adjusted. Try to adjust the cube
size control when the ice machine is in the harvest
cycle, or in the first 10 minutes of the freeze cycle.
1. Open the door and remove the control box
cover.
2. Locate the cube size adjustment screw, and to
make fuller cubes, turn the screw clockwise about
1/4 turn. This will make the freezing cycle longer.
3. To shorten the freezing cycle and make cubes
that are not as full, turn the adjustment screw 1/4
turn counterclockwise.
4. After the next freezing cycle, the cubes should
have responded to the adjustment, if another
adjustment is required, do it early in the freeze
cycle.


Diagnostic Codes
Code Description
F - - - - - - - Freeze Cycle
F flashes- - - - Freeze Cycle is Pending
H - - - - - - - Harvest Cycle
H flashes- - - - Manual Harvest
b - - - - - - - Bin is Full
C - - - - - - - Clean Cycle
L - - - - - - - Board Locked
d - - - - - - - Test Mode
O - - - - - - - Off
E - - - - - - - Self Test Failed
1 flashes- - - - Max Freeze - Retrying
1 - - - - - - - Max Freeze Time Shut Down
2 flashes- - - - Max Harvest - Retrying
2 - - - - - - - Max Harvest Time Shut Down
3 - - - - - - - Slow Water Fill
4 - - - - - - - High Discharge Temp
5 - - - - - - - Sump Temp Sensor Failure
7 - - - - - - - Discharge Temp Sensor Failure
8 flashes - - - Short Freeze - Retrying
8 - - - - - - - Short Freeze - Thin ice
All 4 Upper Lights Flashing - Unit Remotely Locked Out

Jul 14, 2010 | Scotsman Ice Maker CM3 30inW Cubed Ice...

1 Answer

I need instructions on how to remo complete ice


Ok
You have 2 screws on the side wall. 3 screws on the bottom of the mold. You will need to remove the back panel and unhook the wires and pull the sensor wire out from behind the icemaker. Sensor just sits in tube. Then go back in front and turn the icemaker towards the center. you will have to clean the alumalastic off. Where old cloths to do this.
I hope the helps you. Make sure the icemaker you have looks the same as the old one.

Jun 28, 2009 | U-Line Icemaker

1 Answer

How to replace the ice maker unit.


I just RR'd mine. Undo the three screws on the bottom of the metal piece that the ice maker sits on, then the two screws that are horizontle above the . Take of the back, withdraw the termocouple from the tube that goes through the foam, clip the wires (5) leaving enough of a pigtail to crimp a **** splice to the new ones. Withdraw the fill tube. Don't lose the clay that seals the holes through the insulation. Withdraw the ice maker by gently twisting and pulling straight out. Replace in reverse order. Getting the screws back in is a little tricky.

Jul 08, 2008 | U-Line BI-95

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