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Water leaking from spout 1/4" on pump, it looks like there was a screw there or some small part for venting. this is not a hose connection

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REPLACE THE PUMP, THE SEAL IN THE PUMP WAS LEAKING

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

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2 Answers

Water leaking from bottom of my WFL2860 during draining


Check the hose clamp connection on the water pump.

Aug 03, 2011 | Bosch Washing Machines

2 Answers

Water leaks (drips ) into tub after cycle/spin is complete


You have a bad pressure switch or the small hose connecting to the pressure switch may be bad

If the washer leaks water when is filling only, check the following: 1.Fill hoses
2.The water mixing valve

3.Filling injector ( If your washer uses one )
4.Filling spout


If the washing machine leaks during the wash cycle, check the following:
1.The pump
2.The tub stem & seal
3.Tub to pump hose
4.The drain hose
5.Tub (rusted holes)
6.The drum support bolts


If the washing machine leaks during the spin cycle, check the following:
1.The drain hose
2.The tub cover seal
3.The pump
4.The pump hoses

5.The stem & seal
6.The drum support bolts

Feb 10, 2008 | Maytag LAT2300 Top Load Washer

Tip

How to repair washing machine easily


Figure A: Common leak locations
These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.
Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!
Back to Top
Replace leaky supply hoses
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines. " title="Unscrew the water supply hoses " style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Unscrew the water supply hoses
Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines.
The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.
CAUTION!
Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
Back to Top
Replace leaky internal hoses
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again. " title="Photo 1: Look inside the machine" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Look inside the machine
Unscrew the access panel from the back of the machine or open the cabinet. Look for leaks while the machine fills with water. If you don't see any, advance the machine to the agitate cycle and check again.
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.
Back to Top
Replace a leaky pump
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby. " title="Photo 1: Loose the bolts" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Loose the bolts
Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.
Back to Top
Replace worn-out tub fittings
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back. " title="Photo 1: Lift the lid" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: rgb(66, 139, 202); text-decoration: none; bottom: 6px; height: 16px; position: absolute; right: 22px; width: 65px; background: url(http://www.familyhandyman.com/images/ProjectDetails/step_by_step/enlarge_button.gif) 0px -16px no-repeat scroll rgba(0, 0, 0, 0);">
Photo 1: Lift the lid
Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.
Buying Appliance Parts
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source iswww.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.
Metal ID plate
Back to Top
Tools & Materials
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start-you'll save time and frustration.
Hammer
Socket/ratchet set
4-in-1 screwdriver
Adjustable wrench
Putty knife
Slip joint pliers


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on Jul 14, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My admiral leaks as soon as the water turns on, it appears to be coming out of the housing unit for the hoses rather then the tub or the hoses.


There are a few places that a washer could be leaking:

1) the water valve itself, it may be cracked (most are plastic), or the hose connecting it to the spout may be loose.

2) the hose from the water valve to the spout (as above) could be loose from spout or water valve. It also may be cracked or have a cut in it from wear on other parts.

3) the spout may be damaged or loose from the back plate making it misaligned so the water spills over the side of the tub.

4) the washtub may be missing a spring that keeps it centered in the machine causing the fill spout to spray water over the side of the washtub.

5) There may be a leak in the tub, pump, hoses for the pump (not likely since when it leaks)

That's all that there is to leak when it does not leak all the time. (if it were all the time you could throw the supply hoses and valves in the mix.

Hope that helps

Oct 31, 2009 | Admiral AW22 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Water is leaking out from the bottom


If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
  • Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it. Replace if deemed necessary.
  • Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the household plumbing. Tighten it or replace it as necessary..
  • Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  • Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
  • Outer tub: The outer tub can rust, split, or be punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for details.
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
  1. Air-gap device: It is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you have to replace it.
  2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
  3. Inlet spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

Oct 26, 2009 | GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

I have a twenty year old Maytag washing machine that is leaking water out of the bottom of the machine. I have checked the hoses and it is not coming from there. Any ideas


hello. i can help you. unfortunately, your problem has numerous possible causes.
Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Jul 02, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dumps water on floor


Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Apr 26, 2009 | GE WJSR2070B Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag Neptune leaks several hrs. AFTER I finish using it.


Check the easy stuff first, fill hoses tight?- drain hose cracked?
Failing those checks, cut a piece of cardboard slightly smaller than the size of your washer. Slip the cardboard under the washer and run a short load. Look carefully at the water mark on the cardboard. The mark on the cardboard the water leak will leave, will help you tell from which side or front to back the leak is common from. This will help point you in the correct direction to look for the trouble maker.
if that is checked then ---------------
t leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Apr 03, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Washing machine leaks when not in use


It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Apr 29, 2008 | GE WWSR3090TWW

1 Answer

Whirlpool awm 049 washing machine


If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check the following:
Air-gap device: The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube:There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


Inlet spout:Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During spin cycle only:
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Look at the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Also, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make.


If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it.


Pump: If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

Main tub seal: The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


Outer tub:The steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, develope a hole in some way. If this happens, you may have to replace the outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Feb 07, 2008 | Washing Machines

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