Maytag 25.6 cu. ft. Wide-By-Side Refrigerator with PuriClean II Ice and Water Logo

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Posted on Jun 26, 2008
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Wide by side refirgertor side not getting cold

But we don't see frost on coils - freezer iscold though perhaps not fully since we have both settings very high

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    When you opened the cover, was the compressor running? Did it run while the door was open? Did it click and NOT run?
    The unit could have been in defrost mode at that time. Was there some water in the drip pan?
    If the compressor was running and no frost was on the coils, especially near the top, then cooling is not sufficient.

    The condenser coils need to be able to dissipate the heat, so an EXCEPTIONAL build-up of dust, dirt, and grime can hinder this. Most likely, that model has a condenser fan (condenser coil underneath), it needs to run when the condenser is hot.

    The compressor, when running properly can be very warm, but it should not be HOT as to burn. If it is too hot, or it clicks and does not run, or it runs for a few seconds then turns off, then you really need a service technician to come out. The compressor relay or the compressor is probably bad (hope for the relay).

    Coolant leaks (need to recharge the system) tend to be very rare on newer units, but it does happen. I would not suggest you try to add coolant, and its usally a quick-fix anyhow.

    Really the bottom line: If it can make ice, but the fridge is warm, then you need make room for the air to move around and into the fridge section.


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  • Expert 68 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 27, 2008
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Remember, the control for the cold food refrigerator is merely a vent control.

If you can get no frost on the coils while the compressor is running, you then look at the condenser then the compressor (coolant charge).

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Freezer side is cold but the fridge side is not getting cold

Luispinto243 --
The heat exchanger is in the freezer side of a refrigerator. If the cold air pathway has gotten frosted-up, or the blower is not working, the fridge side will get warm. If possible, fully defrost the unit and the frost/ice build-up will thaw-out and the fridge will start working again. Adjust the thermostat to the energy-saving position. Trying to lower the temperature will not fix the problem. If you are still having problems, write back. -- SWT
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Hi,

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

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  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


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If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
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Wide By side not cold enough

do you have frost on your freezer side i think you have a defrost issue it has a heater thermostat and timer if you got frost take the back freezer panel off and than on the uper part of your coils you'll see a round part that hooks on the refrigirent line its all silver plated around except the bottom is blue usually if that looks like it broke as in exploded and is falling appart thats what you need if it looks ok check the ressistance on your heater if ressistance reads infinite than you need a heater but of it reads a number than replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat even though it might not seem broken sometimes they work sometimes dont right befire they are about to go bad all the way 
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Maytag wide by side

Sounds like a defrost problem or dirty coils under the machine. Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer/control board
  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items. 
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Refrigerator not getting cold - freezer still pretty cold - perhaps not all the way [email protected] refrigerator not getting cold - freezer side is working

Sounds like a defrost problem or dirty coils under the machine. Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer/control board
  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items.  
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Sounds like a defrost problem or dirty coils under the machine. Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer/control board
  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items.  
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