Question about GE GSS20IEPWW / GSS20IEPCC Side by Side Refrigerator

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Click in circuit board Light in Icemaker dim bright Warm both sides

1: Refer and Freezer not cold
2: Clicking on Circuit board
3: Light on Icemaker.dims and brightens as it clicks. When I push lever on IM clicking goes away and all lights on door go out.
4:Turning fan by hand ;seems to not turn well ;hard to turn
There is no ice build up nor does the compressor or fan sem to want to come on. I have never had Icemaker hooked up to water and the switch is in the off position.
GE model GSS201EPJWW

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  • jondeere79 Jun 26, 2008

    Eagle Refrigerator and IM is Icemaker thanks

  • Anonymous Aug 25, 2008

    Light on Icemaker.dims and brightens as it clicks.

  • Anonymous Dec 13, 2008

    ice dispencer in door doesnt work also have a clicking noise in circuit board

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I didnt understand what you meant by refer(refrigirator???) and IM..??

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

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Zis480mnc ge monogram built in refer temp varies from 34 to 48 several times a day.


Try replacing that evap thermistor. The diagnostics on thermistors can be wrong. If it is rounded on the end, replace it. There is a damper between the freezer and refrigerator. There may be a refrigerator fan motor in the damper assembly, It could be bad. It could be a bad control board. When you run diagnostics there is one function that checks all the fans.

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Defrost problem folowup


bmurf, This adaptive defrost determined by compressor run time between defrost cycles. It could go up to 96 hours before defrost depending on differnt variables. With the unit running, a good frost on the evaportator and the tstat covered with frost or ice, unplug the refer. Pull the connector off the adaptive defrost board. On the harness, ohm from red to white/black stripe. If your tstat is good, you should read less than one ohm continuity. If it's bad, you probably will read around 240K ohms. This is the resistance of the resistor built into the tstat. On the live checks, plug in the refer. You are going to have 120VAC from Red to white. You also want to see 120V from white to white/black stripe. If you have that, the tstat is closed. If you have less than 120, say 96,100V. on white to red, that means you are dropping power through the 240K resistor built into the tstat. The board senses the tstat is open and no need to defrost. I hope this helps you out cat, thanks for the kind words on your post. Good luck, Catriver

Jul 25, 2007 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

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Hi, my side my side fridge freezer has just packed up, the temp reads cold enough but the fridge and the freezer parts are both warm :( plz help


While it could be the main control board, I would check for a defrost circuit failure first. If you take off the read shield of the freezer you will be able to see the evaporator coils. If that is a block of ice, then your defrost circuit is not doing its job and the ice is causing the thermostats to read the incorrect temperature.
The good news is that once you defrost the unit, you will have 2-3 weeks before the ice builds up enough to be a problem again. Which give you time to troubleshoot and order the replacement parts.

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I have a KitchenAid SxS model # KSRG25FTST01 with an icemaker problem. It stopped making ice, but the water still dispenses. It makes no noise and no water in the ice tray. I never hear it try to fill with...


If the thermostat behind the left side of the fill tray goes bad, the cycle will stop completely. Cost of thermostat is $20.00. Cost of new icemaker with new motor and everything including thermostat is $45.00, brand new, on EBay plus shipping. Cost for new icemaker from repair shop, $153.00 plus tax. Control board circuit panels each side of freezer compartment will go bad also stopping the ice maker cycle. these control boards come in pairs, one for each side of freezer compartment. Cost for new circuit panel control board from repair shop, $215.00. Cost from EBay brand new circuit control board $45.00 plus $8.00 shipping. Easy to install both, icemaker and control board circuit panels. Phillips screw driver and small socket set is all you need for removing and installing these items.

Jan 22, 2011 | KitchenAid KSRS25IL Side by Side...

1 Answer

Loud ticking noise when i close freezer and lights on icemaker flash like a stobe light. fridge and freezer wont hold temp. ice amker and water dispenser dont work?


if your lights burned out recently and the digital temp read-out is now dark also,burned out lights will cause a power surge and will destroy the main-board circuit trace(mother-board), it is located in the back side of the refrigerator, in a small plastic case,when you remove it you will see a burned spot on the circuit board and the loud clicking sound is a relay on the board trying to latch to light the bulbs and operate the unit

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Door mounted ice dispenser does not work, lights dim when pushed cyclic "clicking" noise coming from back of unit which causes the lights inside as well as those plugged into same circuit to dim when it...


the clicking noise is your water valve operating, or not
if its causing the light to dim, your loosing ground
somewhere in the circuit.
juding by your diagnososis i would have to think your selector board on the freezer door is bad..
probaly a your shorted somewhere in the logic board
and thats why your loosing gorund

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Whirlpool refrigator side by side(2 doors side by side)


This sounds like the curcuit board has failed. No repair is able to be made to the board. Just replace the board and all should be fine..

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1 Answer

New Refer: refer isn't cool enough even on high & too much moisture in refer


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Common to all self defrosting is 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

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3 Answers

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I had a very similar problem- flickering light bulbs, shorting-out noises, electronic temperature displays not working. I had to replace a small circuit board (the "Electronic Control Board") accessed from the rear of the fridge. A relatively easy do-it-yourself job.

Refer to this link at PartSelect.com:
http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=2180152&SourceCode=1

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1 Answer

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I had the same problem. The light would dimly flicker and make a sort of clicking noise. It was still under warranty and the repair man had to replace a circuit board in the back. Not sure of what the cost would be if not under warranty. Hope this helps.

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