Question about Kenmore 5553 / 655532 / 55534 / 55539 Side by Side Refrigerator

5 Answers

No water to ice maker

We have a kenmore model 106.74252400. there is no water coming into the ice maker. we are getting water to the dispenser and to the filter. just took ice maker out and did not see any problems. all fans are working. freezer is freezing all other things. just not getting water to make ice. No water in Ice maker. Cycle will not start.Water dispensor OK. Water vales OK. Pulled Ice Maker unit, powered with 110 ac,everything looks OK.

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  • 2 more comments 
  • rbgris63 Jul 28, 2008

    Solution # 1 does not apply because I always keep my coils clean.
    Besides the water not filling the tray which should start the cycle right after ice being dumped, I noticed the red light next to the
    sensor beam binking two times. The trouble
    shooting sheet indicates this as a problem with
    the sensor beam being blocked which it is not.
    Could there be a problem with the sensor beam
    Richard Griswold

  • jkslade Nov 17, 2008

    i just changed out my ice-maker. it has been an hour...when will it fill?

  • strtserv2 Dec 06, 2008

    Ice maker not filling. I thawed the ice plug at the black rubber filler tube, and changed the filter.  I also reset the water filter system "yellow light" now green.

       There does not appear to  any reason for no ice, any suggestions.  This is a Kenmore side by side with a door dispenser for water and ice.

  • Anonymous Jan 11, 2009

    i have a frigidare refrigerator,they are installing a culligan good water machine in our home tomorrow. it will have a seperate line for drinking and going to the icemaker. can i get rid of my filter in refrigerator and run it direct. if so how?


5 Answers

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  • The water line that's attached to the back of the refrigerator. Make sure you have good water flow. If the flow is poor, repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water.

  • The water-inlet valve. Replace it if it has failed.

  • Posted on Jul 28, 2008

    • Kleanthis Mavropoulos
      Kleanthis Mavropoulos Jul 28, 2008

    • Kleanthis Mavropoulos
      Kleanthis Mavropoulos Jul 28, 2008

      The water-supply line enters a valve in the refrigerator that is controlled by an electric solenoid and sends water through a fill tube into a mechanized icemaker assembly. There, the water freezes and is dumped into an ice bin. When the bin is full, the ice lifts a bail wire that turns off the icemaker.
      If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work—or if the bail wire is lifted—the icemaker won't make ice. Also note that your home's water pressure must be strong enough to serve the needs of the icemaker (see your owner's manual).

      Here are a few steps you can take to get your icemaker working (be sure the bail wire above the ice tray is in the down position):

      1) If the icemaker doesn't make ice but you can see the arm swing into motion and you hear a buzz for about 10 seconds after it is finished, the water valve is asking for water that isn't arriving. This means the valve and the solenoid are probably okay, but the water supply is not. Be sure the water supply line isn't kinked behind or beneath the refrigerator (Ό-inch copper tubing is much better than plastic fill line).

      2) Check to see if something has caused ice to back up around the mechanism—this can cause the fill tube to freeze, blocking the mechanism. When ice cubes are small and seem to be getting smaller, it generally indicates a frozen fill tube.

      3) Check the water line that enters the back of the freezer for a blockage. Find the water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator or under the sink, turn it off, unscrew the copper line from the back of the refrigerator, put the copper line in a bucket, turn on the valve, and see if pressurized water pours out.

      4) Check the tap valve; a bad tap valve may cause the problem where the icemaker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a Ό-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can do this yourself, or call a repairperson or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.


    We had a problem with ice maker not making ice. After alot of concern it turned out we just needed to replace the filter.

    Posted on Aug 07, 2008

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    A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system.
    Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use thiscondenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush , and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
    A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
    To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
    After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
    If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

    Posted on Jul 27, 2008

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    It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off.

    Posted on Jun 26, 2008

    • micromaster
      micromaster Jun 26, 2008

        • If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire.

        • If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire.

      • The ice maker head assembly may have broken
        parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small
        plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice
        maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can
        just replace it.

      • The
        ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage
        using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! Also
        replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if
        either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. Also make
        sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the
        freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.


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    There r two possibilities..1.. being the fill nozzle is frozen. Thats the little black rubber hose hanging down from the ceiling of the freezer above the icemaker.2...the icemaker gear cud be broken . The ice maker will have to be removed to check this. Hope this helps!
    Thanks for using Fixya

    Posted on Jul 28, 2008

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    Posted on Jan 02, 2017

    • 1894 Answers

    SOURCE: no water to ice maker

    This could be because the ice is clumped in the ice bin. When the automatic defrost cycle occurs, heat is transferred to the freezer area. This can cause the cubes to melt slightly and refreeze back together. You can take the bin out and give it a good shake, or simply discard the cubes and start over with a fresh batch of ice cubes. By increasing the amount of food in the freezer compartment, you may be able to buffer the heat that comes from the defrost cycle and avoid clumping issues.
    If you have a large ice bin and hardly use any ice, it is possible that the cubes have gotten stuck together just from the weight of the cubes on top of others.

    Posted on Aug 11, 2008

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