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About the only thing you can do without a service tech looking at the unit is to check the capacitor. If it is bulging it has blown and you'll need a new one. If you are not comfortable working with electricity I'd take it to someone because, even unplugged, you could get harmed or worse just from handling the capacitor. If the problem is not the capacitor and the unit is getting power the chances are good the compressor itself has blown and you'll probably be better off buying a new unit rather than bearing the cost of a comrpessor replacement. That choice is, of course, up to you. Good luck.
A dehumidifier is functionally the same as an air conditioner. It has a compressor motor, which is a fairly high current draw item.
First of all, unless you are well versed in electrical repairs, you should unplug this unit and do not use it. This is a dangerous condition and a fire or electrocution could result.
One of four things is happening:
1) You have a wiring fault in the circuit your humidifier is plugged into. There is a loose connection in the circuit, causing a voltage drop, and the humidifier therefore has to pull much more current to start it's compressor. This is a very dangerous condition, as an electrical fire could result. Try plugging the unit into another circuit and see if it does the same thing.
2) the compressor of the humidifier is going bad and is shorting out internally. Time for a new unit.
3) Many compressor motors use a 'start capacitor' to help the motor get going. If this part has failed, the motor will try to start, but it will not be able to.
4) There is a fault in the power cord or controls of the humidifier. Just like #1 above, a loose connection could cause a voltage drop, making the unit draw high current.
most of these units are standard 110V units. If yours uses 220V (like an electric dryer), then it could have 'lost a phase' which is also a similar electrical issue.
Is the fan running and stopping before the unit completely quits?
If the fan quits the compressor won't run very long.
I would start with the fan motor or capacitor.
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the blower wheel to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced. r.
I had the same problem with an Ebac machine a few years ago. I figured that it would be worth trying a new capacitor - surely only a couple of ££ or $$. So I took the machine apart - loads of screws and bits of casing everywhere - bought a new capacitor (£14 !!!) and it still wouldn't run :-(
I suspect that the failed capacitor caused the electric motor driving the compressor to cook itself while stalled. It is now in the corner of the garage where it will stay until I need the space.
It's a real shame that our tendency to buy the cheapest products has driven down manufacturers standards to the point where stuff is carefully designed to last for its warrant period plus a day.
But I digress! My machine had the capacitor (400V, 2 uF) just next to the control circuit pcb. It was a black block about 2" x 1" x1/2" with two spade terminals on it. One had broken off. As I understand it, the motor doesn't "know" which way to turn without the capacitor, so it just sits and hums and overheats.
The bottom line (this one) is that an electrician may be able to tell you that the capacitor is defective, but that may already have killed the motor.
If these suggestions do help you solve the problem, please give my reply a rating to help others judge my knowledge. If they do not, please add a comment with more details so I can try to help
you further. Cheers, D
CHANCES ARE THE DUAL CAPACITOR HAS BLOWN APART...YOU WILL KNOW THIS IF THE SIDE WALL IS RUPTURED. THE CAPACITOR IS LOCATED TO THE RIGHT OF THE COMPRESSOR MOUNTED WITH 1/4 HEX SCREW..PART NUMBER WILL BE 50150115N001..AROUND $17-21.00.
the over-current relay is tripping out the compressor motor to prevent excessive current through motor windings. To prove this theory, open unit, find motor wires, disconnect wires from unit, and apply 120VAC to motor using external circuit-breaker source. Run 2 minutes max. If motor continuously turns, then relay is failing. Find it by tracing wires back to source and finding a small rectangular item. If motor again quits after 2 seconds, then this motor has an internal over-current self-resetting fuse that may be doing its job of preventing an electrical overload from a dead (shorted) motor.
this unit is very simular to an air conditioner except it has a humidistat instead of a thermistat.. if your handy with a continuity tester unplug the unit find the humidistat and check to see if its open or if its good then call the company at 1 800 322 3848 or contact the web site at email@example.com Good Luck