I had that "liquid slugging" problem going on about two months ago, when the sequencer did not turn the fan on, but the compressor was running anyway. It ran afor a few days like this before I discovered it.
Now I have the opposite problem- the fan works but the compressor tries t start... i guess it's every 60 seconds or so, but regardless, the compressor unit outside buzzes like it is trying to start, then nothing.
Is the whole comressor unit shot?
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Condenser fans cycle on and off to control the temperature/pressure of the refrigerant in the condenser. This is normal operation.
As to cooler weather start up and tripping the breaker; how cold is it when you are running it? If it is too cold you could be pumping liquid refrigerant back to the compressor, slugging it and causing it to trip a breaker. However, many things can cause an air conditioner to over-amp and trip a breaker but this tends to be more problematic as the weather is hotter.
I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.
You can but the unit will have not control over temperature, and you can cause the unit to freeze up or slug the compressor w/ liquid refrigerant causing premature compressor failure. I would recommend replacing the thermostat if it is not holding proper temperature, but if dead set on bypassing it use a volt/ohm meter after unplugging it to find the normally open contacts and wire those wires together taking into consideration that the fan must run constantly with the compressor.
It is always best to charge 410a as a liquid to ensure that you get the proper mixing of the refrigerant...just turn the can upside down and take your time adding the liquid slowly...with the unit running.
Hi, It is not uncommon for the suction line on a unit to have ice on it when cooling. This means that where the ice starts forming on the line, there is liquid freon there. But, if it continues to get worse, would indicate a problem as you don't want liquid freon to enter the compressor as it will burn out the valves, or slug it as we say. Icing of this line can be from a few things. Low on freon will cause it to ice up. The freezer fan/evaporator fan motor not working. The freezer iced over real bad. An over charged system will do this, but you haven't had to charge it. Check the fan I mentioned and keep an eye on this line and monitor the units temperature. If you start to loose your cooling then we need to go from there. I can't prevent it from forming ice unless I was on site to install my service gauges to check the internal condition. Please keep me posted though. If the freezer fan is not running, this would be the problem and would need to be replaced. If you had excess to a volt meter and it wasn't running, you could check power to this motor. Let me know if it is not running and check the temperatures closely. Good Luck, Shastalaker7
When you shut it off and back on it slugged the compressor if you turn it off and back on before the pressures equalize between the high and low sides it will slug the compressor and it will not run should let sit for five minutes or so before restarting. The humming is either the compressor making noise usually common for the compressor to make some noise or the fan motor bearings are getting bad on the outside unit. If the unit works normal probably not much you can do till it breaks if it is the compressor it is more economical to replace the whole unit if it is just the fan motor it is worth changing. You could take an amp draw on the fan motor and the compressor to see if the are within the limits on the name plate of the outside unit.
When 13+ SEER condensers are replaced without installing a inside coil with an expansion valve the compressor in the new unit will slug and go bad. Slug means that liquid refrigerant returns to the compressor. Liquid can not be compressed so it causes the compressor to fail.
The high side/low side pressure equalization you describe is normal for a compressor sitting idle.
If you have an ohm meter you can check the compressor windings for opens and shorts. If your compressor is 3 phase as you state (this would be very unusual for a residential unit) you should have continuity across all 3 phases and no continuity to ground. Take the compressor out of the circuit before you check.
If the compressor does have crankcase heat, it should have been left on for at least 24 hours before starting the unit. Another cause for failure could be overcharging which could have resulted in refrigerant slugging back to the compressor.
Does the unit have any low or high pressure control safeties? If so, check them too - some have resets. You said the condenser fan ran so it's not likely the breaker blew, but check anyway and also check to make sure you have available power on all 3 phases.
Might try unplugging for a few hours and then plug it back in. There is a possibility that it slugged the compressor and there is a restriction in the line. Sometimes when the compressor fails to stop running in cold air the liquid gets back to the compressor. It can cause a bit of gunk to be picked up out of the oil and carried to the expansion line and plug up the line. Maybe turning it off will let the plug fall free and not replug the line. Worth a try anyway.....