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The amount of condensate depends upon the relative humidity of the air. When the humidity is high, the AC unit will create more condensate and when humidity is low less is created. As long as the AC unit is working properly, I would not get overly concerned about it.
This unit - like all A/C units, produces condensatiopn when warm, humid air is passed through the cooling coil. Below the coil is a pan that is designed specifically to catch the condensate (water) droplets, and a drain opening that should have a pipe connected that carries the condensate outside.
You should check outside to make sure the drain pipe is not blocked. Next, check the inside of the indoor portion to make sure there is nothing blocking the drain opening in the pan. It is not unusual for spiders to set up in these cozy areas in the offseason.
You will need to consult the manual (if needed) to learn how to remove the cover for access to the pan. Be sure to unplug the unit / shut off the circuit before beginning any work.
Once you've cleared the line, the condensate should empty outside as it did before. Good luck!
Water, or in this case - condensation will be created and drip from the cooling coils inside the unit outdoors, if installed correctly. This is a normal condition. Like a cold glass of water sitting on a table or counter on a hot, muggy day; condensation will form.
The amount of condensation forming on the glass - and cooling coils of the A/C - is directly related to the amount of humidity in the air.
Some A/C units have fans that not only force cool air out the front of the unit - but also spray condensate on the condenser coils (the coils that get hot and are visible from the outside) to help cool them down.
If water is dripping indoors - the A/C is tilted inward or drain holes on the bottom edges of the rear (outdoors) are clogged. Adjust the A/C support(s) so that it is tilted back (the bottom rear should be about 1/2" or 10mm lower than the bottom front) and inspect & clear obstructions from the drain holes as needed.
Part of an air conditioners job is to remove humidity from the air. The more humid it is, the moisture it will remove from the air. Some thru-the-wall/window air conditioners have fresh air vents. Ensure the fresh air vents are closed and make sure there is no air leakage around the unit & wall.
Keep your air filter and coils clean. If your unit has multiple blower speeds, use high speed during the more humid conditions.
I hope you find this information helpful moving forward. :-)
You have a low refrigerant (leak) problem or poor airflow due to dirty coils or bad fan motor. Maybe a combination of all 3. Check the coils for dirt and lint. Check the fan motor blower wheel for lint on the blades. Check the condensing unit refrrigerant operating pressure. Low side for R22 should be approximately 68 psi, R410 pressure should be approximately 135 psi.
CONDENSATE MAY FORM DUE TO AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED DRAIN LINE,EXCESSIVE HUMIDITY, MANY CODE ENFORCEMENT REQUIREMENTS DICTATE HAVING A DRAIN PAN UNDER THE AIR HANDLER,LOW AIR FLOW MAY CONTRIBUTE TO WATER PROBLEMS, DOES WATER DRAIN FROM THE DRAIN LINE?
The amount of water (condensate) that your unit produces is directly related to the setting you have the unit set to and the relative humidity of the air/
That being said it has been a much more humid summer this year almost everywhere, so I'd venture a guess that your A/C is working very well, based on the extra moisture (condensate) that it is pulling out of the air.
A/C and Dehumidifiers both tend to run longer and produce more condensate when having to deal with excessive humidity. But, that's what these machines were designed to do - extract moisture from the air where they are placed to keep us cool and dry feeling!
Enjoy the cool air and remember, Winter is coming!
Air conditioners rely on a difference in pressure between the "high side" and "low side" in order to perform. Of course, a/c's are designed to work in the heat. Having a cooler outdoor temp of 70 degrees probably is not sufficient to maintain adequate head pressure and will result in reduced cooling capacity. Also, since it was 68 in the morning in the room, it is possible that the indoor coil began to freeze up. Basically, you have a cold coil that you keep warm by moving air over it. If the air doesn't have enough specific heat (what your thermometer measures) it can allow the coil to get colder than 32 degrees and the condensate from all of your humidity will begin to freeze on the coil. My recommendation would be to check the a/c on a day that is 80+ degrees. If you have an avarage indoor temp of 70 degrees you should be able to look for the air coming out to be approximately 20-25 degrees colder than the air being sucked in.