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Ground cover I don't want a brick yard, I want a brick wall!!!!

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  • pmgca May 11, 2010

    can you describe what program are you using?



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OK, I saw you other post with the same question, so.... here is the solution

The textures going to the sky / grass is a classical issue of a videocard problem
Try to follow these steps
1 - Go to the website of your video card manufacturer (it can be found using any search engine and the manufacturer's name and the card model). Look for downloads, and see if you have the latest version of driver software for your model of video card (you can find your current driver's version at Video Settings->Advanced->Adapter). If there is a newer one for your card and the operating system, you are running, download and install it following the manufacturer's directions.
2 - Click on Start->Run and type in "dxdiag", and click Run. The DirectX diagnostic will run, and tell you what version of DirectX you are currently using. Go out to www.microsoft.com/directx, and see what version is current. If your version is not current, read the install instructions, the system requirements, and the FAQ. It is recommended that you download the latest version and install it.
3 - Try to slowdwn the videpcard accelerations: To slow down accelerations--> click on an empty part of the windows Desktop, click on Settings->Advanced->Troubleshoot. Back the accelerations slider to the left, one level each time and see if the problem dissapears

Hope this helps

Posted on Oct 30, 2008

  • superman0147 Feb 11, 2011

    Ive had this program for years. We just got a new computer and i started having the same problems. sometimes it wont let me see the live view, sometimes it wont let me apply textures, etc. So i downloaded and installed the update, but it still doesnt work. it starts to install but then it says it isnt valid so it cant update. any suggestions?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Need to mo we an electrical power point in a brick wall in my apartment


More information is needed.
Brick wall is inside apartment... what is on other side of wall?
Open existing electrical box. Drill through back of box and drill through wall until you come out on other side of wall. Install new box #1 on wall where drill comes out. Run conduit over to another new box#2. Drill through wall again until you come out on inside brick wall where you want to relocate original box. Install new surface-mount box#3 on brick wall. Then run wiring from original box. Original box cannot be bricked over or covered with building materials since it is a junction box where wires connect.
Other option is to install extension ring on top of existing electric box. Run conduit across face of brick wall. Install new box#1 where you need outlet.
Other option is to chisel away the brick and mortar from existing electric box down to floor level (or over to door frame). This will allow recessed conduit that can be concealed with matching mortar. Then run conduit across to new location. Cover conduit along floor with baseboard, or chisel out brick along floorline to accommodate conduit, then mortar over conduit. Or simply paint conduit to match brick. You must use conduit since wires cannot be run openly.
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Use perforated bricks or regular 65mm bricks for the support. A light oven may be built on an U shaped support (you will need to make some structural considerations about the weight). Moreover the U shaped support on top requires an armed concrete slab adequate to support the chamber. If you are not sure about structural performance, build a solid support block of bricks.
Make sure that the support is adequate for the weight of the heavy chamber. If the oven is big, then lay basic foundations or build the oven straight on the ground.
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The wiki for the game has the rules ill post them here for convenience:

Before the game begins, a wall of 24 bricks (plus one "Knockout" brick) is constructed. A template is provided to assist where the bricks should be placed in the wall. These bricks can be 1, 2, or, 3 blocks wide. The bricks are made of clear colored plastic. The 25th brick, also known as the "Knockout" brick (colored solid black in the Milton Bradley version and solid blue in the Hasbro version) is three blocks wide, and is placed on the top of the wall, directly in the middle. The template shows exactly where to place this brick as well.

Players first must roll a special die that has four colors on it and two stars. If a color is rolled, the player must knock out a brick of that color, out of the wall. If the player rolls a star, the player may knock out any brick they wish (with a few exceptions, see below). Players take turns using a motorized hammer known as the "Rammer Hammer", in an attempt to knock out the specified brick out of the wall, without making the wall collapse, OR making the "Knockout" brick fall off the wall. If a player is successful in knocking out the brick, without the wall collapsing, or the "Knockout" brick falling off the wall, they must put the brick back, on the top of the wall. Each player thereafter must accomplish the same task.

The rules for hammering are:

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  • A player cannot hammer any brick on the same row or a row higher than the "Knockout" brick

A player is allowed an attempt to make the wall more stable by using the hammer to stabilize the wall before they commit to hammering out a brick, but once a player starts to hammer a brick out of the wall, they can not change their mind.

If at any time during a player's turn, the wall collapses, or the "Knockout" brick falls off the wall, that player is eliminated from the game, the wall is rebuilt, and play starts again with the next player in line.

If only one player remains, they win the game.

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I have an extension in my house where the bricks are flaking and crumbling. its not rising damp as the bricks are very dry. the worst affected areas are just under the window sills. Please help Vladimir


Check all round the window and ensure a good seal with the brick and sill [use silicon sealant at the joint between the window frame and the brick & sill and brick] and that the sill has a drip bar [ridge or channel under the sill running sideways at the furthest away from the wall] If not put one on the underside. Almost anything will do [sounds silly but an elastic band will do temporary or even a line of the silicon] so long as it collects the drips from the sill. also ensure that the sill slopes downward & away from the wall
How old is the extension ?? I ask because if it is 50+ yrs you may have lime mortar which lets the bricks breath and if this has been re-pointed later with non- lime mortar [i.e. portland cement mortar] any water which gets in above will not escape out through the lime mortar below.
Secondly, if this is a north or east facing wall getting little sun and if the bricks were originally not good, frost & freezing will cause the flaking.
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