Question about Frigidaire FEF376 Electric Kitchen Range

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Stove will not turn on

I plugged it in, nothing goes on, when I turn the knob to turn on the element the clock starts but there is no heat on the element, same for when I want to start the oven

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The power connections to your stove or the wiring at the plug are incorrect. The neutral connection is missing (White wire)

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

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appldoctom
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SOURCE: entire range doesn't operate

skimmerle check your connections where your cord attaches to the stove.may be burnt or loose.if ok check wall outlet also 4 loose connections.i think whats happening is you turn the knob and that allows one side of the power thru to the clock so comes on /then turn off power drops out.give what ive said a good visiual inspectionGod bless,tom

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

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As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too hot or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity, disconnect the wires and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

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I have an oven Electrolux (Frigidare) Model PLEB30S8CCC, it will not heat up properly when turned on. The bottom heating element is not working. It OHMed out OK, but is not getting voltage when the oven is...


you're not getting 240 volts down to the element,you could have a burnt wire,a bad relay in the clock assy. or a bad fuse or breaker in the house.you can pull out the stove,unplug it,remove the back panel, check for any burnt or loose wires back there, if it looks good plug it back in and where the cord connects to the stove check to see if you have 240 volts going to the machine,make sure nothing is touching anywhere before you plug it in.if you get 240 there check power at the element and see if you're getting power to the element,if not unplug it,follow the wires back and check them for breaks.have you noticed anything else going wrong or not working normally?if you have 240 going to the machine,but no power going down to the element you could have a bad clock assy.this is the part number that comes up on the sears site 318010700R and it's around 160 dollars,i'm not saying to buy this computer board and put it in,you have to do checks with your meter to make sure first that power is coming into the machine,to the computer board but not down to the element and that there are no broken or burnt wires anywhere or call in a tech if you have to,also how old is it and what shape is it in before you have to start buying expensive parts for it,also there should be a tech sheet on the stove that will tell you how to check things out on it.good luck and hope this helps and be careful doing checks with it plugged in

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skimmerle check your connections where your cord attaches to the stove.may be burnt or loose.if ok check wall outlet also 4 loose connections.i think whats happening is you turn the knob and that allows one side of the power thru to the clock so comes on /then turn off power drops out.give what ive said a good visiual inspectionGod bless,tom

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This I hope will be an easy solution for you. I think you have a circuit breaker tripped or a fuse if you have a fuse panel.. I am guessing you have an old fuse panel. When you have a fuse blown on a 230 volt appliance and you turn a swith on (like your knob) it feeds back to other circuits on the 120 circuits and will make it do crazzzy things, like making lights and clocks work..Regardless if you have fuse or breaker you dont have the 240 volt to run the range..You only have one120 volt leg powering your stove.

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