I was hoping that you could assist, I have a Westinghouse fridge/freezer BJ514VR and the plastic spacer between the fridge and freezer has broken and I am looking for a part
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read the user manual or get a technician out under warranty
from 10 down to 0 on a fridge is getting colder with the smaller numbers
with a freezer 0 to 10 gets colder as the numbers get bigger
This solution is one possible answer if it applies to you. My fridge did the same and i thought the fridge was dead. The fridges freezer compartment's door was being left open and the freezer would thaw out and produce lots of water which would accumulate in the rear in a container which overflowed causing the fridge to trip the power. Closing the door and drying the rear container solved the problem. There are other causes too but if this applies to you it is worth giving it a try. Good Luck!
we had a really bad smell coming from the back of our westinghouse aurora. and yes found it to be emanating from drip tray at the back. To remove this we had to undo 4 clips at the base of black motor thingy, that the plastic drip box sits on. Then we were able to lift whole thing a bit ,(10mm up and 50mm out, approx) so we could tilt everything forward and sweeze and wiggle tray out. then cleaned with bleach. also we unblocked hole inside fridge that allows water to drip into drip tray at back.
the thermostat has broken down and needs to be replaced,, normaly when they brake down they just stay in the closed poshion so the fridge freezes up get a new one fitted and all will be well
Most probably during transportation either the coolant(previously freon gas) may have leaked out so the pressure on the cooling pipeline causing the red alarm because the compressor will overheat if the fridge is kept running at very cold thermostat readings and no effect of cooling the fridge will ultimately result in the compressor getting burnt. However fist have look at thermostat setting knob which could have loosened during transportation and just pushed into the spindle without knowing the correct angle, thus even though it looks as if on high cool but could also be the lowest setting..........sodeep
Your refrigerator has a Control-defrost,adaptive timer ,PC board part number 241508001 This is providing your model is the one listed above your post WRS3R3EW. The model you listed in post does not come up. Until we can determine that the freezer is not defrosting you need to unplug and remove the back panel of freezer compartment to see if the evaporator coils are frozen or clear. If frozen this alone will cause a chain reaction that keeps vents to fresh food compartment open and cause freezing in that area. Go to link below and enter model number WRS3R3EW0 Then you will see a list of diagrams on left side, chose #11 this will show the control parts. Click link below Thanks, Sea Breeze We offer free help and assistance also.
This is a bad design flaw, the fridhe is cooled by fan forced air from the freazer. Two ducts vent into and out of the fridge fron the freezer and ice can block them up (which you can find if you take off all the plastic at the top and back of the fridge). Hence, when they block up, the frindge does not cool, hence the thermostat tells the fridge to keep running which makes the freezer colder and colder, making the blockage worse.
You need to not only fully defrost the freezer (which can be done quicker by removing the plastic panel in the back of the freezer and using a hairdryer) BUT also fully dry the fridge before turning it back on. To stop it happening again, avoid puting unvovered liquids or hot items in the fridge. Also avoid leaving the fridge and freezer doors open for long especially in humid conditions. As I said, it's a bad design.
You need to remove the clog in the drain line from the freezer to the condenser, Look under the fridge for the plastic drain line and blow it out or otherwise clear it, Then insure that the unit is level. Sooner or later you need to clean the freezer drain pan. After using up your frozen food, remove the back panels of the freezer and clean the area well.
Yes, there is supposed to be a plastic bushing/washer under there. Usually 1/8 inch thick. If a dealer is not handy you may cut some out of plastic to put there. Then undo the top hinge, and carefully lift the door off (you might want to empty the shelfs). Put your spacer on the hinge pin, and replace the door and the top hinge.
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