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Re: blower motor in home air conditioner does not work
The most common failure for this problem is either the start/run capacitor or the fan motor. IF YOU ARE NOT experienced with electricity then I would strongly suggest hiring a technician. The volts are 220 with a potential of 50 amps in a common residential unit.
If you are knowledgeable in this area then make sure the motor has volts to it. If it does have volts and does not spin, it is bad. You can sometimes tell by feeling the motor it will probably be very hot. The compressor will eventually shut itself off when it over heats. It usually will restart after it cools down(sometimes many hours). The motor and capacitor are pretty generic and can be matched up at a local Grainger store or whatever Retail, specialty store that you have in your area.
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Multiple problems. Eliminate thermostat first. Remove face from wall and turn on breaker. If fan still runs you have a bad board or bad relay. If fan outside is running compressor should be too. These operate on same contactor. Verify you are getting 24 volts to coil side of contactor. If odf stops working and contactor remains pulled in you have a bad motor. If odf motor stops working the compressor will shut off due to overheating.
Capacitor Failure Symptoms are sometime harder to identify without the right tools and expertise. Capacitors can be found in several different sizes and shapes. There may be one or multiple capacitors included in your ac with regards to the design. While the most popular capacitors are the types found on circuit boards, the ones most associated with air conditioning will be the bigger capacitors that assist start and run your motors. There are several motors present in an conditioner and heater systems:
Compressor Motor Run Capacitor: Here is the most popular capacitor that fails. Most of the time these are duel capacitors, which means that there are 2 capacitors built into one. A duel capacitor will have three terminals on the top where a single capacitor will simply have two terminals on top.
Outside Fan Motor Run Capacitor: That is the smaller capacitor found with or part of the Compressor Motor Capacitor. It helps start and run the outside fan that blows air through the outside coils.
Indoor Blower Motor Run Capacitor: Similar to the outdoor fan motor capacitor, it is a small, single (two terminals) capacitor that will help start and run the indoor blower motor.
Start Capacitor: Some models include an auxiliary start capacitor that helps jump start the motors. Most are found on the compressor. These are less common.
If you have no airflow in your home at all then the blower is not running. You may have a bad blower motor or a bad motor capacitor or even a wiring problem in your furnace/air handler.Any of these things require working with high voltage and using specialized tools and any tests should be performed by a qualified professional.
Problem #1:Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem
could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. If
your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new
motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard
to turn then you probably need a new motor.
Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied
to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like
the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then
all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will
not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because
the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then
because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The
internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning
up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some
compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some
compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my
customer that they need a new compressor . Many
times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new
compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device that is called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They
have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems.
A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner, the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power. If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be used to assure that the voltage is correct.
For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat. If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem. Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.
Central air conditioners for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.
The next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil. This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working, the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil. A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.
Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.
As you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic way. There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.