Have just bought a 2nd hand WD63. At the time I was told that the dryer did not work, but that is OK as I only need a washing m/c. Desperately. I saw it working before bringing it home, but in a property with the old "wire between 2 screws" type fuses. I live in a bungalow with very new, very safe mini circuit breakers. The second the machine is turned on...the fuse is tripped. We have taken the top off the m/c (yes, turned off and unplugged) and had a good look round. One orange wire had chafed on a bracket with wire showing...that has been mended with insulating tape....problem remains. Please help..quickly..we need clean clothes. I am an engineer (retired, Mech. & Prod., not electrical) and my daughter has an NVQ2 in Pf'g engineering operations and electrical fitting (lighting circuits) so between the two of us. we should be able to sort this out..if pointed in the right direction.
I also have a wd63 and was running it on an extention (2core). Was having the same problem. Ensure this device is earthed as there is a large capacitor that needs an earth. Otherwise you can get a small electric shock and a rcd will pick this up straight away!
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I am assuming your RCD is fitted in your consumer unit (fuse-box)?
If so, then the chances of this being the cause is minimal. The RCD trips wen electricity is not balanced between live and neutral wires - which means some is leaking out to elsewhere - which it shouldn't because it is dangerous.
It would have helped if you had indicated how old your machine is, and how much use it has had but I am currently leaning towards the motor have several winding options that kick in (or not) depending on the spin speed. It would therefore be a motor fault, or something as simple as the brushes are disintegrating (which is often accompanied by hesitant and intermittent behaviour from the motor). These types of faults mean that some of the electricity may be leaking to the motor casing and then to earth.
I would recommend you call an engineer or if you have decent DIY skills, locate a replacement motor (ebay or the likes) and swap it out.
try this open the door and then plug it back in when the door is closed its got power so when open the power is really low if it trip after that it will be you main Bord and poss door switch but i will tell you its going to cost cheaper to buy a second hand machine if you have done what i have told you then get a call out but make sure the call out is cheap ok it could be a waste of time ok
hi martin it sound like bad earth this could be anythink check the plug for loose wire check the socket for loose wires if check motor wire in the washer also check circuit board connections if all wires are ok you could have a faulty motor hope it helps
The tripping can either be down to a short circuit drawing too much current and blowing the fuse , or an earth leakage blowing an RCD. You can eliminate the motor when it happen again , by unplugging it and see if the fuse blows (without turning the drum). Most likely is the heater , but i cannot explain why turning the drum allows it to continue. It is possible a wire is rubbing somewhere on the drum pulley , motor or casing. If the machine will immediately trip again if you don't move the drum , try isolating parts by disconnecting and then retrying.
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Suggest you turn the power off, remove the top cover, diconnect the live and neutral connections to the dryer element (likely to be two of each flavour of connection if the machine has high and low dry settings). Pop a bit of insulating tape around the wire ends so you don't short anything out.
Now try to put the machine through a drying cycle. If it works (albeit cold) without tripping the house power, you need a new dryer element.
If the house power still trips, turn the power off again and without reconnecting the element wires, disconnect and tape the live and neutral wires from the blower motor.
Again, try to run a drying cycle. If this stops the house power tripping, then it looks like a motor problem (though this would be quite unusual).
If the house power still trips, you need to have a careful look at all the wiring between the main timer, the dryer timer, any hi/lo heat switch, the blower motor and the element with its associated thermostats and thermal cutouts (all located near the element on the air duct). Look in particular for chafes where wires go round corners, and where wiring crosses from the case to the suspended machinery in the middle of the machine.
Pop any follow-on queries in the comments section of this question - I'll keep half an eye on it.