Question about Pioneer PRO-710HD 64" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

Pop Off I have the same problem with our 710, can you tell me how to get to the board and safely remove so I can send to you? Also can you tell me what it costs, also if there are any other things I can check? Dori

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  • johnroniger Jul 16, 2008

    i have the same problem . tv pops then screen goes blank, i would like to know how to get the power board out and where do i send it.



    thanks ,

    johnny

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Before you remove the board and send it to me, be sure
to run your set FROM DEAD COLD one last time for under
a minute, just to check that it’s working OK. Do NOT
give your set time to warm up!

Once you have confirmed that it has a solid, normal,
coherent picture, while it's still on, unplug it and
proceed to removing the board. When you get the board
back and plug it back in, the set will turn itself on
automatically, so be sure everything is back in place
before plugging the wall cord back into the 120v
outlet. This allows you to keep watch FROM THE BACK as
the set powers up again for the first time after the
board resolder repair.

With the unit unplugged, follow the power cord, from
the 120v outlet at the wall. It goes directly to that
board. Do NOT remove the slanted plastic back, up
above. Your optics could get permanently damaged.
Just the fiberboard plate, on the LOWER half of the
set, in the back.

Pull all the conn'rs off the board at all points before
removing the board, which comes off with just 1 screw
holding the entire metal frame to the rear wall of the
set. Do NOT disturb the wiring bundling. It will be
needed when you re-install the board, to make sure all
plugs go into their proper jacks. 2 sets of 4 prong
plugs are ID to each other and can't get mixed up as
long as you leave the factory bundling of the wiring
harnesses intact and undisturbed.

Leave the board on that frame, I will remove the small
screws all around it once it has arrived. Pull upward
on it and it will come off its slots for you. Use big
bubble wrap on it, in packing it. Don’t tape that
wrap, just leave it dangling, and PLEASE don’t use
styrofoam popcorn! It gets all over the place.
Crumpled up paper works just fine.

I charge $275 to resolder a board, you take care of the
shipping both ways. Send me a money order/cashier's
check for $275 made out to Robert Jones plus a fully
made out prepaid return shipping tag, made out to you
with all your preferences - insurance level, speediness
of the return freight, etc. - preselected. If you want
to use www.paypal.com, my account is
my regular email address below, and please send in $285
instead, to cover what they charge me to do so.
Prepare a prepaid return label and include it with the
board, for me to use when sending the board back to
you. Fedex leaves the box for me and there has never
been a problem – I live in a good neighborhood – so
avoid “signature required” if possible, if you want it
back the fastest way possible. How you send it IS 100%
your responsibility, however, in all cases, so make the
right choices for yourself.

Use UPS or Fedex ONLY, and if you use Fedex, feel free
to make it for "MORNING by 10:30am" delivery only, to
me. DON'T USE ECONOMY Fedex, they would make me wait
all day and I would never get it, as I work out of my
home but am usually not home in the afternoons, having
repair and calibration work and all. Wednesday
morning I am not at home after 10:15am, but other days
I am usually home all morning.

I try for 48 hour turnaround, but will only promise a 2
week's turnaround, as my schedule often has surprises
in it as the days progress. I usually get repaired
boards out in a couple of days, yesterday I was
actually able to do one same day as it arrived, I take
it down for shipping today…

Contact me directly for where to ship it, and I'll send you the address.


Mr Bob
www.imageperfection.com
510-278-4247
email: bob at imageperfection dot com

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

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If your Elite 510/610/710 - and the earlier 520/620/720s - works fine when you turn it on but starts to go hinky on its reliability once it has warmed up, you still have a shot at getting that sit remedied for a very nominal fee - or nothing, if you know what you're doing and are an electronics professional. Those models were improperly soldered at the factory on their PS boards. Those PS boards took years to go bad, but now that the constant barrage of expansion and contraction of the too-thin solder joints has started its inexorable journey towards taking down your set, the clock is ticking. You don't have much time.

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Send me an email requesting it, and I'll send you back an emailout on how to remove it, what it costs, how to wrap it and send it, where to send it, etc. I can't divulge certain aspects of all this on the net here, must keep some of it close to the vest. Will be glad to tell you personally, by email or on the phone.

I will tell you this much - I charge $275 for the resoldering op, you pay the shipping both ways. That's less than it costs to get a replacement board from Pio and have a local Pio warranty station install it.

Keeping the same board in your set rather than replacing it is the way to go, IMHO. That way the voltages it was set up with originally, stay the same. If you get a replacement board, those voltages can be very different, affecting the precision of settings downline. Voltage regulation only has to fall within certain parameters, so different PS boards will produce different sets of voltages. The PS board and your set are now a matched pair. The best way to retain your precision in downline sets of settings, is to keep your original board in the set, the one your set was originally set up at the factory with.

To find the PS board, follow the power cord from the wall. It will lead you right to it. Use the big bubble-wrap to send it rather than the small stuff, and box it in an oversized box for the journey.

Mr Bob
www.imageperfection.com
bob@imageperfection.com

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If your Elite 510/610/710 - and the earlier 520/620/720s - works fine when you turn it on but starts to go hinky on its reliability once it has warmed up, you still have a shot at getting that sit remedied for a very nominal fee - or nothing, if you know what you're doing and are an electronics professional. Those models were improperly soldered at the factory on their PS boards. Those PS boards took years to go bad, but now that the constant barrage of expansion and contraction of the too-thin solder joints has started its inexorable journey towards taking down your set, the clock is ticking. You don't have much time.

One thing is very important, and I can't stress it enough: STOP USING YOUR SET NOW. Things could get much worse if you do. That means NOW, even if you are watching it right now. A deadly spike caused by the bad solder joints currently on that power supply board could be getting ready to be produced by a connection that is getting ready to separate as we speak, and that spike could take out one or more of the boards downline. One guy who called me had kept using his set for months with these intermittents happening, and eventually both the convergence and the deflection boards went out, both in an instant. The set would not turn on again, and built-in indicators on the circuitry showed 3 boards now needed attention. With 3 boards to now have to deal with, he decided not to get his set repaired at all, due to the now tripled expense. His set was now totalled. It tears my heart out when one of these fine machines goes down for the count because of misuse - continued use when it's obviously hurt - and is then DNR'd by its owner. That all could have been avoided by taking action promptly rather than continuing to tempt fate, on his part.

Send me an email requesting it, and I'll send you back an emailout on how to remove it, what it costs, how to wrap it and send it, where to send it, etc. I can't divulge certain aspects of all this on the net here, must keep some of it close to the vest. Will be glad to tell you personally, by email or on the phone.

I will tell you this much - I charge $275 for the resoldering op, you pay the shipping both ways. That's less than it costs to get a replacement board from Pio and have a local Pio warranty station install it.

Keeping the same board in your set rather than replacing it is the way to go, IMHO. That way the voltages it was set up with originally, stay the same. If you get a replacement board, those voltages can be very different, affecting the precision of settings downline. Voltage regulation only has to fall within certain parameters, so different PS boards will produce different sets of voltages. The PS board and your set are now a matched pair. The best way to retain your precision in downline sets of settings, is to keep your original board in the set, the one your set was originally set up at the factory with.

To find the PS board, follow the power cord from the wall. It will lead you right to it. Use the big bubble-wrap to send it rather than the small stuff, and box it in an oversized box for the journey.

Mr Bob
www.imageperfection.com
bob@imageperfection.com

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I have never stated "100% reliable". I have simply not ever had a failure yet to make the set work again, as long as the set is working properly when turned on before the board is removed and sent, just experiencing intermittent trouble events after warming up. Hopefully that's good enough for you, as you seem to be a little skeptical. If it does not make your set work and you need to get a new board to replace yours, I will refund half what I charge but will keep the other half, just for trying. This refund policy hasn't needed to be implemented yet, in all the dozens of boards that have been sent to me so far from all over the continent - including Canada - but that's my promise to you.

One thing is very important, and I can't stress it enough: STOP USING YOUR SET NOW. Things could get much worse if you do. That means NOW, even if you are watching it now. A deadly spike caused by the bad solder joints currently on that power supply board could be getting ready to be produced by a connection that is getting ready to separate as we speak, and that spike could take out one of the boards downline. One guy who called me had kept using his set for months with these intermittents happening, and eventually both the converence and the deflection boards went out, both in an instant. The set would not turn on again. With 3 boards to now have to deal with, he decided not to get his set repaired at all, due to the now tripled expense. It tears my heart out when one of these fine machines goes down for the count because of misuse - continued use when it's obviously hurt - and is then DNR'd by its owner. That all could have been avoided by taking action promptly rather than continuing to tempt fate, on his part.

Send me an email requesting it, and I'll send you back an emailout on how to remove it, what it costs, how to wrap it and send it, where to send it, etc. I can't divulge certain aspects of all this on the net here, must keep some of it close to the vest. Will be glad to tell you personally, by email or on the phone.

I will tell you this much - I charge $275 for the resoldering op, you pay the shipping both ways. That's less than it costs to get a board from Pio and have a local Pio warranty station install it.

Keeping the same board in your set rather than replacing it is the way to go, IMHO. That way the voltages it was set up with originally, stay the same. If you get a replacement board, those voltages can be very different, affecting the precision of settings downline. Voltage regulation only has to fall within certain parameters, so different PS boards will produce different sets of voltages. The best way to retain your precision in downline sets of settings is to keep your original board in the set, the one your set was originally set up at the factory with.

To find the PS board, follow the power cord from the wall. It will lead you right to it. Use the big bubble-wrap to send it rather than the small stuff, and box it in an oversized box for the journey.

I keep the return date to you within 2 weeks of arrival here, and sooner if at all possible. But this time of year things get really busy for me, as everyone wants their display up and running for the holidays. I will do my best to get it back to you promptly.


Mr Bob
www.imageperfection.com
email: bob at imageperfection dot com
510-278-4247

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Hello mrbrick,
Thanks again for contacting us for your Boards needs.Let me explain how we operate. The first step is for us to send you a Paypal invoice for $250 including shipping. After payments is received we send you the address for you to ship your defective board to. We will then ship your part Express. Once you received the board, there will be a telephone number inside the package for you to call if you need any assistant in installing the new board. Please note that assistant over the phone is completely FREE and unlimited. Please send us your Paypal email address so we can send you the invoice. If you do not have a Paypal account, please register with paypal. We only accept paypal at this time. We consider paypal to be safe for both party.

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The trimpots on your focus block will probably need increasing/turning up and rebalancing to remedy the darkening of your picture, which I have encountered a lot in my calibrations lately, of your series of Elite. This irrevocably alters your grayscale and must be done by someone who knows what they are doing. After the grayscale has been rebalanced also, if you then spring for a professional grade optics cleaning the picture you get is bright, cheerful and as good as new. Have had numerous cross the country trips on these Elites this year and last year, testifying to this, with the results of these Mr Bob/Image Perfection calibration tours posted on the AVS Forum.

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The intermittencies you mention are common on this series. The PS - power supply - board needs a virtually complete resolder op, as the solder used in that run of units was weak and thin. It will not get better on its own, any more than needed dental work will.

Send it to me and I will resolder it and send it back. I have done so on a number of PS boards in this series, and am running at 100% success on saving the 510/610/710 series of Pioneer Elites when all they need is the resoldering op. There is a procedure to follow, so contact me directly.

www.imageperfection.com


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The intermittencies you mention are common on this
series. The PS - power supply - board needs a
virtually complete resolder op, as the solder used in
that run of units was weak and thin. It will not get
better on its own, any more than needed dental work
will.

Send it to me and I will resolder it and send it back.
I have done so on a number of PS boards in this series,
and am running at 100% success on saving the
510/610/710 series of Pioneer Elites when all they need
is the resoldering op. There is a procedure to follow,
so contact me directly.

www.imageperfection.com
510-278-4247

Mr Bob

Nov 08, 2007 | Pioneer PRO-510HD 53" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

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The intermittencies you mention are common on this
series. The PS - power supply - board needs a
virtually complete resolder op, as the solder used in
that run of units was weak and thin. It will not get
better on its own, any more than needed dental work
will.

Send it to me and I will resolder it and send it back.
I have done so on a number of PS boards in this series,
and am running at 100% success on saving the
510/610/710 series of Pioneer Elites when all they need
is the resoldering op. There is a procedure to follow,
so contact me directly.

www.imageperfection.com
510-278-4247

Mr Bob

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If your Elite 510/610/710 - and the earlier 520/620/720s - works fine when you turn it on but starts to go hinky on its reliability once it has warmed up, you still have a shot at getting that sit remedied for a very nominal fee - or nothing, if you know what you're doing and are an electronics professional. Those models were improperly soldered at the factory on their PS boards. Those PS boards took years to go bad, but now that the constant barrage of expansion and contraction of the too-thin solder joints has started its inexorable journey towards taking down your set, the clock is ticking. You don't have much time.

One thing is very important, and I can't stress it enough: STOP USING YOUR SET NOW. Things could get much worse if you do. That means NOW, even if you are watching it right now. A deadly spike caused by the bad solder joints currently on that power supply board could be getting ready to be produced by a connection that is getting ready to separate as we speak, and that spike could take out one or more of the boards downline. One guy who called me had kept using his set for months with these intermittents happening, and eventually both the converence and the deflection boards went out, both in an instant. The set would not turn on again, and built-in indicators on the circuitry showed 3 boards now needed attention. With 3 boards to now have to deal with, he decided not to get his set repaired at all, due to the now tripled expense. His set was now totalled. It tears my heart out when one of these fine machines goes down for the count because of misuse - continued use when it's obviously hurt - and is then DNR'd by its owner. That all could have been avoided by taking action promptly rather than continuing to tempt fate, on his part.

Send me an email requesting it, and I'll send you back an emailout on how to remove it, what it costs, how to wrap it and send it, where to send it, etc. I can't divulge certain aspects of all this on the net here, must keep some of it close to the vest. Will be glad to tell you personally, by email or on the phone.

I will tell you this much - I charge $275 for the resoldering op, you pay the shipping both ways. That's less than it costs to get a replacement board from Pio and have a local Pio warranty station install it.

Keeping the same board in your set rather than replacing it is the way to go, IMHO. That way the voltages it was set up with originally, stay the same. If you get a replacement board, those voltages can be very different, affecting the precision of settings downline. Voltage regulation only has to fall within certain parameters, so different PS boards will produce different sets of voltages. The PS board and your set are now a matched pair. The best way to retain your precision in downline sets of settings, is to keep your original board in the set, the one your set was originally set up at the factory with.

To find the PS board, follow the power cord from the wall. It will lead you right to it. Use the big bubble-wrap to send it rather than the small stuff, and box it in an oversized box for the journey.

Mr Bob
www.imageperfection.com
bob@imageperfection.com

Aug 01, 2007 | Pioneer PRO-710HD 64" Rear Projection...

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