Question about Pioneer PRO-710HD 64" Rear Projection Television

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Pop Off I have the same problem with our 710, can you tell me how to get to the board and safely remove so I can send to you? Also can you tell me what it costs, also if there are any other things I can check? Dori

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  • johnroniger Jul 16, 2008

    i have the same problem . tv pops then screen goes blank, i would like to know how to get the power board out and where do i send it.



    thanks ,

    johnny

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Before you remove the board and send it to me, be sure
to run your set FROM DEAD COLD one last time for under
a minute, just to check that it’s working OK. Do NOT
give your set time to warm up!

Once you have confirmed that it has a solid, normal,
coherent picture, while it's still on, unplug it and
proceed to removing the board. When you get the board
back and plug it back in, the set will turn itself on
automatically, so be sure everything is back in place
before plugging the wall cord back into the 120v
outlet. This allows you to keep watch FROM THE BACK as
the set powers up again for the first time after the
board resolder repair.

With the unit unplugged, follow the power cord, from
the 120v outlet at the wall. It goes directly to that
board. Do NOT remove the slanted plastic back, up
above. Your optics could get permanently damaged.
Just the fiberboard plate, on the LOWER half of the
set, in the back.

Pull all the conn'rs off the board at all points before
removing the board, which comes off with just 1 screw
holding the entire metal frame to the rear wall of the
set. Do NOT disturb the wiring bundling. It will be
needed when you re-install the board, to make sure all
plugs go into their proper jacks. 2 sets of 4 prong
plugs are ID to each other and can't get mixed up as
long as you leave the factory bundling of the wiring
harnesses intact and undisturbed.

Leave the board on that frame, I will remove the small
screws all around it once it has arrived. Pull upward
on it and it will come off its slots for you. Use big
bubble wrap on it, in packing it. Don’t tape that
wrap, just leave it dangling, and PLEASE don’t use
styrofoam popcorn! It gets all over the place.
Crumpled up paper works just fine.

I charge $275 to resolder a board, you take care of the
shipping both ways. Send me a money order/cashier's
check for $275 made out to Robert Jones plus a fully
made out prepaid return shipping tag, made out to you
with all your preferences - insurance level, speediness
of the return freight, etc. - preselected. If you want
to use www.paypal.com, my account is
my regular email address below, and please send in $285
instead, to cover what they charge me to do so.
Prepare a prepaid return label and include it with the
board, for me to use when sending the board back to
you. Fedex leaves the box for me and there has never
been a problem – I live in a good neighborhood – so
avoid “signature required” if possible, if you want it
back the fastest way possible. How you send it IS 100%
your responsibility, however, in all cases, so make the
right choices for yourself.

Use UPS or Fedex ONLY, and if you use Fedex, feel free
to make it for "MORNING by 10:30am" delivery only, to
me. DON'T USE ECONOMY Fedex, they would make me wait
all day and I would never get it, as I work out of my
home but am usually not home in the afternoons, having
repair and calibration work and all. Wednesday
morning I am not at home after 10:15am, but other days
I am usually home all morning.

I try for 48 hour turnaround, but will only promise a 2
week's turnaround, as my schedule often has surprises
in it as the days progress. I usually get repaired
boards out in a couple of days, yesterday I was
actually able to do one same day as it arrived, I take
it down for shipping today…

Contact me directly for where to ship it, and I'll send you the address.


Mr Bob
www.imageperfection.com
510-278-4247
email: bob at imageperfection dot com

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

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I will tell you this much - I charge $275 for the resoldering op, you pay the shipping both ways. That's less than it costs to get a replacement board from Pio and have a local Pio warranty station install it.

Keeping the same board in your set rather than replacing it is the way to go, IMHO. That way the voltages it was set up with originally, stay the same. If you get a replacement board, those voltages can be very different, affecting the precision of settings downline. Voltage regulation only has to fall within certain parameters, so different PS boards will produce different sets of voltages. The PS board and your set are now a matched pair. The best way to retain your precision in downline sets of settings, is to keep your original board in the set, the one your set was originally set up at the factory with.

To find the PS board, follow the power cord from the wall. It will lead you right to it. Use the big bubble-wrap to send it rather than the small stuff, and box it in an oversized box for the journey.

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