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I have a bottom mount Kenmore Fridge model C978-66792-2. It only has 3 months left on the 10 warranty for the compressor (parts only). About 10 days ago, I noticed that the fridge was running constantly. There is no frost build up inside the freezer. I used an air gun underneath to blow out any dust. Surprisingly, there was a fair bit, despite vacuuming once in a while. I removed the back cover and vacuumed all the accessible parts as best I could but that didn't solve the problem. The compressor was quite hot to the touch. So I requested a service call from Sears. The person who came to diagnose the problem said I would need an evaporator. He quickly came to this conclusion after removing the bottom plate inside the fridge part and looking at the evaporator coils. He pointed out that only half of the first row of coil had frost on it and the other half had none at all. The second row of coil had no frost whatsoever. He thus concluded that the evaporator had a leak and would need to be replaced. I am not aware that he used a gauge and tested the freon. I'm told he should have put one on the line tap valve to test the pressure. I am also told that having to replace the evaporator is not that common. I am wondering if the experts can give me advice on how to proceed. Does the diagnosis sound correct? Should I, can I insist that they change the compressor or at least test the pressure of the freon, perhaps top it up and see if it leaks? (I would have to cover the labor portion.) Or does this sound like the end of the road for the fridge...a real shame, cause it is still like new, inside and out. They've given me an estimate of $140 for the part and $300 for the labor and shop supplies. If I add the taxes I'm gonna drop $500 if I agree to this. Should I just forget and spend $1500 to $2000 on a new fridge. I'll also mention in case it's important, that we had a two hour power outage a couple of days before I noticed the fridge running constantly. Just a coincidence? Any help is appreciated. Thank you. Mrs Clo

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Diagnosis of evaporator requiring replacement is rubbish. reason only half iced up is that the compressor has poor pumping capacity

same symptons if appliance is undercharged with gas but this will only happen on an older appliance if there is a leak and if there is a leak, all the gas goes.

you are quite right. a proper diagnosis can only be made by checking pressures via a line tap valve.

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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Kenmore model (p) 66992 fridge with bottom freezer.Fan is working on bottom but fridge and freezer are not getting cold.


If the compressor is not operating to cool the unit then the most likely causes are the relay or the capacitor or the compressor. If the compressor is extremely hot then that tells you the compressor is getting power but not working. If it isn't hot then it probably mean that either the relay or the capacitor is not allowing power to get to your compressor.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/W10293291/0046/106/Model-59669928011/0582/0161000?keySuffixId=NA&productTypeId=x&searchModelNumber=59669928011&subCompDesc=Unit%20parts&brandDesc=KENMORE&modelDesc=REFRIGERATOR&blt=11 Relay

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The part numbers on those links are searchable so you can look for cheaper prices.

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1 Answer

The compressor is very loud and has been for some time. The refrigerator still keeps things cold. The noise is not from a fan


This is a defective compressor. Can continue to run this way for months or years. You should check to see that nothing is jammed under the fridge near the compressor. The compressor is shock mounted so it can vibrate a little. If the rubber mounts come out or get broken it can be very loud.

Take everything out, including shelves, and tip up to one side to look using a strong helper. turn on while tipped partly over if it is bad mounts you will see it.

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2 Answers

REFRIGERATOR IS MAKING A BUZZING SOUND, not cooling


You have one of two problems going on. Your fan is spinning at hitting the sides. Or your compressor is shot which seems to be more the problem and even though it is cold the humming sound is a warning for you that the compressor is shot and it is more affordable to replace the fridge then the compressor. Sometimes compressor can cost more then the fridge.

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1 Answer

My Kenmore side by side refrigerator is not freezing nor cooling.


surfgl,

The model you posted does not help me much but a rough estimate would be (from Sears) about $400.00 for the compressor + about $225.00 Serv Call and Labor. Possibly another $15.00 access valve and then tax.
The problem you have is that the compressor is locking up then it may run again for a short time. It will eventually lock up and not run again. If you can prove it is (by receipt) that it is less than 5 years old, Sears will repair it free under the sealed system warranty.
The model # and serial # should be on a sticker in the top front of the ref section. If not then on the left wall or right wall top front of ref section.

If this helped please rate me good. supertechks

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very good chance it is the same problem or possibly a leak of refrigerant due to joint failing where compressor is joined to pipework

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Loud banging noise and water leaking


not much can be done about compressore noise, short of replacing it. but your drain issue is easily fixed, with that whirlpool heat strap you mentioned.it actually wraps around the heater in frezer section and the idea is that when the unit goes into a defrost cycle(3 or 4 times a day) the heater heats the strap(which runs into drain tube) up as well, preventing tube from freeezing up and eventually backing up into your freezer floor

Feb 23, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Loud banging noise and water leaking


first of all the noise is the internal compressor motor hitting the steel shell on shut down. in my experience this is annoying and not really a huge concern as far as the compressor dying any time soon. now your drain problem. i would recomend the wire or heat probe that whirlpool recomends. when your freezer defrosts the water that drips off of the coil can and will flash2.gif freeze in the drain area causing it to freeze up a peice of 10 or 12 guage solid copper wire run into the drain and wrapped around your def heater will transfer enough heat into the drain hole to prevent it from freezing up.

fwiw: whirlpool in my opinion is probably one of the best appliances on the market

Dec 16, 2007 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Loud banging noise and water leaking


first of all the noise is the internal compressor motor hitting the steel shell on shut down. in my experience this is annoying and not really a huge concern as far as the compressor dying any time soon. now your drain problem. i would recomend the wire or heat probe that whirlpool recomends. when your freezer defrosts the water that drips off of the coil can and will flash freeze in the drain area causing it to freeze up a peice of 10 or 12 guage solid copper wire run into the drain and wrapped around your def heater will transfer enough heat into the drain hole to prevent it from freezing up.

fwiw: whirlpool in my opinion is probably one of the best appliances on the market..

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1 Answer

15 month fridge acting up


From what you describe, it sounds like the buzzing noise was caused by the compressor trying to start up, but not managing due to either a fault in the electrical supply, which may now be fine, or the compressor itself sticking. If the compressor was sticking, then there are three possible causes; - the fridge is either low on refrigerant gas (this contains the lubricant for the compressor too), if this is the case then $219 is not a bad price, shop around though - any fridge repair guy can do it, doesnt have to be sears/kenmore guys, but the warranty sounds useful. - just that the compressor was being temperamental. (sometimes happens but is fairly rare). If it doesnt happen again in the near future then your fridge may be fine. Third possibility is that the starter capacitor/condenser for the compressor is failing - this is a small part, quick to swap and cheap, although usually these either work, or they dont work - not much in between. I would recommend leaving it for a few days or so, and keep a record of the temperature every now and again - if it keeps getting warmer noticeably, or colder noticeably (i know it sounds odd but getting extra cold is a classic symptom of low refrigerant). Listen a bit, and see if you think the fridge compressor is running more often than normal if you can remember how it was, and if it keeps getting more frequent. If so - get it fixed. if everything stays about the same - temperature/amount of time running/noise then you probably can just hope for the best and leave it running, the moment anything changes, post again and we can probably advise you if it needs fixing or not. If you can spare the $219 then with the warranty attached it may be better to get it done anyway, but if it lasts a week with no change then it is probably fine for now. Hope this helps :)

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