I want a washer that will wash large amts of clothes easily 3.2 or 3.5 and get them clean, quiet, at least 2 water levels small and large, I need only cold temp. at least, load balancer, heavy cycle needed only at least, saves a little energy not mandatory, will last at least 6 years with no to few problems, top loader, serviced in front not mandatory, easy to fix, free delivery and set up hopefully,dual agitator, Lg items hopefully, few to very little electrical stuff so it won't cost so much to break down and easy usage, good motor, hopeful rebate, and price 399 and under who would you buy the washer from major store and what kind, what brand help me please
I just bought a new washer from Sears (Kenmore, front loading, huge & quiet--$850). You are not going to find a large washer, especially front loading for $399 or under. The new stuff has so many bells and whistles, never cheap to fix.
You can price shop for specifics at great websites like Sears, Home Depot, and Lowes. That will give you a better idea of what you can expect to get for the price you're willing to pay. You will probably be better off buying a good, used machine. Good luck to you.
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Leiloni, is this a new machine with built in sensors that detects when clothes are clean, when soap suds are still present and all that fancy stuff, or is a plain Jayne washer with a bad timer.
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Hello. Welcome to a "nature of the beast" situation with cleaning your washer. These washers are a lot more user intensive than the older ones. I'm a tech and tell all my customers to build a CLEANING KIT consisting of the following:
2 old toothbrushes
1 kitchen or bathroom scrub brush(on the medium/small side)
3 old wash cloths
3 pairs of comfortable rubber(Playtex) gloves
1 gallon of household bleach
Procedure: Put on gloves(always)
MIX 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of warm/hot water
Clean the dispenser areas with the toothbrushes dipped in the water/bleach solution(be careful to *not* get bleach on any metal surfaces, use the scrub brush also. Try to flush the areas with clean water or wipe/flush with a wash cloth and clean water.
FOR CLEANING THE BELLOW(RUBBER BOOT THAT MAKES THE DOOR SEAL)
Dunk a wash cloth or 2 in the water/bleach solution, squeeze out enough water so that the cloth is very wet but *not* dripping, carefully place the cloths in the fold of the bellow and wipe around and around, repeating the dunking and squeezing as often as needed. DON'T BE ROUGH, DO NOT USE DENTAL TOOLS ANYWHERE NEAR THE BELLOW--if you puncture it, it will leak and have to be replaced. You can use a toothbrush or scrub brush as long as you are gentle with the scrubbing. Take your time and try to remove as much of the mold as possible.
Run a washer cleaner through the unit at least once per month. For heavy mold build-up you will have to use several boxes of cleaner once a week for 3 weeks. After each cleaning cycle(no spin needed), run the washer on HOT WATER, heavy duty, bulky, etc WITH NOTHING IN IT), then, for run #3, only wash whites--this will ensure that anything with cleaner in it has been flushed out the washer. I hope I helped you!
the 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel under the
washer door. Your filter door will be light brown. If you find a hose
there it is to drain out excess water (water that could not be drained
by your pump) After you hv drained unscrew the cap and
remove all the junk inside. Have a large plastic bag to catch junk and
water. Refit carefully after cleaning out. If not solved, something
shd be blocking your pump, check this out
Towel mildew odor is transferred from the washer to towels and clothes. The washer must be cleaned first. After cleaning the washer and towels washing habits must change to stop mold smell from returning.
Washing machine mold / mildew is caused by:
#1 cause is overuse of detergents. Detergent companies are notorious for instructing to use too much detergent. Especially with soft water or when using liquid detergent no more than 1 tbsp of any detergent should be used.
#2 most common cause is using fabric softener because it's dispensed in the rinse cycle and will coat the inside of the outer tub with residue that is a food source for mold to grow.
#3 using only cold water for washing is fine but makes preventative maintenance very important. A weekly hot soak will dissolve odor-causing residue from inside your washer.
#4 not using the washer. If the clothes washer isn't used very often maintenance is especially important. If leaving for a vacation it's a good idea to clean your washer. Do a search to "remove washer odor" to read just how big the problem is. There are all natural washer cleaners that will also remove mildew odor from towels and clothing after the washer has been cleaned.
I'm sure that the exact make up of clean washer or tub clean cycles vary from brand to brand, but basically that cycle fills to a higher water level, hottest water, and highest spin, turning off load sensors / out of balance sensors so the machine can spin with water in the tub (allowing tub cleaning agents to contact all tub surfaces). (all other cycles pump the water out before spinning) Having a load of clothes in the machine at this time could result in overloading machine (gererally causing an error code), damage to suspension components, damage to hoses or connections resulting in water leaks, etc.
Due to the large water level, your clothes would be agitated more ****, but the hot water might damage some fabrics.
A FixYa rating would be appreciated for this info. Thanks.
When the machine drains can you hear the water going into the drain? I thinking your pump is not pumping from debris or the drain hose to far in the drain. The kick panel below the door has three screws 1/4 or Torx T20. There is a clean out left side of the pump, the large screw handle removes and does have some water behind it so wrap a trash bag around the clean out before opening.
You sad,My clothes get dingier ever week from using my washer especially the towels. They are now Grey and not white
1.Here are some ideas and INFO! 2.How old is your MAH5500B washer and did you buy it new? 3.Do you use HE High Efficient detergent? 4.Do you ONLY put the proper amount of detergent directed to be used by the manufacturer? 5.Using to much detergent will degrade the seal and eventually destroy the bearings. Which will cause oil to leak out on your clothes and sometimes make gray stains on them ! 6.Is there tiny gray oily pieces in the wash and on clothes? 7.Look closely at your rubber seal around the opening. Is this worn or deteriorating away slowly due to bleach or detergent? Is it a gray or black rubber?
Please have patients and bear with me, with all these questions I propose to you here! "I am searching withyour eyes for things I have seen in the past about this model"
Here are some reasons this may also happen! How large of a load can I wash in my Maytag Neptune washer? * The tub can be loaded completely full with dry, unfolded clothes. However, do not pack the tub tightly. If the load is heavily soiled it is very important not to overload the washer.
My whites are not as white as I’d like.What can I do? * Wash white loads using the cotton/sturdy fabric selection. Select the hot wash/cold rinse temperature setting and put 3/4 cup of chlorine bleach in the bleach dispenser. The bleach will be dispensed in the final minutes of the wash providing for optimal whitening. Maytag recommends a hot water wash temperature of 120-140° F (49°- 60° C).
Also: *The lint filter in side the machine may be clogging with dirty lint! *Which means you needed service!
I hope one of these solutions is the reason! Let me know how you do! Huuum Please remember to leave a rating for me!
this is not 100% diagnosis as can't listen to noise but fault may be bearing lip seal disintegrating which is a serious fault and if im right then bearing will shortly go as well. reason it is noisy during start is that seal is dry and gets wet when full of water