Question about Samsung HL-R6167W 61" HDTV

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Color wheel/ Samsung

I have the buzzing noise coming from a 61" Samnsung that you've commented on for previous people. How much does a color wheel cost? Is this something that can be replaced by a "non-tech"

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  • frogger72 May 11, 2010

    I did not catch the time put into repairing your color wheel... only curious because we just shelled $500 to have the same thing done... was i taken?



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The Color Wheel (part# BP96-00674A) will run you just under $100 from and they offer a variety of shipping methods which will increase your total amount spent. I just received mine today and I ordered it this past Sunday night. My HLR6167W started buzzing and gave me a black and white picture that morning and I was all over the internet investigating the symptom. I elected to go with the color wheel based on what I was seeing and all the different things I read up on. I plan on putting it in tonight and will let you know the difficulty surrounding its installation when I am done.

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

  • Marc Geo
    Marc Geo Jul 02, 2008

    OK - It took a little doing but the new color wheel is install and my television is working as good as ever. To answer your question regarding if the color wheel can be replaced by a "non-tech", I would have to say that on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the most difficult - this job was around a 7. I am a field service tech on industrial printers and could see where someone might get run into some trouble installing this part. I summons the assistance of a co-worker/friend who was more than happy to assist me in the installation of the part.

    I will try and lay out some steps for you to make it easier. I am not a television repair-man so I am going to use terms like "that blue thing" or "the who's-it-called" to describe the things I saw when I was inside my baby. This was for a Samsung HLR6167WX/XAA color wheel L3 Chassis.

    1- Remove the Fan cover (4 screws) located towards the right of the television. Pay attention to note that you can see the lamp and also a blue switch that touches the cover you just removed. The television WILL NOT TURN ON if that cover is removed and not making contact with the switch.

    2- Remove the back cover of the television. There were around 10 screws holding them on. You now have access to everything you need.

    3- Using a small screw driver, disconnect the big white cable that runs is on the left side of the circuit board in the middle. You only need to disconnect the one side that is facing to the left.

    4- Disconnect the white cable that runs next to the previously removed cable. It pulls right out and runs up towards the top of the TV. I tucked mine up to the left so it was not in the way.

    5- On the bottom right circuit board there is a power connector with both a blue and white wire. Just use ur screw driver to ease the tab and the plug comes right out.

    6- There was a silver metal bracket on the bottom right side that needed to be removed as well. That was held in with three (3) screws.

    7- Once these things were removed I was then able to pry the base unit from the television. When pulling the entire unit towards you, you need to be aware that there is a cable run on the top that may need to be pushed up higher to make room and also a cable run hook on the left that rubs against the unit as you remove it. I was able to push down on the cable run holder (its plastic) and carefully slide the unit out. When the unit was free, I swung it around to the left to gain access to the color wheel.

    8- You can see the color wheel from the top because it has these gray fins with two separate wires coming from it. I am pretty sure the fins are for heat dissipation but that's just a guess. Follow both cables from the color wheel and you'll notice they go to the top of a circuit board sitting side by side. One connector on the circuit board is a white connector with a 4 wires (blue, white, white, white). To remove this connector use a small screw driver to pry up from the holder and it should come right out. The second connector is a flat ribbon cable that slides into a connector. This one was a little difficult to remove because anytime I have seen these types of connectors there was a release for them. This on did not have one as I could see. With a quick tug on the connector then cable was free. You may have to use a small pair of needle nose plyers to remove this cable.

    9- Before removing the color wheel I needed to remove the fan cover that was blocking the color wheel. There are four (4) brass-like screws holding this fan in place. Three are along the base or floor of the unit while one sits a little higher up near the color wheel.

    10- Remove the two screws holding in the color wheel. These are two pains-in-the-**** screws because they where phillips head screws that had a wider base than a standard phillips screw driver. We needed to pay attention when removing these because we did not want to strip the screws out. You need to push down on the screws while turning because if you don't you take the chance of slipping and stripping the screw. The screw on the top is easy to grab but you may need a pair of needle nose plyers to get the second screw that sits a bit lower on the opposite side.

    11- There was no question my color wheel was bad and I was a little relieved to find that mine was shattered into a million pieces once the color wheel was removed. I had that "gee - I'm glad I didn't take this apart of no reason" feeling. It took a little time but all that glass needed to be removed. We used a vacuum and some canned air to clean the area up. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN UP ALL THE GLASS!!

    12- Installing the new color wheel is a little tricky because of a couple different reasons. First thing is that you need to treat this new color wheel like it's nitroglycerin because if you break it while installing it you be you that certain creek without a paddle. Secondly is that you need to make sure the rubber gasket that runs around it stays snug when screwing in the unit. Notice that the one ribbon cable coming from the middle of the color wheel is running between the color wheel and the gasket. There is a notch in the color wheel for the cable to run through.

    13- Once the color wheel is in place - carefully screw in those pain in the **** screws. While doing this we made sure the gasket did not move while we screwed it down.

    14- Reinstall the four (4) screws holding in the fan cover.

    15- Reinstall the base unit into the television. Make sure to slide it back in as far as it will go and avoid the over head cables you had to deal with when removing the unit. Also take a finger and hold that cable run holder out of the way when sliding it back in.

    16- Reinstall the power cable on the bottom right.

    17- Reinstall the white ribbon cable (the one to tucked up and out of the way).

    18- Reinstall the big white plug connector.

    19- We then checked all connectors just to make sure they were snug and verify we did not knock anything loose.

    20- After that we put the back cover back on and tested the television. Everything worked fine with the exception of getting a "check the fan #1" that flashed on the bottom of the screen. We took the back cover off and reinspected fan #1. It is located right behind the fan cover that has that contact switch I mentioned earlier. My friend held the switch while I turned the TV on and the fan was spinning. In my best "Poltergiest" voice I need to let you know "DO NOT LOOK INTO THE LIGHT". That thing is so bright you'd think God himself was talking to you. When I checked the screen the error was gone. We assumed that the cover may have hit the plug when reinstalling it to the back of the television.

    I am now watching television and my picture has never looked better. Good luck!


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There is a YouTube video for replacing the color wheel on Samsung DLP TVs that helped me get through it easily. Search there for "samsung dlp color wheel".

Posted on Nov 22, 2012

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READ FIRST - The above is very very good (well the solution posted by marc8247, I found a couple of suggestions that may help further and would have been usefull to have:

1. Understand that the first main goal is to remove the entire plate of components assembly, not just get at the thing. This means that a large "plate" that the lamp, color wheel, projector, Fans etc is what slides out, basically everything to the right of where you plug inputs like component and S-video in to. There are ONLY 4 screws and 3 connectors to get this done - screw to the left of the middle, and the 3 on the chrome L. Power cable, DVI connector, and White ribbon like cable both ends.

2. The silver plate is more Chrome and is indeed in the lower right. It is somewhat L in shape laying down to the left. So take an L and knock it over to the left and you have the shape.

3. The White cord is a white DVI connector, the one connecting to the input assembly is the one to take off. (where you plug in your components, S-Vid, etc.).

4. The Other cord (the ont that goes to the left) to remove is a 2 fer - It is a ribbon like cable about an inch accross on the top and by the blue and gray cable.

5. When it is hard to pull out the culprets are metal tabs to the left, push the plate to the side to allow black bezel to pass and let the little white plastic wire holder break, you don't need it.

5.5 - Put all the rubber in place before putting the new color wheel on and secure all the rubber.

6. When you pull the flat ribbon cable off and then freak out because it is flat metal and there was no loosening, dont worry, just be careful putting the new one back in and pay attention to the way the metal goes and press in a steady motion down slowly and it will ease in there.

7. Replace the lamp at the same time, and when you do and it (lamp) does not fit - the culpret is the two holes above and below the screw. Take a drill and find the closest match and just lightly drill out the holes a little larger - SAMSUNG tells you just to have someone push on the other side of the TV, no way jose. Don't be scared about the 120w next to the P, that is the right lamp.

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

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To answer your question, i had the same thing happen and I contacted best buy and ordered the part for $96.00. Also if you explore the Youtube website there is a video on how to relpace the color wheel your self, it worked for me. Good luck

Posted on Mar 17, 2009

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