Question about Power Acoustik LT-980/2 Car Audio Amplifier

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Red Light I'm thinking of buying this used amp but when I hooked it up to a 12 volt power supply, All I can get is a red light. Any suggestions??? Thanks, Bill

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Power wire is too thin or ground is not conected to bare metal.

Posted on Jul 16, 2008

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How to i find out whats wrong with my bazooka tube i tried to hook it up to a car battery and car stereo out side but wont work ???


follow this steps and fix it. GOd bless you

  • Verify that the amplifier is turning on by looking to see that it is lit up.

  • 2
    Use a voltmeter to verify your power supply is a good 12 volts by touching the ground lead to you amplifier's ground screw and the positive one to the amplifier's constant power supply screw. Also verify that you have 12 volts coming from the remote lead wire which is usually a thin blue wire between the ground and constant 12 volt supply.

  • 3
    Look for the "thermal overload" light. It is usually a red LED on the side of the amp. If the amp feels really warm and this light is lit, the amp has probably overheated from being tuned wrong or turned up too loud and shut itself down to cool off.

  • 4
    Check the fuses on the amplifier. These can blow with extended use or during heavy bursts of use.

  • 5
    Make sure the "Gain" and other volume controls are turned up.

  • 6
    Confirm that the signal wire is still attached to the amplifier and has not come disconnected by vibrations in the car. Also check that the wires running out of the amp to the speakers are still attached to the amp.

Oct 27, 2013 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Fault Light/ inverter failure


the current from the 12volt supply is not sufficient try a fully charged car battery instead, your inverter needs 30 amps and above of current from 12 volt power supply

Jul 20, 2013 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

How do you make this work ???? I hooked it up I think and nothing is happening


whatever watt that amp is find a computer power suply that has same or more watts, when you get it you will notice there is a large bundle of wires that go to a 10 pin or more plastic clip. if you look at it with the clip lock facing up, you will see a green wire 4th one in from the left and black ones on both sides of it, bridge the green and the black one directly on the right of it, that is what will turn the power supply on, find your 12 volt and ground on any of the smaller clips, 12 volt is yellow 5 volt is red and ground is black, just hook your remote and power wire to the yellow and ground to ground, i recommend you hook a switch to it so you can turn it off !! and i DO NOT recommend using a power supply with less watts as you amp! nor do i recommend trying a xbox 360 power supply something WILL blow!!

Apr 19, 2013 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

Can i hook it up to a 12 volt plug in my home?


I have been installing car audio for over 40 years.A small adapter like you use to charge a phone,Doe,s not have enough amps in it to run the deck (Properly) When you crank up the vollume, The deck will cut out, You Can buy a bigger 12 Volt power supply from radio shack or the source that will power it (Properly) It should be at least 3 amp output .

Oct 17, 2012 | Pioneer DEH-P4800MP CD Player

1 Answer

The red lightcomes on when i hook up things to it when nothin is hooked up its green


Usually, this indicates an overload condition. I have a Pyramid 35 amp supply that has no green light but uit does have a red light and an irritating little beeper that the instruction book says is activiated when power draw approaches 90% of rated output. (Why not call it a 30 amp supply if you can't use the full 35???) Enough editorializing. You don't say if the supply actually works, just that the light changes color. If it doesn't work at all, I would start with checking the diode bridge for a blown or leaking diode. If one is bad, it can output enough to drive an LED but fail anything else. If these are good, check the filter capacitor. If this is bad, the hum could concievably confuse the regulator circuit. Next, I would check what ever voltage regulator it has in it. I can't comment on specifics as there are many schemes that can be used. My unit, for example, is like a mouse driving an elephant. It has a small 723 regulator IC, (Aprox. 100ma output), controling 4 large TO-3 pass transistors driven by a 36 volt 40 amp transformer to boil it all down to an adjustable 12 to 15 volts.
The bottom line is without knowing if the unit is puting out or not and not having it in my hand to look at, this is the best I can do. I hope it helps.
Good luck.
Jeff

Feb 03, 2011 | Pyramid 10 Amp Power Supply (068888701655)...

1 Answer

During a recent storm our power went out and a family member was on our Gateway 504GR. Since the power came back on, the computer will not turn on. It was plugged into a surge protector and all other items...


Suggest the Power Supply took a 'hit' from the storm. Hopefully this is all that received the power surge.

Surge protectors are a necessary item, but in reality it takes an Expensive surge protector, for defense against a lightning storm, and even that isn't a sure bet.
(Lightning strikes can produce over a Million volts)

Also, I have had three surge protectors where just THAT receptacle was bad.

"Hmmmm, surge protector power on LED is lit. Printer has power, monitor has power, and router has power. Surge protector must be good."

NOT.
Just THE receptacle the computer was plugged into was bad.

Past this test, I would suggest diagnosing the Power Supply.

A) Test the Power Supply voltages

B) Use a KNOWN to be Good, Compatible power supply, for a test unit.

C) Buy a power supply, and replace it.
Granted, not a professional approach, and could result in a waste of money.
Some do approach repair in this manner, however.

Going backwards.

C) The Gateway 504GR desktop computer uses an ATX style of power supply, and is rated at a maximum Wattage rating of 300 Watts.

(ATX case is approximately 6 inches Long, 6 inches Wide, and 3-1/2 inches Tall)

Gateway Support > 504GR desktop computer > Support Documents main page,

http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/3724/4365nv.shtml

If you Left-click on - Components, you will see a list of components used in the 504GR.
Scroll down to the heading - Power Supplies

Left-click on the blue -
102015 - 300 Watt Power Supply, heading.

It's just a generic ATX power supply with a,

1) 24-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

2) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

[ Power for the Intel Pentium 4 processor. Plugs into the motherboard ]

3) (1) SATA power cable

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

[Power for the SATA harddrive ]

4) At least two 4-pin Peripheral power cables,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

[Power for the CD drive, and the DVD drive ]

This is just one example of a decent, reliable, economical Power Supply, that will fit the bill,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1389575&CatId=1078

B) The above explains the minimum Wattage needed for the test unit, the size, and shape of the case, and the needed power cables, in case there is a power supply around to use for a test unit.

(Some have an older unused computer sitting in a closet, or what have you. The computer can be temporarily cannibalized for the power supply)

1) That SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) puts out three DC voltages.

A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts

(Two C cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC)

The test is done for the 12 Volt power rail.
ALL Yellow wires in the various power cables, are 12 Volt wires.
They all go back to one 12 Volt power rail inside the Power Supply.

[Orange insulated wires are 3.3 Volts.
Red wires are 5 Volts ]

11 to 13 Volts indicates a good Power Supply.
Less than 11 Volts means it's time to replace.

You can use a multimeter to check the 12 Volt power rail, or a power supply tester.
One example of a power supply tester,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5250576&CatId=5471

An economical multimeter good enough for this test, can be purchased from $5 to $12.

The Power Supply is unplugged from power.
The Positive (Red) probe lead of the multimeter, is connected to ANY Yellow wire.

The Negative (Black) probe lead is connected to ANY Black wire.

(ALL Black wires are Ground wires. They all go back to one central Ground source inside the PSU.

{Power Supply Unit. Another term for Power Supply. Also another term for the SMPS, used in personal computers)

To reply just Left-click on Comment. (Believe upper right of your page )

Jun 20, 2010 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Power supply suddenly 'dead'


You check the power supply using multimeter. but before everything make sure the you are getting power from the power outlet.

Here is how you can check the power supply with multimeter

If the wall outlet and the power cord are good, make sure the connection at the motherboard is secure. Then you may have to face the fact that the power supply itself is bad. If you have a multimeter, you can test the power supply output before purchasing a new one. Simply follow these steps:
  1. Turn off the PC, but do not unplug it. Open the system unit. Set the multimeter to read DC volts in the next range higher than 12 volts. Locate a power connector similar to the hard drive (or CD-ROM drive connector that is unused) and turn on the PC.
  2. You can also unplug a drive connector and use it. Turn on the PC and insert the BLACK probe into the power connector on one of the BLACK wires. Touch the RED probe to the YELLOW wire on the power connector.
  3. The multimeter reading should be +12 volts. Now touch the RED probe to the RED wire and the reading should be +5 volts. If no readings or different readings occurred, you’ll have to replace the power supply. If the readings were correct, you should check the P8 or P9 connectors at the motherboard. These connectors may also be named P4 and P5. To check these connectors, perform the following:
    • Insert the BLACK probe into P8 at one of the BLACK wires. Insert the RED probe into the P8 connector at the RED wire. The reading on the multimeter should be +5 volts.
    • Check the power going to the motherboard connections by inserting the RED probe into P8 at the YELLOW wire and you should get +12 volts. Leave the BLACK wire touching the BLACK wire at the P8 connector. Check the BLUE wire and the reading should be a -12 volts.
    • Now move the BLACK probe to the BLACK wire on the P9 connector. Test the WHITE wire by inserting the RED probe and the reading should be -5 volts. Check the RED wires on the P9 connector and you should get +5 volts on each red wire. You won’t get exactly 5 or 12 volts, but the readings will be very close, such as 5.02 volts.
    • If the Power Supply is a couple of volts off in either direction, such as when the RED wire should be reading -5 volts but it reads -8 volts, or if there are no readings, replace the power supply.

Mar 22, 2009 | Computers & Internet

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