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There is no color wheel. This is an SXRD TV. If you have 389 at the ballast, then your ballast is bad. 5 flashes is a bad lamp driver. No TTL signal return to the mainboard. Put a new ballast in. Do not try and measure ballast output without good high voltage gear. The startup pulse is close to 20,000 volts.
lamp uses 100 volts or more it does not use 12 volts thats the fans voltage ya problem is the color wheel its not spinning due to worn out in turn not triggering the ballast that turns on the lamp replace the color wheel if ok replace the lamp
I'm pulling up a link while typing; the device is a fixed voltage regulator with some DC input voltage applied, ground (chassis common) and an output of a stable 9 volts DC.These are generally referred to as '3-terminal' regulators.There won't be any significant AC on any pin if operating normally.
You can get the data sheet as a .pdf file here:
You probably have Adobe Reader which you will need to open the file.
The term 'low saturation' refers to the range of DC it requires to regulate as intended; early ICs of this design needed more 'headroom' to enter into the region of stable regulation.
Looking at the marked side, the #1 pin is to the left; #3 to the right.
#2, the center pin is grounded to common (chassis) and if you measure resistance from #2 to any point attached to the broadest traces you can see on the solder-side of the board, it should read close to 0 Ohms (power off for this measurement!).
Measuring resistance on these parts won't yield much unless the part is shorted, a pretty uncommon condition and one that is not as easy to predict as one could with a diode or transistor.
The input lead is #1 and should be well above 9 volts DC if measured to the center pin; the output lead, #3 should have ~9 volts DC referenced as before to the center pin or chassis common.
Any AC you measure on any pin is meaningless, just noise.
I think you will find the part OK since these regulators are quite reliable when used in sensibly designed circuits.
Hello Brandon B,
look on the side of the unit there will be a sticker with Model number, serial number and Version code. The version code will tell me what color wheel you need. There maybe some CCA adjustment you need to do using the remote in Service mode. Let me know what the version number. We will go from there. You can contact www.interactiverepair.com they will walk you through the installation process
Brandon. Locate CN110 on the DMD its a wire plug. Pin 2 is gorund pin 4 is voltage for the color wheel. When the color wheel is off pin 4 should have 5V on it when power is pressed it should have 7v for the color wheel to start. If the voltages on pin 4 is 5V your DM is ok and Color wheel would be indicated as faulty, But if pin 4 is anything less than 5V its the DM which is faulty.
Hello Brandon B Must say you have done more than what most people are willing to do. Great job. You have only one problem. Your lamp need changing. Thats it. This unit carries two type of lamp. Look at the right side of the cabinet for the lamp code
List price $150 Part Number: BP96-00826A
LAMP 120W( L3 TYPE , VERSION PW03, PL02 UNITS
BP96-00224J LAMP ASSY (PHILLIP) VERSION 0001 UNITS
Hello Brandon B Great Job at trying to fix your own TV.....Bravo!! Ok, you may very well have a bad Color wheel. You have already change your Ballast and Lamp. The lamp would have been my first step. If you have a defective color this will surely cause the set not to come on. The DM board detects what going on with the color wheel and will not start the lamp. There are 2 types of color wheel listed for this TV.
List price $100 BP96-00674A COLOR WHEEL (FOR TYPE L3 VERSION PW03 UNITS)
List price $100 BP96-01103A COLOR WHEEL FOR TYPE L6 VERSION PU01 UNITS