I had the same problem. You need to first remove the base plate; then remove a long thin plate which runs along the side on top of the elements. Having done this, remove the electrical elements from the element, then remove the screw and nut which is holding the element on to some form of linkage. The element should then slide out and you can slide the replacement in. Then re-attach all the screws and nuts. The entire task is a very slow job. If you don't have tiny spanners, which I didn't, a long-nosed pair of pliers is useful. Hope this helps.
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I did some work recently on a free-standing electric range.
The broiler element was heating up just a little. It was not getting red hot.
The range was practically new.
I discovered the crimp-on spade terminals to the broiler element had lost their springiness and were not making good contact with the element terminals. The ends of the wires going to the broiler element also showed signs of excess heating due to resistive contacts.
I bought a pack of new, high temperature crimp terminals at the appliance parts store, stripped the wires, and crimped the terminals on.
The original crimp terminals were right-angle. The new crimp terminals are straight. I didn't have a specialized tool for right-angle crimps. The straight crimps worked fine.
Just make sure there's plenty of clearance between the rear cover and the wires coming off the crimps to the Calrod.
Broil element now works great.
By the way, other ranges I've worked on use screw-on terminals instead of press-fit spade terminals. Not sure if press-fit spade terminals hold up after many years of service.
Maybe if an emergency repair needs to be done, could try drilling a hole carefully through the assembled spade terminal and putting in a 4-40 screw to recover the contact without having to buy replacement terminals.
Either an electrical connection to the heater element is broken, or the element itself has become malfunctional. You'd have to dis-assemble the machine to inspect what exactly is the problem, then replace any non-functioning parts.
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the new version has a plastic cover over element wires its best just to change all elements to solve this if you have had this toaster a wile the old elements dont have it,,,make sure its correct ones fitted as they are all different watts ..
FUEL INJECTED ENGINES
The fuel filter on fuel injected vehicles may be located in one of two locations. On all 1976–79 vehicles except the Seville, the filter is mounted in the engine compartment near the fuel pump. On the 1976–79 Seville, and all 1980–85 vehicles, the fuel filter is located on the left side of the chassis just ahead of the rear axle. On 1986–89 vehicles, the filter can be found near the frame, in back of the left front wheel. There are two types of fuel filters used on the gasoline fuel injected vehicles, the one-piece disposable inline filter, used on all 1982–86 250 and 1988–89 273 V8 engines, and the replaceable element type filter used on all the other engines.
CAUTION Fuel is under high pressure: if the steps below are not followed, the fuel could spray out and result in a fire hazard and possible injury.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Release the pressure from the fuel system:
Without pressure fitting: Cars without a pressure fitting in the fuel line, cover the fitting to be removed with a shop towel while loosening so that fuel will be absorbed. Dispose of gasoline properly.
With pressure fitting: Locate the pressure fitting in the fuel line and remove the protective cap. Loosely install a special valve depressor (G.M. tool no. J-5420) on the fitting. Wrap a towel around the fitting to block any spray and slowly tighten the tool until the pressure has been relieved.
Replace the filter as follows:
On the replaceable element type filter; the fuel filter element is replaced by unscrewing the bottom cover and removing the filter element. Replace the element and gasket with an AC type GF 157 or equivalent. Hand tighten the bottom cover.
On the in-line disposable type filter; the fuel filter canister is replaced by loosening the fitting on the end of the filter, then use a pair of pliers to expand the clamp on the other end and slide it down past the point where the hose extends over the inlet of the filter. Gently twist and remove the hose, unscrew and remove the fitting. Remove and discard the old filter. Install the new filter into the hose and replace the clamp. Reinstall the fitting, and check for leaks with the engine idling.
NOTE: A dry fuel system on cars equipped with EFI/DFI may require a substantial cranking period before starting. Be sure to crank the engine in short bursts, allowing time for the starter motor to cool between each burst.
Fig. 1: Fuel filter location, disposable type — 1986–87 8-250 and 1988–89 8-273 engines
Fig. 2: Fuel filter location, sealed type — 8-250 and 8-273 engines
Fig. 3: Common fuel filter location — lower right corner
Fig. 4: Removing the fuel filter hose clamp
Fig. 5: Removing fuel filter lines — always use a back-up wrench
Fig. 6: Removing fuel filter mounting
sounds like you have the wrong sw . do not install . ck the old # and see it this is a proper replacement . / I did look your sw and it has a blue housing and muilti break of shaft . it should replace a standard sw but not the dual element . re ck where you purchase to make sure is the right one .. mm
You need a meter, it will be hard without this! If you have 220v in the wall, then think of it like this; each wire is 120v. Test to each other, you get 220v. The thermostat is a double pole, you said. So think of it like this, its an adjustable temperature controlled switch that lets electricity through at the temp. you set it at. If you have 120v from one wire connected to one end of the element, and the other 120v connected to the other end of the element, then it will work. DO NOT CONNECT THE 120V TOGETHER. IT MUST GO THROUGH THE ELEMENT FIRST. The thermostat should be between the power from the wall and the element, to control the temperature.