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Re: how to wire the switch
It doesnt really matter on tehse machines as thay are double pole switches ( I think) so the switch operates against both terminals. I usally put live (brown) into pos 1 and neutral (blue) into pos 2. Like I say it shouldn't matter on this machine, but if the pad does spin the wrong way when you start the tool, just turn it off, unplug and switch the wires around. It's only really the older machines and those with reverse switches that are polarity sensitive.
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...Jon sounds like broken cable in side the wire its self usually were the cable joins to the handle its self if u move the cable about u will b able to check this out wihlst running it .. i had this on mine i cut out the bad bit and re wired the it been fine now 1 1/2 years now
Its almost without a doubt your brushes or a broken wire inside the cable, Usually a broken wire near where it enters the machine, Some times it can be caused by a dirty switch which will need replacing, does it have an electronic speed control? if so these give a lot of trouble and not worth replacing but it sounds simple enough? Try switching it on and flexing the cable near where it enters the machine, If it works now and again its a break in the cable,Hope this helps,
Without any mapped directions, I studied the parts for awhile, then decided first to remove the two plugs from the two side prongs, and then push the big square handle down over those protrusions. Guessing, I used the long square wrench to plug one of the the two packaged square-holeplugs deep inside one of the handle holes and tighten with such. On the other handle hole I screwed in the short 'stick' handle (save the other small square plug).I figured if you unscrew the rounded cap screw from the main shaft, then flip the backer plate upside down, it will fit over the shaft. To assist in positioning the backer plate over the shaft, there is a small black push-in- realease button on the top of the polisher that allows you to put the plate SQUARELY and securely over the shaft, then release it to allow free motion. Then replace that big cap screw and tighten it using the special "spanner" tool (as it is called in the 'parts-to-order' page). Finally simply tie the wool bonnet around and knot together the stringpulls.Alternately, remove that backerplate (in reverse steps as stated) and instead attach the 'velcro' backerplate by easily screwing that onto the shaft instead of the bigger cap screw that held on that other backplate.Note: there is a 'speed setting' ( adjust it to 1 "low" ) before plugging in the electric and turn the switch on.
Hi, Unfortunately there is no external test, It has to be opened and troubleshot with a multimeter. Especially something with a variable speed controller, power cord, brushes, switches, ect. It could be several things. If you are technical enough to take it apart let us know we will try to help. Good Luck to you!
Hi hope to help
Have you tried this unplug the machine! then cut the cable about 6" from the machine then strip the machine and rewire the long length of cable back to the switch. The 6" that has been cut from the machine discard it.
The problem i used to get is where the cable is clamped in the handle the wire inside the insulation cracks so that when the machine is in one position is ok but then when is moved it goes off again.
It also could be the field coil (part of the motor) if it gets hot then cuts out the field could be braking down!!!
hope this helps.