Question about Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

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RE: Hobart A-200 Motor Direction

I went ahead and bought a new capacitor and relay, I picked them up today. The capacitor looks pretty much the same, the relay has obviously changed over the years. Its bulkier and has one extra contact! Not exaclty sure how to wire it. Its labeling and numbering are also different. Any thoughts?

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I'm not much help telling you how to wire it w/o seeing it. But, most relays have a tiny diagram drawn on the side. If you take some time, these drawings are usually helpful.

Sorry, that's all I got. Mike

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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What is a good source for a reasonably priced 200-240V 2.7 HP switched reluctance motor found on Hobart's HL600 mixers?


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I think... without knowing that motor... that the capacitor is a start capacitor, and that the start switch may be trying to "start" the motor full-time instead of switching it out of circuit after it figures that the motor has spun up. I may be wrong - that design may be a capacitor-run motor (similar to a three-phase motor) - but I'm betting it's a start-only capacitor.

If you know someone with a capacitance meter, you could check the capacitor - for both capacitance (to be sure it matches the label) and leakage. Easy way to write that one off. Alternatively, you could rig it such that after the motor's wound up you could manually disconnect the capacitor and see what happens - either the motor stops or else the smoking issue stops.

Whatever you do, don't let it smoke very long. The varnish on the windings is only so thick.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

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1 Answer

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Greg,email the pics--there is a oil/grease flinger that can be installed if the model is right.I need the serial #,ml #.

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2 Answers

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No, do not swap hot and N.

First, verify rotation. As the attachment shaft rotates, it should push the engagement pin into the keeper slot. Looking down on top of the mixer, the planetary should rotate clockwise.

If the unit runs backwards, does it start slow? Can you get it to run either way by giving it a push start before turning on the power? If so, your start switch is not working properly. (Which is my guess) Check your capacitor.

There is mechanical and electronic start switches. (Metal arms and a contact or a little gold rectangular metal can.)

Check it out and let me know what you find -- Mike

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2 Answers

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If the motor runs and when under a load the planetary stops its not the motor.You either have a sheared key or broken gear in the transmission.

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