The problem was the lint passage way by the motor was three quarters plugged with lint , that caused the thermal protection fuse to blow , with meant it would not turn on the gas , cleaned every thing up , replaced fuse , working like brand new , please enter this where it can be viewed for free , thank you
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I'm sure that you read the directions and you are holding the button for a full minute.
1) Try blowing it out with a hair dryer. Dust does lots of weird things to gas heaters.
2) There is a thermocouple that opens when it is hot and makes the gas keep flowing. It is a small metal tube that sits directly in the flame. When it heats up, the gas flows. If that is shot, then it won't keep the gas flowing, so it will turn off when you let go of the button. Try tapping it lightly with the tip of a screwdriver to knock it loose. There is about a 10% chance that this might fix it temporarily until you can get a new one.
I think you'll find that a hard copy of a manual for an obscure brand that old will be impossible to find.....However.....the GOOD thing is units that old are very simple to troubleshoot and repair.
If there are no obvious external damages, and it is set up for the gas you are using, i.e. natural gas or propane.... turn on the gas and leak test the connections. If good, twist the control knob to the pilot position and light the pilot light. If it holds in after 45 seconds, good, turn the gas knob to the on position and adjust the thermostat to a setting above room temperature and observe operation. If the pilot goes out, replace the thermocouple. Around 40 years ago most small units still utilized thermocouples and not electronic ignition.
The flames should have two blue cones...an inner darker cone enclosed in a larger, softer outer lighter blue cone with an occasional flicker of orange on a few of the flame tips. NO YELLOW !!!! If its on natural gas, there will be air shutters secured by a captive screw on the venturi end of the ribbon burners. Air mixture can be adjusted here to attain the aforementioned dual blue cone flames. If it is on propane, those shutters will either by removed or need to be in the 100% open position.
You really didn't describe a problem, so this should be enough to get you started.....remember if you do not feel comfortable messing with gas or electric and are unsure of your level of expertise, or of your mechanical ability it is best to leave gas and electric problems with a gas fired appliance to a professional service man.
OK, I think the flame thing may be an igniter. So the inducer turns on, the igniter glows but the gas valve does not open so there is no ignition. Sounds like you may have either a bad gas valve or a bad circuit board. You will need to check for 24 volts at the gas valve. If you get voltage but no ignition, replace gas valve. If you get no voltage at gas valve, replace the circuit board.
The click noise you hear is the magnet inside the valve dropping out. Which means, the voltage that energizes it is low or interupted. Possible, weak pilot flame, bad thermocouple or bad secondary limit switch. This limit switch is located left of the main control. made of ceramic. It can also be a bad gas valve...
You might have a slight odor of gas when the burner first ignites. Some gas does escape before it completely ignites. It shouldn't smell after 2 years of use. If you can see the pilot flame burning from the top of the heater, the heater pilot assembly is pushed over too far. The pilot fumes could be escaping in the room and cause a smell.
I'm not a furnace technician. But I have worked on several Coleman trailer furnaces. So keep in mind that my terminology might not be exactly correct. But I think I can help you.
I don't know what model you are running, but most of them run pretty much the same. You have a four basic components to check. Thermostat; Ignition Control Module; Pressure Switch; and which ever of the following that you have (Glow plug, Electronic ignition, Pilot Light).
I'm assuming that you are referring to the blower as the "Rat wheel blower" (round wheel looking thing with fins on it). If my assumption is correct and if the power from the breaker box to the furnace junction box (Probably with a on and off switch on top or side), than when you give it power (from breaker box and turn thermostat up) the fan (not blower) comes on. If it doesn't there is a probably a problem with your Thermostat or Ignition Module. If it does come on and your glow plug or you igniter tries to work. Than yes, you are correct, you have to have gas pressure to let the pressure switch know that there is adequate gas supply pressure (gas- 5 to 7 W.C, propane 11 to 13 W.C). The reason for this is if the Pressure Switch doesn't feel the correct pressure. It thinks you have a leak and won't release gas for ignition. After you turn the gas on. If the furnace doesn't ignite. Make sure the Thermostat is definitely wired properly. Now we are down to one of three problems. If the Glow Plug, Electronic Ignition, or pilot light are working properly. Than we are down one of two problems. The Ignition Module or Pressure Switch. Check pressure on the Pressure Switch. If yuou don't smell gas it is probably OK. But it is best if you use a manometer. I have rarely found Pressure Switches bad. Normally if I get to that step. It is the Ignition Module. The Ignition Module kind of like the brain of the furnace. It is located behind one of your front panels. It will have approximately 10 wires going to it. Some will be going to the Thermostat, some to the Glow plug (Igniter), some to the Pressure Switch, and some going to the blower.
I have probably said more than you need to know. If I did I apologize. But to wrap it up. You were probably correct. You definitely need gas for the blower to kick on. The furnace has to light and heat up before the blower will Start. Not to keep rattling, but to check to see if the blower motor will run. Is to switch the Thermostat from "auto" to "run".