Question about LG LRE30755ST Kitchen Range
Lg Range Model #LRE30451S. IS ONLY 13 MONTHS OLD. LG WON'T REPAIR. ANY IDEAS HOW TO FIX IT.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello- Control has failed. Replacement boards are available. Need complete model # to chk on part. Not too difficult to replace. Let me know if this info helps and if you need more- Thanks- ED
Posted on Mar 03, 2010
The plastic shaft on the knobs split and loosen. I have the solution for that, but I need one metal insert that goes over the gas valve shaft and into the knob. For those that have the split knobs. This a bit of work but it works great. Remove the two screws from the back of each knob. Go to a hardware store and find the thin brass tubing that most have. Pick the tube that just about fits over the plastic shaft. It will fit over the tip but will not slide down the shaft all the way. Now pick a brass washer that the tube almost fits into. (You have to do a bit of tooling on both the washer and the plastic shafts. What you will end up with is a brass tube soldered to the washer that fits over the plastic shaft and is screwed to the metal insert in the knob from the inside. First take the tube and file across the top of the tube to make teeth. Now slide the cutter tube down each shaft while rotating it. This cuts the shaft to exactley fit the tube. Drill the washer to also exactly fit tube and cut or file the washer to fit into the knob at the bottom of the shaft. Cut the tubes to length, press fit them into each washer (this should be very tight and solder each washer to the tubes. Place the soldered unit on to the plastic shaft of the knob. Drill two number 4/40 size screw holes into the washer. One on each side of the shaft. Just start the drill into the metal insert. Do not drill through now. Remove the metal insert. (take a small screw driver and put it into the space on either side of the metal part of the knob. Not between the metal and the plastic knob though. that may break the plastic. The metal insert comes out fairly easy. Once it is out finish drilling the holes with a 4/40 tap drill. Tap the drilled hole with a 4/40 tap to make threads. Screw the tube and washer assembly to the metal insert. The screws should be flush with the back of the metal insert. Place the metal insert back in the knob. You now have a sleeved knob that will never break again. This is how it should have been made in the first place. I did this in a few hours on a Sunday afternoon. The parts including the 4/40 drill and tape were about $13. It is not as hard as it reads. LG has a quality issue, but does not want to step up to it.
Posted on Aug 29, 2010
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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