Question about Waring WMK300 Professional Belgian Waffle Maker

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Broken Piece My wife put the waffle iron behind the seat in our van, when I moved the seat back, it broke the plastic piece inside the end pivot point where the power chord comes up through the waffle maker. I guess this is the part that the waffle maker rotates on. Can I get a replacement part and repair it myself if so where? If not where is the service center?

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  • hagsmich Jun 24, 2008

    I contacted Waring for assistance with the broken part, what a bunch of jackasses. They will only fix it if it's under warranty and they won't sell you parts. I took it apart and used super glue and epoxy putty to fix it. Now it works fine and it's probably better than the original. Way to support your product Waring. Next time I will buy a waffle maker from another company that actually supports their products.



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Waring is a rip off

Posted on Oct 29, 2008


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The support pillar at the clamshell end loosened. When I looked at it closely the plastic bracket that holds the pillar to the base is broken in half. Where can I get a replacement. (Not available on the...

The only way to get this part is from another broken unit.

If it were me, I'd try using an epoxy in combination with something to act as a splint, like a piece of Popsicle stick or a piece of metal, positioned inside the bracket. The bottom of the unit can be easily removed -8 screws, 4 under the feet.

I got my WMK300 at a local Goodwill store for $5. It worked fine for a few months before the temperature sensor fuse needed to be replaced ($2/4 at eBay).

Feb 23, 2014 | Waring WMK300 Professional Belgian Waffle...

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How to replace fuse in a waring pro waffle maker

The fuse is inside, clamped to the bottom iron.

Swing the top open. There are 4 small screws, two metric M3 flatheads in the front pivot, two self tapping near the hinge, that hold the bottom iron in place.

Often the M3 screws will become fused to the captive nuts. Using the correct size cross-point screwdriver, position it in one of the pivot end screws, and while holding it firmly directly in line with the screw, give the screwdriver a sharp tap on the end of the handle, as if it were a chisel. Repeat with the other front pivot screw.

If the screw does not unscrew with a minimum of force, repeat the tapping procedure. If this does not work, use a 1/8" metal bit to drill through the screw heads. Remove the rear screws.

There is a spring-loaded pin running through the front pivot halves. Press it in and carefully swing the bottom grid upward. Turn the iron upside down. At the rear of the irons, you'll see where the wires enter from the rear support. Find the metal clip holding down a piece of white rubbery tubing. Remove the screw and clip. The temperature-limiting fusible link is inside the tubing.

Push the tubing toward one side until the wire crimp is seen. On the fuse side of each crimp,AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CRIMP, clip the lead. Remove the tubing and clip the other lead.

Take two uninsulated crimp-style spade lugs for 20 ga wire, and clip off the spade ends. The crimp ends will be your new crimp connector.

From the iron's leds, remove the old crimps. Strip just enough jacket for the exposed wire ends to match the length of the new crimp connectors.

Take the stripped lead that is toward the iron's terminal, insert into a crimp connector. Insert one end of the new fuse in the other end so the overlapping leads each just reach the opposite end of the connector. Crimp in place.

Slide the tubing over the fuse and push it toward the iron. (The loom tubing on the other wires will compress to permit this).

Connect the other end of the new fuse to the remaining stripped wire with the second crimp connector.

If you had to drill out the M3 screws (I did), use a vice grip wrench to grasp the remaining shaft with as little compression as possible and remove. The threads of the captive nuts should be ok. Replace the screws with M3 flat head crosshead screws and antiseize compound of the threads.

1. The most common reason for thermal fuse failure is running the iron empty with the top raised.
2. I got replacement fuses via ebay 4/$2, M3 screws at Ace Hardware @$0.19.
3. All the wires inside the iron are insulated with high temperature silicone or non-melting jackets. Stripping requires an electricians stripper/crimper with a 20-22 ga cutter. More force is needed to strip these wires than you might expect. You'll find it much easier if you hold the wire being stripped with a pliers while stripping.

Feb 17, 2014 | Waring WMK300 Professional Belgian Waffle...

1 Answer

The pivot point on the seats has broken on several

You could try "Mighty Putty" if you still have the pieces it works well to hold things together and is very strong.

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Need model makc & serial number to give any kind of help.

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NO PARTS MADE , rebaged cheep made unit from china . call home shopping and tell them , it broke , not that you dropped it . you might get a discount or something , your not the only one with problems with this waffle maker !

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I made a template of the shaft, cut out a sturdy piece of tin to straddle the break, and then screwed that piece in at both ends after securely fitting the break together. A lot of work, but the waffle maker works great!

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Bought a new car seat

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Broken plastic Hinge clips

you could try a lumber/electrical store, or from the manufacturer.

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Cuisinart Classic Round Waffle Iron

The screw that holds the metal cover to the grid is hidden under the black Cuisinart piece on the top. There are 4 ears which lock it down. I'm not sure the best way to get them open, as I broke mine opening it. Looks like if you take a metal putty knife, and push toward the hinge from the handle, at the end of the radius at each side, it may pop off for you. The other two are about 3/4" off the back of the piece, and should get out of the way as you lift the front.

Now, does anyone know where to get a replacement black cuisinart piece?

Proceed at your own risk, this information is worth what you paid for it, and I broke mine in the process.

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